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SolderMaster

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Everything posted by SolderMaster

  1. ...And why do you need photos of the armor interior? Just curious Gaz. For future reference. The CRL doesn't mention interior strapping at all. If it matters here, we should look to have that added to the CRL. Less confusing for new builders. Or old vets who haven't been in the loop in awhile...lol
  2. Hmmm I guess I always assumed they all had them. Of course, I didn't connect my chest to my ab or back to kidney. Makes sense, though. Tom, get that holster trimmed down, you slacker!!!!
  3. Since when? How else do you keep the armor from flapping in the wind?
  4. I have seen this statue, not the same one but one of the series. ANH my butt. The blaster is from ROTJ, buttons are wrong. Looks like a Rubies helmet. Ewww.
  5. The holster looks that way because Tom is so short. It is a Darman holster.
  6. GREAT buy Eric! Mark is awesome and so is his gear. Don't rush and have fun!!!
  7. SolderMaster

    eBay boots

    NO! Get these and paint them using Angelus Leather Paint. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-New-Black-Leather-Twin-Gusset-Low-Rider-Chelsea-Pull-On-Boot-Sizes-8-12-/390546565329?pt=UK_Men_s_Shoes&var=660116653654&hash=item5aee63a8d1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Angelus-Acrylic-Leather-Paint-Dye-Leather-Vinyl-4-Fl-Oz-Free-Ship-USA-/290906153115?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=590123422754&hash=item43bb5ba09b
  8. Photo Bombed by a REAL TK! LOVE IT!
  9. Yes, the soft fuzzy stuff works great to cover sharp or rough spots to keep from tearing up your undersuit and skin. Great job on your TD!
  10. Helmet For 501st approval: Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They may be flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are: black, smoke, dark green, or silver. The body of the "ears" may be black or gray. The bars have three or four bumps and may be left the same color as the body or painted black. The frown must have either 6 or 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable colors are: black, gray or silver. If there are spaces between the teeth the wearer's face must not be seen The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These may be hand painted or decals. There does not need to be the same number per side. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) may be black or silver. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening maybe silver or black. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) may be: hand painted, decals. Acceptable colors are: black or gray. Rear traps and tears may have vertical black lines. Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable): Shoulder Straps For 501st approval: These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. Shoulder Bells For 501st approval: One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Biceps For 501st approval: Biceps are fully closed. Forearms For 501st approval: Forearms must appear to be fully sealed and enclosed. Handplates For 501st approval: Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material but must remain glossy. Gloves For 501st approval: Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable): Chest Plate For 501st approval: Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. Back Plate For 501st approval: Back plate contains a "O II" design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. Under Suit For 501st approval: Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Abdominal Plate For 501st approval: The ab plate has a button area that has 9 gloss black buttons of approximately 7/16" in diameter. Kidney Plate For 501st approval: It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate. Butt Plate For 501st approval: It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should line up below the bottom of the belt with with the ab plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. Belt For 501st approval: Belt face is made of plastic (ammo belt). It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end. Belt proper may be made from glossy black ABS or a similar shiny material and must be 3 to 3.5" wide. Black canvas or similar heavy material may also be used. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is an all black cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with black end caps and a black control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap. Thigh Armor For 501st approval: The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. Shin Armor For 501st approval: The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. Boots For 501st approval: Black leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodphur-type boots or an equivalent style. All stitching must be black, and unnecessary or decorative stitching must not be present. Elvis / Mariachi boots are not acceptable. White, or other color boots may be painted black so long as the boots are maintained to remain the proper color. Holster For 501st approval: Made of black leather or leather-like material. Holster must be worn on the left and be may be attached to the belt from behind with rivets or with loops covering the outside of the belt. Tim, above is the CRL for the Shadow Stormtrooper. Once you receive your armor, review this post and match up the specs with what you have. Just by looking at the helmet photo, it doesn't look too bad. Can't tell if the aerators are grey or silver. You just might be ok. DO NOT RUSH YOUR BUILD. If you run into any snags, PLEASE don't hesitate to post and ask questions, either here or over on the Spec. Ops forums. REMEMBER....We are here to help. Troopers helping troopers!!
