SolderMaster

Here's where I put mine and it has been there for over 3 years...no problems! Of course, the black strapping has since been replaced with white....just sayin'!

Here's how I modified my Hyperfirm. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11159-howto-get-your-hyperfirm-soldermastered/

WARNING.....Hyjack in progress.... What type of blaster is that??? Love the bright LED!

I would think most of the problems with the iComm PTT comes from either moisture in the switch or bad wiring. Also, I remember someone having a bad iComm box on here. Jim is a stand-up guy and will help in any way he can with your problem. It may be as easy as swapping out the wire from the switch to the box, or replacing just the switch. If it's similar to the switch shown here: --------- ...Then I would look at the wires that are soldered to it. Are the pins/exposed wires touching when pressed? Again, Jim will take good care of you. I'm just offering up what I know about electronics issues.

Lid looks great, Bob! Now, let's hope your AP armor comes soon so we can get to buildin'!!

Your fans may have a high decible level. What are you running? Evilboys? Those should be good and quiet. If you're running a 12V blower fan with 12 Volts, it's going to loud. I would switch to either 9 volts or 6 Volts to quiet them down. I'll be offering 5V 35x35x10mm fan kits shortly if you would want to swap them out.

Damn, Vern is good!

No one is going to see your strapping. IMO make it comfy and durable. I use elastic belting and tandy snaps. That way, I have some wiggle room and I don't pop snaps when moving around or running after kids!

Has anyone attempted to install lights and sound into a Hyperfirm DLT-19? I'm thinking about trying it. At least the muzzle flash and sound.

I believe my XO has that job now. He says he has to clean up the CRLs. I'll have him start with the TK. Maybe as early as this weekend. I'll see what I can do.

I have found that Goo Gone works pretty well and does not harn the armor.

I saw that some glue can warp the plastic. Does this happen with most glue? The only way that I know of where glue warps the pastic is if you're using a 2 part epoxy. Most of the 2 part epoxies, when you mix them together creates a chemical reaction, causing heat, which can warp or even melt the pastic. Does it depend on how much you use? Yes. How can you avoid this? Don't use gobs of glue. With E-6000 you do not have to worry about the glue heating up as it's only a 1 part glue. Does E6000 stick as well to PVC as it does with ABS?Yes. It's works well on just about anything. How much glue do I use when gluing certain pieces? Really depends on what you're gluing. Sand the area you want to glue, remove dust/debris, apply E-6000, wait 5 minutes, join the 2 pieces. Clamp with magnets, clamps, etc. How do I know I'm using the correct amount? With E-6000, I normally use a generous amount so that the glue squeezes out a bit when clamped. When it is dry, it's really easy to remove the excess. How long should I wait for the glue to cure? For best results, let it cure over night. PATIENCE!!! Better yet, how long do I have before it is "too late" to redo my glued mistake? It's really never too late with E-6000. The glue stays "pliable". You can, if you're careful, take apart armor months or even years later. IMO Does anyone know of any tutorial videos that show people gluing certain parts of the armor? I don't know of any...YET. But I'm sure someone will have something somewhere.

My bad and sorry about your knuckle. I think I have shed blood on every armor set I have helped build...comes with the territory..lol You know, when I first read that this was a Rubies I automatically thought...."oh, no". But you are really doing a great job fixing it up. Impressive!

FYI, you have the sniper plate and the thigh ammo box on the wrong legs.

Wow, Bennett. That was about $6000 worth of money wasted....Oh and I'll NEVER get that 30 seconds of my life back...thank you. :laugh1:

Is that an FX bucket??

That's just battle damage!! So your blaster took some shrapnel...big deal.

Kevin, Kevin, Kevin...lol I would, and this is just me, remove ALL of the strapping and throw it away. Hit JoAnn Fabrics for some 1", 1.5", and 2" black elastic belting. Also pick up some 2" white elastic belting for the shoulder straps and 1/2" white elastic for the drop boxes. Grab some Tandy snaps and some ABS sheets from a hobby store to make snap plates. Remove the Velcro off of your sniper plate and glue that bad boy on with some E6000. Then go here : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/6372-index-of-all-tutorials/ and any questions you have about how to do anything should be in there. Any other questions not covered there, post here.

I can't remember...but were these acceptable along with the Chelsea and johdpurs? Bass Amsterdams ----------

My thoughts EXACTLY! I was going to order another pair too. Might be time to buy a pair of Chelsea's and paint/dye them white.

http://tkboots.com/ They looking for a new supllier...gonna be a wait for new troopers.

I have 2 fans in my bucket. One is a 12V 50mmX50mmX20mm blower that i have Velcroed to the left Hovi mic area blowing up across my face. The other is a smaller 5V 25mm X 25mm X 10mm blower that I have mounted to the right side on my welder's shield which blows across the lens. The 50mm X 50mm X 20mm blower can operate off of 12V, (2 AA battery packs wired in series), 9V (not much battery life), or 6V (1 AA battery pack). I use the 12V setup for things like parades in the summer time as the noise level is pretty high. I use the 6V setup for indoor events. Much more quiet. The 25mm X 25mm X 10mm fan runs off of one 3 AAA battery box and last forever. All fans and battery boxes are Velcroed so it makes swapping them in and out easy. Large Fan Specs: Delta 50x50x20 mm 5300 RPM DC12V 0.28A Model # BFB0512VHD Small Fan Specs: Sunon MagLev Fan DC5V 0.65W B0503AFB2-8

Nice work, Chris! The only thing I would suggest would be to shorten up your drop box straps. Beautiful job building your armor!! It fits you well!

How long did you have to wait for your armor? Congrats!

I used a 1/16" drill bit to drill through the end cap. Then I used 2 pliers and bent the D-ring so I could slide it into the hole I drilled. Then, bend back with the pair of pliers. DONE