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Good day fellow troops. I would like to share the mod I did on one of the horrible Rubies helmets. As you know, it is one of the most ugly and inaccurate helmets on the market, but I got one very cheap, and I resolved to mod it on a budget. It took me less than 40 dollars (30 the helmet and 10 the mod materials). Despite it is not perfect, and far from the basic 501st standards, I think the change is remarkable. I'll give you a picture of the before and after. I used as a reference the ROTJ version of the helmet. The steps i followed and the changes introduced where: 1. Disassemble the parts of the helmet 2. Take off the bug lenses and trim with a dremel the eye holes. 3. Cut 1 inch of the dome and re-screw it on the bottom-back part of the helmet. 4. Remove the back grey squares and refill the gaps with a small piece of aluminum (in my case) or plastic plate 5. Re sculpt with epoxy putty the eyes bags, the tear frame, sharp the respirator tubes, and reshape the vocoder (with a bit of sanding of course) 6. Re paint with accurate colors and ROTJ scheme. 7. Print the stickers and add a coat of varnish to protect it all. 8. Add the frown trim and the under-helmet one. (I used a C one, not and S) 9. Re sculpt the eyes glasses with a green plastic sheet (I did not followed this last step, and for the moment I’m using the old black bubble eyes, glued inside with hot silicone)

Greetings everyone! It has been a very longtime goal of mine to be able to join the 501st. The reality has finally come full circle and I am at the cusp of attaining my set and applying for membership. I will be ordering a Full Commission build from Daves Darkside Depot. After treating and transporting numerous COVID-19 patients over the last 8 weeks (I'm a flight paramedic), I have decided that I need something to keep me sane. I am extremely interested in the charity work that the 501st offers and will thoroughly enjoy being apart of that (as long as I am accepted). I really look forward to meeting you all in the coming days/months! You guys and gals are amazing.

I received my BBB from Head Shot Props over the holiday weekend. Already had my B grade helmet kit from the sale around Easter. Now I've got the armor to go with it! I laid it all out yesterday to see what I've got. This will be my first stormtrooper build and first 501st attempt. I've got experience working on a mando but this will be a whole different adventure! I plan to get: Gloves from Endor Finders Boots from Imperial Boots Undersuit from Jim Tripon (don't know of any other options, especially stateside) Hovi tips and audio system from Ukswrath I'll think about a blaster later, but do want to get one in the future. Anything I'm missing at this point? Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

Hello brothers: Just waiting for the approval of the garryson of my country... these are the pictures that i have.... hope good news this year... cross fingers. Hope you like it

Thanks! I'll see if my buddy has some I can use. I appreciate the tip! My webbing comes in today, I have a soldering iron, and the snaps come in tomorrow. I look forward to giving that method a shot!

Helmet turned out great!

I have had some luck but it's a case of either going to an auto paint supplier and having a color match made in spray paint OR like I do eye match the paint yourself, helps having a small air compressor, it is time consuming but can be done. Although I was lucky and found a matching base white that goes with my Anovos FOTK helmet perfectly, you may be able to find a paint that matches well but it will be a case of trial and error. You can also match the shine with compound polish, you can even dull down depending on how much shine your armor has. Again it can be a lot of work but depends why and what you have to fix.

Hi from the UK, Just about to spend many hours reading, researching and asking questions to try to get a stormy suit assembled to a reasonable standard. Not touched the white stuff before but I do have a little crafty experience from a couple of bits in the past I had a Fb page called Pepakura Heroes a few years back that was a diary of some things I made...including an E-11. I'm in my late 40s so probably a mid-life thing but of course it's been a dream for decades so I figure I'd come here and hopefully you guys can help me out - you're my only hope.

