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SolderMaster

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Everything posted by SolderMaster

  1. Anyone have a link to where you can get a "split rivet" tool? Also called "Bi-furcated rivet. I can find the rivets, but having an issue finding the tool.
  2. I could be wrong, but the screws on the ears should be slotted and not Philips. Other than that, your armor looks really nice!
  3. No! I just couldn't tell from the pics if the rivets were the right ones and if the sniper plate was glued or not. Centurion is only a few clicks away! Great work Eric! Congrats on your new rank of Expert Infantry!!!
  4. Yup, I agree with gazmosis, hike up the shoulder bells, (shorten your strapping) and I would email Rob about getting replacement thigh ammo box and new sniper plate....for Centurion, that is. Glue the sniper plate and get the correct split rivets or brads for the ammo box... That's what I'm doing. That and either paint or get the "painted" decals from Trooperbay for your lid. Also get the correct "S" trim, White elastic to hold down your shoulder straps, White elastic to connect chest and back, and when you get the $$ grab a Hyperfirm, or get a scratch-built or all resin E-11. That's about all you and I both need. Only I have the Hyperfirm already.... Looking great fellow RT-MOD trooper!!!
  5. Thanks Mason, This is an ATA kit. In the CRL, it doesnt specify. I saw a thread with a purposed CRL that says "no finishing strips" and wasnt sure if it got approved or not.
  6. Does the TKC need to have finishing strips like in the ANH fashion, or is the armor over-lapped while assembling?
  7. To get Centurion, do we need/ or can we use ANH finishing strips? For the forearms, bicepts, shins, and thighs.
  8. Very true, but during some events where I am either handing out candy, cards, nerf guns, etc...it would be nice to NOT look like a monkey doing something awful to a football...if you're pickin up what I'm throwin down.
  9. Hey folks, Has anyone done any mods to their holster to get the opening to "stay" open making it easier to put your weapon in? I know the FX holster was made from a thicker grade leather and was always "open". Who here has modded theirs and could you please post some pictures. I have bought some thicker leather and supplies to dye it, rivet it, etc. Though, it may be some time before I get to making one. Thanks in advance!
  10. Thanks Brian! Where have I been?...sheeesh
  11. Hmmmm....where's OUR Facebook page?
  12. OK GREAT....Thanks to Joey, I just shorted out my keyboard...typing on a replacement...damn DROOL!!!! FANTASTIC ARMOR!!!! You look "ok" in it...lol
  13. If you want my two cents, I have an RT-Mod suit and helmet. If I were to do it again, I would have gotton the RT suit, but I would have gone with one of the TE derived lids. The 2 things that bother me about the RT lid, is #1, the frown is flat rather than "bumpy", and #2, the cap and back is two pieces. Everytime I see an FX lid while trooping, I just think, man...I wish I had the funds to give that trooper a proper bucket....Same with the MR bucket...ewwww...... Sorry troopers....just an opinion.
  14. Might I suggest either some Under Armour Cold Gear or Under Armour Cold Gear and a dive skin for cold weather games? I think your suit will "Pop" alot more if your black under suit isnt all bunchy. Your suits of Ohio State Buckeyes are freaking awesome!!! Great work on those things!
  15. Julie is right, butt-seam with finishing strips is the way to go. And...I'll have to go find the thread, but I think I used Blue Angel Blue for my ab buttons...I'll go get that link... Here it is... http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8117
  16. Tyler, If you like, I can help with the butt joints. GOSH, I wish I had done mine that way....instead I added finishing strips over the over-lapped joint. I sent you a PM with my phone number. You will be much happier with the overall look of your armor with butt-joints and finishing strips...IMHO Also, most of the armor makers out there...guys/gals correct me if I'm wrong,....have the raised area where the armor gets put together....the trick is, measuring twice and cutting once the amount of plastic from the edge to leave you with approx. 20mm for the shins and thighs, and 15mm for the bicepts and forearms. I can't stress enough, once done, your armor will look 100 times better.
  17. Dan, don't forget to check out other armor type build threads....find ones where the troopers are close to your size...then see what armor they are building. You may find that some are your size and are building ATA, AP, TM, etc. This is not to discredit AM, but if you can get more accurate armor that can be made to fit you...why not? Just sayin'.
  18. It's been about 18 months of trooping with my modded Hyperfirm, been dropped ummteen times....nothing has broken off. I think it's safe to say, all the mods I did were rock solid.
  19. Might I suggest, being an RT MOD suit owner myself, to use the butt joints with finishing strips for the shins, thighs, bicepts, and forearms. Trust me, it will look so much better. When I built mine, I used the over-lapping joints and put a finishing strip over the over-lapped joint. I would have been much happier with the butt joints. Just my two HUGE cents. Congrats on your new armor!!! Have a blast with your build. I know I did! Here's the link for my RT-MOD build thread. It might help ya. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=10006&hl=soldermaster%26%2339%3Bs&fromsearch=1
  20. This is from the email I received.... These are our newly re-designed boots, they are slightly taller which will help in keeping the boot tucked inside the armor and feature a more rounded, correct toe. I think you’ll be very happy. PP sent for my second pair.
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