  11. Read the first quote, it has the link to where to get REAL armor from. And Tim, PLEASE never fear what the folks here might say. We are all here for the greater good for all prospective members or even just costuming enthusiasts. I would hope that no one would razz you or insult you for what you decide to buy. We may, however, give you options or ideas. We just HATE when folks get ripped off on eBay. Especially when there is sooo much better armor out there. Most often than not, people who buy armor on eBay thinking they got a "great deal", end up spending more money in the long run. Now, let me look over your photos of what you got and see what we can do for you...
  12. Start here. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Stay away from the MR CE and the eFX. way too much work has to go into it to get it legion worthy. Any one of the makers in the above link will serve you well.
  13. You get what you pay for. It surprises me that folks still lurk on eBay trying to save a buck. When in reality, you end up spending more when it's all said and done. And you get either recasted crap or old FX stuff.
  14. Tray, If you look over at Dan's TKC build, he mentions that he had to add about 2 inches to his butt/kidney plate to lose the gap between the Back and Kidney. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18162-thalizar-tkc-wip/page-2 I'll text him and see if he can take a few shots of it and post them here. You may be able to do the same thing to the bottom of the Ab plate...just hide the shim with the belt.
  15. I don't see CTM Props on the list yet. I have seen the kit in person and it looks like a direct recast of ATA....with poor details and interesting ab plate changes. It also has very noticable vacuum pin hole marks where the air was sucked out during the molding process. I'll take some photos the next time the kit is on premisis. https://www.facebook.com
  16. I'm pretty sure this was Darth Aloha's first set of armor...LOLZ!
  17. How do those stairs treat ya? Your armor looks fantastic!! Great job!
  18. E6000 smudges? Rub with your index finger until it comes off...or your thumb.
  19. LOL I just emailed a guy selling one. He asked if the blaster with the Doopy Doos kit was acceptable for 501st impression...here's the email. Hi, I'm selling a Hasbro blaster upgraded with the Doopydoo's skin conversion kit on eBay. I had a question from a potential buyer who asked if this weapon was appropriate for a 501st impression. I had to admit, I didn't know. Could you tell me if this kind of blaster is acceptable? I'd appreciate a swift reply so I can get back to him before the auction ends. Thanks, Mark And my responce... Hi Mark, A Hasbro blaster upgraded with the Doopy Doos kit, is 501st acceptable. However, it is ONLY acceptable for basic approval for the Stormtrooper and it's variants. It is NOT acceptable for Expert or Centurion status. These are detachment based degrees of screen accuracy. Before you take my words and add them to your eBay listing, please send me a picture of the blaster or the link to your auction so I may verify what you are actually selling. Best Regards, Brian Rogers TK-5569 Imperial Stormtrooper Attaché Wisconsin Garrison Member Liason 501st Legion He did send me pictures and it is perfectly fine. Brian, Here are the pictures of my blaster. As you can see, I've gone beyond the basic conversion and added wires from the terminals of the counter box leading to the magazine cylinders as I've seen done on more "professional" jobs. I've also added the six-digit number gauge found on the original E & H counter boxes. Of course, the buyer will want to weather or otherwise customize the blaster personally. I'm also including a couple of targeting reticle decals for the rear "lens" of the scope. What do you think of these photos? Here is the lin-------------- I tried adding the pics here but they don't work, sorry.
  20. ----------- That should keep you busy for a little while...lol Enjoy!
  21. FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!....ok there's not enough !!!!!!!! to go around! Great news! This just means more accurate TKs from now on! LOVE IT! Yup, I'm an elitist....and PROUD of it!
  22. It looks like a Rubies re-cast...yup...just puked in my mouth a little
  23. I have a HUGE problem staying in character. Especially around the little ones. If I see a kid that looks scared or unsure of us, the stormtrooper in me goes right out the window and I become, goofy trooper. It's just how I roll....prolly get Force-choked pretty soon, but..lol I almost always hand over my blaster to kids. Of course, it's at lower profile events, and I have a Hyperdyne Labs upgrade kit in my Hasbro...they love playing with that. Makes their smile get huge for photos.
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