Looking a 100 times better than earlier issues. I find using a polish/cutting compound can be just enough to remove overspray without affecting the paint underneath. For snaps I use vinyl strapping, I find there is less chance of the snaps pulling through, you can also use a soldering iron to make the holes, these seals the hole which also helps to prevent the snaps pulling through. A

I taped off and sprayed some gray on the tear and rear trap that needed touching up. Gave it some time to dry and peeled off all of the tape...looking good!! Sadly, the tape let some gray/black through, but thankfully just light overspray in only a few spots. Tomorrow I'll tape off everything non-white, seal the edges as best as I can, and apply what I hope to be the last coat of white! Since most of it's fine, I'm going to try spraying only the spots that need it, not the whole bucket. I'm sure I'd make other mistakes if I tried doing the whole thing...

ya he subido la foto no puedo separar el antebrazo del hombro porque ya están unidos y pegados

Helmet is progressing well. Before assembly I tested the new modified vocoder hole. It's a good fit but a little fiddly to get in and out due to the shape. I think the fit is good and will work great. I need to back up the hole with some sheet at some point but I'll do that later in the process. The bottom of the helmet was built up in subsections. Essentially halves, working from the front backwards. As I went I welded each seam whilst I had easy access. Before final assembly I sanded these down to remove any sharp points and roughness. Once the two halves were built, then I used the flat join to the top as a reference to tape the rear into position. I wicked in some superglue to fuse the two parts together. Due to compound error in the other seams there was a minor twist to the helmet. Fortunately I was able to force it out slowly gluing the chin section in 3 sections. The bottom first, then the top before finally wicking in some glue in the middle. Again these seams were welded with a soldering iron and some spare filament. I've refined how I do this now. With the iron set to 400ºC I run the tip down the seam. This starts to fuse the parts and also creates a small groove. I then use the iron to press the filament into that groove and smooth it. This gives a good strong seam that also doesn't stand too proud of the part. Attaching the top half was a scary job. As with the lower half, there was a small missalignement due to compound error over dozens of seams. I started by holding the parts together as well as I could and used masking tape inside and out to hold it as best as I could. I started by gluing the out side most seams, one side as a time. I had to pull the parts into place a bit but the end result was good. This done I started in the middle at the back and works outwards wicking in glue and pressing the parts together as best I could. As much as this is an important seam it's not the best one, bit too much glue gap filling rather than joining. The weld will hopefully make up for this. The welding on this seam was a real nightmare. Access was terrible and just trying to get the iron in was a striggle never mind a 2nd hand to feed in filament. I have now started on filling the seams, with P38 and acryl, and sanding the whole helmet. It's messy work as I keep over applying the filer. I have now run out of 120 paper so I need to get some more. The face plate is also printed now. This was a worrying 13 hour print. It's quite thin and I was worried it would be too weak, which fortunately does not seem to be the case. Also the STL had a lot of issues with it and so had been through a lot of repair phases. This has left lots of scaring on the surface as well. Fortunately this will all be hidden under the nose piece (which is also printed). Only about 20% of this will be visible but I want to smooth it out as best as I can. I am also toying with moulding it to make a version in impact resistant resin but I'm not sure this is needed anymore. Just to see how it looks I taped the face plate in. I want to do the finishing work before I glue it in permamently. I also tried it on, because you have to don't you. It's a shade on the large side maybe, but better than too small. I may even be able to wear my glasses. With some pads in I am sure it will look a little less bobble head when sat properly. I also got a lens for the helmet from an Esty seller. At the moment I am not overly impressed. It was €42 and the shape and edge finishing isn't what I was expecting. The optics are okay not great, there is a small amount of ripple when you look around. Size semms okay but hard to tell until things are held in place, so I've wrapped it in cling film for now to protect it and will try it again later. As I mentioned I'm out of sandpaper so I'm working on a few other things as well for now for a change of pace. Next job for the armour will be progressing with the left arm.

all of us were in your shoes once

Okay, I´ll do so. I´m soo excited.......like a little girl

Ya esta hecho. Gracias

When you receive your tk id you may want to post in this section New Approved TK, so everyone knows you're a new Legion Trooper. Also you can request Stormtrooper Status Here

Cool mate, glad you're having fun and make others smile (even police )

That´s what I´m doing, when I´m alone. One day, it was Fathers day over here, I walked the whole day up and down my driveway. It was fun to see the reactions of people driving by. Even the Police stopped and asked for a foto.

