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Thanks very much @Harder @Chemi @gmrhodes13 @TheSwede Build thread below;

Had a chance to test drilling out the inner threaded section on these caps. Luckily I had the right size drill bit but found some drilling oil is needed. You can see from left to right- pre-drilled, partially drilled and fully drilled out. Last thing to do is to cut down the cap to its final size with the mini pipe cutter. These caps look really nice and have some weight to them. Unfortunately more expensive than the jewelry caps and require drilling so these are just for experimentation at the moment. Has anyone ever used this service for CNC laser cutting service? If it's cheap enough I might try to get some base plates made from my templates. Might be easier and cheaper to use aluminum so its easy to bend the plate to the finished right angle. https://www.emachineshop.com/

Offering metal versions?????? No way!!!!! Ha! I can't even drill the center hole correctly. Maybe if I get better at making them it's an idea to think about. But if people want really accurate and machine crafted power cylinders they should go to Chris or Dennis, Andy as well if he decides to make them again. Chris's cylinder kits are super nice too for the people who want to build them. Perhaps I could prepare kits for the budget builder. The materials I use are relatively cheap. Just labor intensive and hard to get the drill holes perfect and the cuts clean and aligned. Hopefully I can make a nice enough master set to cast from. Many possibilities how to go about this, cast part for part or 1-3 part assembly. Not sure yet.

So, other than some paint I'm kinda stuck waiting on cover strip material for my build. Now would probably be a good time to begin installing some brackets. Start this assembly process. Thanks for the encouragement FISD Troops.

Copy and paste your 501st legion profile link here and request stormtrooper access

now would be an excellent time to build some snap straps, and test out the clips on some scrap pieces. ^.^

Oops. Sorry about that, Colin! All done now sir!

If I get you right, Brian, only your master set of power cylinders will be metal, to then use these for making resin molds. Now, if you plan a separate base plate for the resin copies, then why not making this from 1mm ABS plastic sheets? Cheaper costs for material, for tooling, perfect to CA-glue with resin, easier to shape and bend, more lightweight and still strong enough to carry the few resin add-ons. I have 1mm ABS pieces in my Completion Sets and you can literally cut them with a pair of scissors. So much easier and faster than working with metal. Just my two cents.

Hello Romain, welcome trooper. You have joined the most helpful group of people you will ever meet. If you have any questions, feel free to message directly.

These are looking pretty darn awesome Brian, nice work sir.

Definitely stay with the second image, but no one is going to scale your photos and check to see if it is right Important things for the Thermal det are as follows and note the words approximate and between are used. Thermal Detonator (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted type, flat or dome top style screws, and be black (two per clip). V head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.

That's a winner attitude Josh !!

Wow this is a beautiful build, very nice work Steve, very nice indeed.

Congratulations Jonas, welcome to Centurion

Excellent Josh, keep pushing for it sir.

Oh yeah new photos brother we wanna see!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Brother!! Finally got a minute to hop on the PC and get a few pics of the happenings. It's all gonna come together, just a little bit of time and a bit of effort. I'll address the first fix I was able to make which was the frown extending outside the proper area. Big smile here, and it admittedly looks much better than what I submitted initially. Hopefully that takes care of this issue? Next is the Hengstler counter. I believe the angle of the photos of it are to blame and it is a non-issue? If not I am happy to make the adjustment to correct it. Next I took your suggestion on the Ammo belt, although I wasn't 100% positive there would be enough area to pull it up to snuff. I failed on the cut (as I am out of practice) and have to get a new one. lol YEEEEOOWCH!!!! yeah, that was a tough reminder. I used E6000 on all of my build, so into the freezer it went. I've disassembled it, without anything breaking. I did get in contact with Pandatrooper and the parts have shipped out this afternoon. I did also order a new canvas belt from Kittell (Imperial Issue) and it is on the way as well. Its now just a little bit of a wait, until the parts arrive, and I can begin a complete belt rebuild. Will I need to retake all the photos again, once it is assembled, or how would you prefer it to be? Thank you once more for your patience and guidance on my march towards Centurion!

Right there with you and following. Got my KB TLJ to start messing with and Jeff’s TLJ Anovos bucket by dumb luck signing posters. Let me know if you need any fiberglass supplies as I have epoxy resin and glass from a different project.

My pleasure

Just organizing my thoughts and links a bit... Shopping List (for approval) $400 Undersuit with cloth gaskets, neck seal, & rigging Sheev's Emporium $40 Shiny shorts Geeky Pink's Upgrades Metal thigh holster R2Dan Rear zipper closure Sheev's Emporium $38 Shoulder Bell and Yoke Brackets Ukswrath's Specialty + $4 Chest Pill Box Fabric Mesh Ukswrath's Specialty $55 Gloves EndorFinders $180 F-11D Blaster + $130 Se44-C Pistol The Imperial Factory Task List For Approval - repaint knee armor - repaint posterior - repair spat/greeblie - repair belt separation - replace all strapping Upgrades - install shoulder bell support brackets ~ strengthen/repair cracks in yoke shoulders - repair cracks ~ ab boxes - simulate separate pieces ~ ab boxes ~ wrist boxes - add magnetic attachments for chest panel - smooth and repaint all panel interiors flat white - remove and repaint thigh holster to match (need Torx security drivers - ordered) - repaint and clear any panels with severe paint issues ~ chest ~ ab - paint helmet interior black

I'm an 11 US in Nike athletic shoes, while also an 11.5 US in Puma athletic shoes. A full size up would round up to a 13 US, since RS doesn't carry half sizes. Should I be going with the 13 US or with a 12 US (which translates to 12 UK or 11 UK)? I heard that I should leave room for inserts and/or thicker socks? Thank you for everybody for your patience. This is my first set of armor or boots and I don't want to mess up the sizing.