Just at this moment, I received an answer to my approval. Some little things have to be tweaked, or I should take better Fotos. It´s coming along

I´m really excited. I hope there will be an event in my area soon, where I can meet some members of the GG.

BBB is ike x-mas. Nice set you got. I´ve red about Head Shop Props but didn´t see their armor yet. Looking forward to your build.

There are videos on YouTube - I just don't have a link handy. Your AP armour will not get that soft in the boiling water - no worries - you won't leave finger prints. Try keeping it in the hot water for about 30 seconds and then take it out and see how much flex that gives you - chances are you will need to put it back in and heat some more. I found I had to hold the pieces in the water for close to a minute. Even then it still took a bit of force to change the shape. It is important to hold the shape while the piece cools under some cold water. I had to repeat about 3 times to get the full effect. Oh, if you mess up - just re-heat... I found that the ABS wants to return to its original shape somewhat when heated again. Hope that helps.

Yes it is blank and you have to click on the slideshow box on the right of the page then they will load, then select to slow, can then right click and save each image as they are sliding along. FYI that was on computer not mobile

I've added a few more images, I think I may be able to add a couple more specific pic's, I know it's not a race but once you start. ....well, ya know how it is! Please let me know what you think. Thanks.

The black is looking great now! Good luck with the gray spots tomorrow.

Welcome to FISD Brit, we have a lovely lady on staff, Teresa (Soulart) who no doubt will be around to guide you through your build. Teresa also makes gaskets and neck seals among other soft parts for costumes so if you haven't already, check out here threads on our forum.

Perfect. Cheers mate.

There are a few threads floating around with @ dimensions

When in doubt check the references in the gallery section

Hi Michael, Good luck with your project! Haven’t heard of the maker before. I’m looking forward to your progress. Cheers Christian

Hi Vin, as far as I know, there are no exact measures for the TD screws. I always place them matching to the reference pictures. Cheers Christian

Congratulations !! looking forward for your advances

1. Caleb Powell 2. Florida Garrison/Tampa Bay squad/Already approved SL-84095 ANH Vader 3. Armor maker RS Props 4. Helmet maker RS Props 5. Cloth belt maker RS Props 6. Neck seal maker Darmans props 7. Boot maker Imperial Boots 8. Idk... it was skipped in the overview thread 9. Blaster maker RS Props 10. Gasket maker N/A 11. Height 6', 72", 182 cm 12. Weight 205lb ish... 13. ANH Stunt/Hero 14. @TKSpartan was the most help, @justjoseph63, @CableGuy, @gmrhodes13, @Chemi, and @TheSwede provided key insights and I wouldn't have finished with out their help. I also wouldn't be done yet had I not bought a great set of hovi mic tips from @ukswrath. Thanks everyone for the help! The build thread link is in my signature. Hopefully I can submit for EIB the day I'm approved

Hey everyone! Ive just gotten an update from Dave. Looking about 4 to 5 weeks and my kit will be here. Ive already ordered my neck seal, boots, undersuit so just waiting for it to come in!!!

Fantastic job Caleb

You would be correct, the requests are periodically updated so shouldn't be too long to wait.

Awesome, what ever works, I started with a $9 voice changer that I gutted and boosted and had in my first helmet, ahh the good old days

I taped off the neck seal and sprayed a few coats of satin black. I peeled the tape off and there aren't any issues that need touching up! Very happy this worked out! Tomorrow I'll peel off ALL the tape and figure out what needs touching up. I'll do the gray spots that I messed up with the marker, and then tape again after a couple days to fix over spray on the white.

So HSP is making the armor now and looks like 850 is starting on the helmet.

Congratulations and welcome to the Legion, trooper.

APPROVED! I need to hike the biceps up a little and they're happy. Edit, I meant biceps, not shoulders

So here's what I'm thinking, and my proposed supplies list. I'm fully open to suggestions, please feel free! This is also my way of making sure I have a plan for each piece; let me know if I forgot some connections or parts. Fiberglass resin for reinforcement of most pieces and to reduce itching Satin white spray inside 5/8" black snaps to attach nearly every piece, allowing easy detaching Black 1.75" nylon belt I saw some pics in showing that he attached the thighs, cod, and butt to the abdomen/kidney armor, so no need for a separate belt 1" black polypropylene webbing Cutout 1"x1" squares, use a soldering iron to punch/cauterize a hole in the middle (might prevent fraying) and install snaps. Any input if the snaps will work with this webbing? I see others use ABS or HIPS scraps, but I don't have any of that. I'm hoping the webbing won't be too thick for the snaps. Suspenders to shoulder bells Shoulder bells to biceps Hang thighs from the "underbelt" abdomen/kidney with webbing strips (either snapped on, or looped through) Hang cod and buttplate from the underbelt abdomen/kidney with webbing strips (either snapped on, or looped through) E6000 Attach snap/webbing squares to armor Permanent assemblies (biceps, forearms, sniper knee, thigh ammo belt, anything else?) Adhere ammo boxes to belt? 2" black elastic Across the abdomen's rear, holding it tight but allowing flex Hold front of shin halves together, allowing flex and preventing cracks (hopefully) Attach hanging drop boxes to belt Run elastic loop inside shins to under foot, keeping shins down and facing forward Docker's black suspenders: hold up the barrel (clips will grab webbing squares glued/snapped to barrel) 2" black velcro strips Attach suspenders to shoulder straps Hold chest/back in place (weave suspenders through slits, allowing stretch and positioning adjustment) and keeps suspenders out-of-sight 2" white velcro strips Shins Thighs Shoulder straps Hand plates Belt front and back pieces Adhesive magnetic sheets Attach trauma plate to kidneys? Would make for simple attachment, but possibly too easy to fall off Low Density Foam strips Help fight armor bite and keep pieces steady. There are so many high density options, but I figured I'd want a squishy, low density foam, right? Rust-Oleum gloss black spray Paint the back armor's side strip and the abdomen's 70* seam Clamps Magnets Thermal detonator: no idea how I'll attach that yet. Any simple suggestions? I was thinking white velcro... I might not prime, since I'm using Rustoleum gloss white Paint+Primer

Why print something twice when you can print it three times! The change to the helmet part reminded me of the TD issue I had. So I've done the same thing, and also worked out how to get a bit of a better result at the expense a really slow progress bar. The results is still not perfect, you can see where there's some artefacts caused by Meshmixer reducing the mesh after the cut, you get to watch the progress bar of it ruining your part . I wish it wouldn't but I don't know how to turn it off. Also it would seem luck is on my side, maybe, need to print the part and check first. This is some standard UK guttering down pipe. You might remember it from such uses as the Shoretrooper Pringle cans, and OTTK TDs. And its about 1mm smaller than the hole *should* be, aka perfect. Obviously I need to actually hold parts and try it first. Yesterday I printed the tube stripe sections of the helmet. I was a bit nervous of these but due to cutting the helmet up to account for them I was able to orient it so they came out super clean. I also got all premature and got out the airbrush. The fit test got me all excited so I've started prepping them for a metal paint look. First job some gloss black primer. You can still see some of the tiny DLP layer lines in a few places and some grit that only appeared when painted, after they were air dusted and brushed down before painting However no ones going to be sticking the face as close as I do to them so I doubt you'll see them. Next stage will be some Alclad High gloss black then some Alcad Chrome. I am also considering moulding and casting one of them after the high gloss stage and trying an aluminium cold cast. And by considering, I know I will I just need to buy some silicone that's not about 18 months old. Maybe the stuff I have will work, I might get lucky but twice in a week seems like pushing it.