Thanks for the link.

Yea I think if get a dab of glue between the bottom of the straps, near the belt boxes that'll keep them pretty much stationary at those positions. Trimmed and sanded the shoulder bells but can't do whole lot of strapping until I start assembling the clamshell together. I guess I'm happy with this. Just kind of free wheeling it. Got the 12" measurement marked, 5" at the bottom. Arced the line a tad and tried matching that on each side of both shoulder bells. Not a ton of return edge. Are these supposed to be kinda squished? Not sure it's worth putting them in hot water as the biceps will sit inside here and spread them.

You'll notice in both images the gap between the end caps and panel are approximately the same, something to watch out for

And thats a touchdown. Thanks a lot.

I have to rethink the attachment of the back box and need to adjust the thighs, but overall happy with the first test fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rather than experimenting blindly with your bell cuts, why not try something easier? The entire suit is made to fit together. For example, the tops of the thighs should follow the lines of the cod. For EIB/Centurion, one of the requirements for the bell/chest relationship is that there is minimal black showing. Take a look again at the reference pic below: For the kits I've built, I figured out how to trim the bell and achieve minimal black space by noting the relationship to the chest plate while it is on the person it is built for. It's easier to do this if you have an assistant, but it can be done when you're on your own (it just takes more time). Put on your torso. Position one bell (with bicep attached) closely on your shoulder so the top of the bell meets the shoulder bridge. You can temporarily attach it with blue tape at the top. You will probably note that the edges of the bell are quite overlapped by the chest and back plates. Using a pencil, follow the edge of the chest and back plates along the bell. This will give you a rough template/guideline for where you need to trim. This trim line is different for every trooper because the edges of the chest and back plates are always unique to each trooper! Remove the bell and trim conservatively. Put the bell back on and resecure it with blue tape. Move your arm forward and back. You'll note areas that are clipping with each other. Using your pencil again, mark these areas where the bell hits the chest/back plate. Remove the bell and trim conservatively. Repeat all the above steps until the top of the bell touches the shoulder bridge, and the edges of the bell and the edges of the chest/back plates no longer significantly interfere with each other. You should end up with shoulder bells that have edges that meet up nicely with the upper torso (think puzzle pieces), but don't have any resistance (for that "minimum black" look!). Hope this helps!

I’ve completed the full armor kit today, with the exception of the belt, I’m going for a full kit dress rehearsal tonight, when I can get some assistance. NOTE: this photo is a mirror image, so the knees are the right way around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Progress on making my own power cylinders: Here is what I have made so far. Aluminum base plate is still not cut to finish yet. My tools for drilling and cutting are very basic so its hard to make these with more precision. More work on these in the next coming weeks. Paper mockup of the base plate. Still need to work on my template but so far it seems sufficient to use. End Caps- 10mm metal fittings. These are used in jewelry making. The walls are too thin when placed onto the 9mm tubing so I need to use some kind of filler or glue. It,s literally a hairline seam to fill. I can use 9.5mm piping so the end caps fit perfectly snug but it somehow doesn't make the end cap stand out enough, looks almost seamless. I used a mini pipe cutter to trim down the caps, sawed off the top end eyelet, drilled a center hole for the 10BA bolts and filed down the sharp edge a touch to make them look more like the original end caps. Ordered some fuses from the UK to try those for the end caps like Playfulwolfcub used. I also bought some locally found stainless steel screw caps that look perfect for the end caps. They need to be trimmed down too and I need to remove the inner threading. Not sure my hobby drill press can do this type of work but I will give it try. Here you can see a side profile of the metal I need to remove.

Templates and Blueprints https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14867-tube-stripe-masking-templates/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/, restored by gmrhodes13 Still on page 1

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/1098-shim-alternative/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/935-newton-voice-amp-mod/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/949-helmet-question/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/912-anh-helmet-with-fx-armor/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/803-inside-your-bucket/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/347-i-found-a-modified-ethylene-vinyl-acetate-copolymer-resin/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/298-got-underarmor/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/659-canvas-supplier/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/540-chest-and-back-plate-connections/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/90-snapsbuttons-for-ab-plate/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/221-ap-mod-into-anh-hero/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/291-repair/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/270-more-sound-than-just-aerators/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/113-about-this-canvas-belt-thin, restored by gmrhodes13 Assembly, Mods, and Painting COMPLETED

Great attitude and moving onwards, looking forward to seeing you approved soon

AWESOME news, brother! I know having to get new armor pieces is a pain (believe me). My first kit was the old AM style from years ago and I had to replace the chest, kidney and butt plate for Level 3 (along with a lot of other fixes) so I feel your pain... it'll be worth it, though. Looking forward to seeing the new photos and as always, if we can be of any help, just ask!

Great to hear Josh, i look forward to seeing the updates and you as an approved Centurion in the near future.

Can't for the life of me find the adjusting tab method but here are a few options, these will work for bubble lenses too as long as you have some rim left on them Another Another Similar Similar

Ive seen a lot build where people use tabs which are screwed on to a base of thick plastic which is glued to the helper, if you leave the screws a little loose you could twist the tabs to allow the lenses to come out. A magnet system would work too, glue some plastic to the lenses in a few places, this would allow magnets to be glued underneath then glue magnets to the inside of the helmet. E6000 works the best for me when gluing magnets. I'm sure there are other methods around, I'll have a search when I'm back on computer