the sanding never ends

started to put the first coat of white noticed some cracks that were not visible with he grey primer

added some fiber glass sheet to repair come cracks on the chest made it strong might do it to the thighs since there are some soft areas as well

*****Update***** Hey yall, just wanted to update everyone. I placed my order with Dave on a full commission build!

Little Brown Box day!! Big thanks to @jimmiroquai for quick production and shipment, despite the COVID checkpoints!! First step: wash and scrub with scour pads and dish soap. First obstacle: maintenance broke a pipe and there's no water in the whole community. Second step: lay down drop cloths and use Bondo fiberglass resin and cloths to reinforce the interior. Second obstacle: still waiting on those items from Amazon. Third step: once resin has cured, cutout teeth and vents with a Dremel (hopefully without breaking anything since it should be stronger). Off to a great start! Lol!

If a picture paints 1,000 words then this photo review of @Hellhounds' rubber E-11 blaster will be an EU-expanse worth of information for any Trooper seeking a product comparable to the old Hyperfirms and the newer Praetorian blasters. The inspiration for this thread came from the fantastic comparison (thread) of a Hyperfirm (HFx) B-Grade rubber blaster verses that from Praetorian Blasters (PB), by @kman. In fact, the angles of my photographs are intended to replicate those used by kman, to provide the opportunity for close comparison of the three models. Essentially, these two threads should compliment each other. The Hellhounds Props (HHP) E-11s (among other blasters) are new as of October, 2019, and are currently available from Daniel directly, as well as from @TK-4510 on Trooperbay. As I understand it, this purchase is from the first run of a dozen blasters, and thus far there appear to be no user photos of these Hellhounds rubber E-11s on FISD. Daniel from HHP currently has threads mentioning his E-11 product here and here. Regarding Rubber Blasters For those of you unaware, these "rubber" blasters are actually constructed of a combination of foam and rubber, and may have some form of armature (solid framework) serving as the skeleton. The benefits of rubber blasters are primarily weight, durability, and safety. These rubbers are heavier than standard Hasbro and Rubies conversions, as well as most resin builds—providing a slightly more realistic helf—while still remaining light enough for hours of trooping. Fully metal E-11s can start to feel really heavy really quickly. As you'll see below, the HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz, or 2.19 lbs. Rubber blasters are also less likely to break if dropped, and if a component does come off, it will likely just need to be re-adhered, rather than reconstructed (resin or plastic may have cracked or shattered). Finally, rubbers are safer when trooping in close proximity to children who may wander outside the line-of-sight of a Trooper with a bucket on. A swing and impact of a rubber E-11 is less likely to injure innocent bystanders. The most obvious disadvantage of rubber props is that they are generally not as detailed and refined as their resin counterparts, but advancements in molding techniques are changing that. Now, to be clear, I am in no way associated with or being compensated by Hellhounds or any other blaster maker for this review; I am simply seeking to provide Troopers with data on a new product. Note, too, that throughout this post I will link to parts of the official FISD E-11 Blaster Reference thread (here is the Rogue One Reference), to provide additional insight and imagery. So, without further ado, open kman's thread below, split-screen your device, and feast your eyes on three types of rubber E-11s from this (US) side of the pond! NOTE: The images below may not appear as clear/crisp as they do at full resolution since the FISD/browser display compression isn't great. Clicking each photo will open a full-scale version which should present better clarity, at least in a web browser. HHP TOP DETAIL VIEW The Hellhounds Props (HHP) magazine appears to be closer in length to a Praetorian Blaster (PB), rather than the notoriously-shortened Hyperfirm (HFx). HHP appears to be just a hair shorter than PB, but I've also seen longer magazines on some images posted by Daniel on social media. Perhaps HHP magazine length is still being fine-tuned, but I may try to see if I can acquire a longer one. Additional, note that the HHP Hengstler counter includes the two soldering pins, while the PB and HFx do not. Finally, there is a HFx-quality seam on the HHP between the rail and top T-track, but the HHP T-tracks' quality and installation into the venting holes matches those of PB. HHP TOP VIEW Immediately obvious from this view is that the HHP has a static (non-movable) aluminum D-ring installed, similar to that from PB, but the PB version is rubber cast directly to the end cap. This HHP is similar to HFx in that it does not have a faux recoil spring behind the charging handle and bolt, like that provided by PB. Notice a slight tinge of brass on the scope, and a pretty minimal and clean seam line on top (much like PB). HHP FRONT VIEW This is where further distinctions are easily identifiable between the three blasters. In general, the HHP has cleaner lines than a B-Grade HFx, but PB comes out on top with the crispest lines and no visible seams. One of the HHP front scews is excellently made (PB quality level), and the other is adequate. The front sight is also correctly thin, matching that of PB and differing from HFx's thick block, and the HHP barrel bore dept on the HHP is 0.5" (1.27 cm). Note that, with blaster in-hand, the tip of the HHP appears cleaner than this close-up photo presents. Macro photography tends to reveal blemishes which would otherwise be indistinguishable to the naked eye from normal real-life use distances. HHP BACK VIEW As previously mentioned, the HHP includes an aluminum D-ring (woohoo level 3), while the PB included a molded rubber one, and HFx none at all. Once again, PB came out ahead with the most detailed knurling on the rear sight, followed by HHP, with HFx at the bottom of the pile. The rear end of the scope appears to be of similar quality on all three E-11s, and notice the more visible brass color on the rim of the scope (also present on the front, seen later). HHP RIGHT SIDE Stormtroopers and Femtroopers, I present to you, a METAL SCOPE RAIL, with open space underneath! You read that right. HHP finally provides us with an OT E-11 without a solid rubber rail, which was and still is the standard with HFx and PB. This was actually one of the two major factors in my decision to go with HHP (price was the other). Of course, doing so sacrifices the recoil spring and the clearing strip and extractor detail on the ejection port. Make note, too, that this HHP scope does not have the round knob on the right side. HHP LEFT SIDE An iconic angle of the E-11. The trigger guard appears to be of similar thickness to than on an HFx, which may be just a hair thicker than a PB. The guard feels very sturdy and I'd have no concerns holding my index finger on it during a long troop. The trigger itself is cut out in the same fashion as an HFx, with more open space below and behind it than that provided on a PB, and the HHP trigger feels a bit flexible, which leads me to believe it is cast in solid rubber. Additionally, aluminum appearance is present beneath the selector switch on the HHP, a detail left out by HFx but included by PB. HHP BACK QUARTER VIEW This perspective highlights the metal scope rail, though take note that the rail is thicker than it appears in this image (due to camera lighting). I spoke with HHP about the strength of the rail prior to purchasing, and Daniel assured me that it is solid—which I agree with. That scope isn't going anywhere, and I do not foresee any sag in the long-term. Notice the screw head on the underside of the rail, which secures the scope (a second is obscured from view by the counter). Additionally, this angle, once again, shows the magazine length, which is significantly longer than the HFx but perhaps just a hair shorter than the PB. And finally, two notes regarding the rear sight area. First, the horizontal retaining pin area has been molded as a recessed space on the HHP, as opposed to raised and textured (faux) pin on both the HFx and PB. Second, though not easily discernible in any of these images, there is a locking notch band at the end of the receiver tube on the HHP. HHP BOTTOM VIEW Another major differing point of this HHP blaster with PB (unsure of HFx), is that Hellhounds hollowed-out and split the arms (wishbone) of the folding stock. On the Praetorian the two arms are actually a solid piece molded with and surrounding the trigger guard. The second photo below shows this up-close. AWESOME! The only other distinguishing feature from this angle is the length of the magazine, and the already-discussed aluminum appearance beneath the selector switch. HHP EXTRA VIEW This angle shows several features which are missing from the HHP blaster but were included by PB and HFx. The ejector knob is missing on the HHP, as are some greeblies on the magazine which are present on the PB (but also not included on the shortened HFx mag). These omissions, and perhaps also some missing details on the front and rear of the power cylinders are perhaps the greatest shortcomings of this Hellhounds blaster. It's possible that the ejector knob fell off in-transit, so I will be reaching out to Daniel to inquire about a replacement/addition. On the plus side, the casting of the Hengstler counter appears very nice. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at @Hellhounds and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. In the meantime, he is planning on sending me those individual pieces to add on to my baster. HHP ADDITIONAL ANGLES The images from this point on are all from new angles not included on kman's Hyperfirm vs. Praetorian thread. They are intended to highlight the fine detailing present on these Hellhounds blasters, and will so provide a better view of the of the differences in the three rubber E-11 blasters. These first two images provide alternate angles of the mag well area, showing the lack of the ejector knob. The two soldering pins on the Hengstler counter are also visible. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. Notice the detailed inscriptions and oval inlay on the bottom of the magazine well, shown below. Very nice, as is the texture on the magazine itself. The two images below highlight the T-tracks, venting holes and folding stock. As previously mentioned, the T-tracks are smooth and straight. While I am not certain that the original Sterlings had such a texture on the stock metal, I definitely like the presence of the it as it adds to the weathering and could even be considered to be carbon scoring. "You boys have seen a lot of action..." The image below shows a close-up profile view of the muzzle screw, front sight, flash guard, and folding stock butt. Notice that, in the same fashion implemented by HFx and PB, and clearly for the purpose of providing structural support, the front sight is not hollowed out on the HHP. The two images below are intended to highlight the charging handle, ejection port and guard, and texture on the folding stock and grip. Note that, as already established, there is no recoil spring, clearing strip, and extractor on the HHP. However, the grip detail is fantastic. Additionally, other than the rubber trigger, the grip is the only other place on the blaster where flex can be found—on the smooth front and back. I suspect this may be intentional to provide comfort in-hand, and I like it. Below: End cap and D-ring from both sides. Also shows the end cap clip, scope rail, and rear sight again. The textured and inscription details on the back of the scope can be seen on the photos below. While there is some brass weathering, a little more would be nice. These two photos below highlight area around the front of the scope, showing the molded screws, metal rail, power cylinders, and the soldering pins on the Hengstler counter. Notice more brass color on the scope rim. The HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz (2.19 lbs or 0.99 kilos), comfortable for long troops. FINAL THOUGHTS By my assessment, the Hellhounds Props blaster situates itself right between the HFx Hyperfirm line and the Praetorian blaster. Overall the mold/seam lines are of better quality and more minimal than those on Hyperfirms, and approach or in some cases match those of Praetorian. A few details are missing on the Hellhounds, such as the recoil spring, magazine ejection knob, and greeblies on the magazine (EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch) and power cylinders, but conversely, HHP has included details not currently seen on OT blasters from Praetorian or Hyperfirm—a real metal scope rail and split arms on the folding stock! While this may not be the case forever, it is also worth noting that the Hellhounds E-11 is currently less costly than one from Praetorian. For me, this blaster was an EXCELLENT choice, and I would not hesitate purchasing from Hellhounds again. And there we have it. Hopefully this photo review can serve, in conjunction with kman's thread, as a valuable guide for any Trooper in the US considering purchasing a rubber E-11. Perhaps in the future I'll have the pleasure of owning more rubber blasters (DLT-19!) and be able to create additional comparison guides. I'd be happy to serve as a weaponry photographer/reviewer Amazon Vine Program style here on FISD. In case any of you missed the link near the top of this post, here is the FISD's official E-11 Reference Guide, followed by a Rogue One variant: Move along, move along... MV