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Congrats! I would normally say "get out there and troop", but that is probably not advisable right now. So, kit up and watch Netflix.

My pleasure, sir... looking forward to seeing the results so that we can get that EI badge under your name!

I’ll get on and do that tomorrow, I can see what you mean. Thanks for the help and feed back I appreciate it, thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great job overall, Tyrone. Just a little thing I’d fix for general appearance; As above, your biceps are currently not aligned with your biceps. They should be twisted inwards to align the coverstrips. To achieve this, I’d suggest adjusting or tweaking your bicep to forearm elastics. Here’s how the originals were attached; Note how the coverstrips align straight down the arm. Best of luck with your application, Tyrone. Overall, looking sharp, Trooper. [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1]

Onwards an upwards!

So I emailed them and lol they did bring the corona virus into their reply lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just signed my name as well. Always good to help folks in need.

Slowly but surely getting there, and thank you so much for your words of wisdom too!

In other news, they did ship out some Pauldrons today. Small wonders!

Cool. I’d check out a few SDS blaster builds here on FISD and see if others have documented this modification. They may have found a simple option for making this change. Personally, I’d be tempted to drill approximately as shown below. The d ring might be a little tweaking and encouragement to get in there. ;-)

Hi Trooper, looking great. Good luck with your EIB approval.

Hey trooper, I believe the SDS is likely to pass with many GMLs for basic. Good start. As you’re aiming higher with your armour, here’s some bits that you could tweak if you wanted to. The SDS blaster is missing the cocking handle. You could source one of these and add it, if you wanted to. The power cylinders on the SDS appear closer to Rogue One style than ANH. Replacing these could be an option down the line. The Hengstler counter is quite far back. You could try moving this forward a bit. The wires were not commonly seen in ANH so these are up to you if you keep them. :-) For fitting the D-ring, do you have some detailed pics of the end cap? I’d imagine your have to drill a hole through the end cap, then separate the d-ring where it meets in the middle and carefully insert it.

Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And there we go......... the Anovos COVID-19 excust that we all knew was coming. I call B.S. on all of this. "small batches" my an impolite person. They have been touting the "large shipment " for years now that mysteriously never arrives. Charlie is, "Worried about the supply chain keeping their promises"? WTF Charlie! How about you and Anovos keeping YOUR promises!!!!

almost there trooper!!!

I have padded the arms and legs today, sugru should be arriving tomorrow and after that I'm padding the helmet. VERY little left!

Welcome to the rank trooper , great progress!

Good luck with your application Trooper !!!

Brilliant thanks for you help and advice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking great from the front!! Brilliantly Stormtroopery. [emoji1]

Ah, sadly I don't. But I'll get some later today@CableGuy. Sent from my J8210 using Tapatalk

Looks good, just make sure you do all your sizing wearing your under suit.

Slick as ever mate. Great work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

ANKLE SPATS So, I've been wrapping my head around how to do this, as I have seen a few methods using snaps on the greeblies, or velcro. I've finally decided I will do it a little differently, and clasp the ankle using the seam instead. Let me explain. The seam has a higher surface area compared to the greeblie, and that allows me to use magnets to ensure that when closed, the ankle is "straight" and not at an angle. MY first step is to shave off the top and bottom of the inner seam so that the outer one will sit nicely flush over it. This is how it looks after. Next, I cut away the notch where the greeblie will be sitting, so that the greeblie can also sit flush between the 2 pieces. Glueing the 3 pieces together (Ankle, Flap and Greeblie), this is how it looks. The excess top and bottom will be shaved off later. This creates a higher surface area bond compared to just a snap on the greeblie. On the other end, this is how the seam will look like after I install 2 magnets (1 on top, 1 on the bottom) to make sure the alignment is always flush when worn. And this is the completed ankle spat with the flap glued, edges trimmed.

Right forearm was the last thing I did and now for the left side! Inner cover strips installed: I was not a fan of resizing this weird shaped piece. As you can see, it seems to be a nice fit until you get to the end (near the elbow) and its a little snug..... Hot water bathed it and made it a bit more of an oval shape: (There is actually a bit more space than what is shown due to the armor resting on my forearm. Not a bad fit. I am just going to verify the slightly modified shape holds its shape before I add my cover strips. tomorrow. As I mentioned before: I did not like sizing the left forearm. I did my best to make it smaller in circumference and to make it roughly around the same size as the right.

I don't understand, I literally have an RS commission build I own and the shoulder bridges are exactly cut as the reference image you sent me! why did I not see this??? I am so frustrated with myself. It must be me looking at various WTF builds and mimicking what others are doing VS me actually referencing screen images and my RS kit. Thank you so much

Thank you for the advice! I ended up removing them and im going to try and align them better. I agree that the elastic would probably do the trick but I would prefer to have the shoulder bridges align just a bit better without the extra aid. I still plan to use little elastic bands to enforce alignment and screen accuracy.

Help Medical Professionals in the fight against Covid-19! When a hospital in Brescia, Italy ran out of life-saving respirator valves, local 3D printing stepped in to help! [BBC] [3D Printing Media Network] According to Twitter, the hospital's ICU supplier was not happy and refused to supply the blueprints. [source] As a preventative measure of the same situation happening in your local area, there is now crowdsource project where people can volunteer about their 3D printers and to assist in designing other necessary medical supplies if needed. I know a lot of people here have 3D printers or are design expertise. Please consider joining Project Open Air, where you commit to volunteering the usage of your 3D Printer in case the respirator shortfall hits your local hospital. Google Document where people list what they have However, do wait until you are called upon, since some printers and materials are not suitable for medical useage. However, every little bit helps (testing models, etc). Mods LMK if this is not appropriate.. I originally wanted to post in the 3D printer area but I don't know it well enough.

For science and documentation purposes, here's a 1 hour dry time for Latex Acrylic - Behr Marquee, base Ultra Pure White, MQ330, Semi Gloss at varying wet sanded grid on Anovos Gen 1 220 Grit 320 Grit 400 Grit 600 Grit 800 Grit 800 Grit with a Wooster Semi Gloss brush 1200 Grit

OP (MV) Post #14 Well, it's been a crazy two weeks since my last post, to say the least. Local schools have closed and the College (University) I work at has transitioned to distance online learning for the remainder of the term. It's hard to know if these changes to life due to COVID-19 will result in me having more time to work on my build, or less, but either way I've been attempting to collect the last couple of supplies needed for the project so I can minimize shopping in the near future. Social distancing. Weird times. With both my builds (my HWT being the other), I've been posting photos of my collected supplies for two reasons. One, to enable experienced builders to provide feedback on the items, and two, so that future buildings can have a visual representation (along with purchase links) of the exact items they may need to purchase themselves. First up, gloves and lexan scissors. The 3M chemical gloves came from Lowes, while the straight and curved scissors were from Amazon. Has anybody had any experience with the MPI Maxx Products curved scissors? They were supposed to be the Excel brand, but the seller shipped me these instead, so I'm wondering if I should give them a go or return them. I've also just received my 8oz E-11 holster and neck seal from Darman today, and will have photos of those up by the weekend. 120 magnets, yes you heard that right, are also in-hand. Joseph recommended at least ten (10) large discs on his supply list and Magnets 101 thread, so I got 20 of them plus 50-packs of the smaller ones recommended by Christine (Cricket) for her shin closure design. I also have needle files, mineral spirits, and acetone in the mail. @justjoseph63 - Can you send me a purchase link to the "Sandblaster Pro Flexible silicone sanding sheets from 3M" which you recommend on your Supply List? I'm not sure if what I'm finding is correct; perhaps it's no longer sold any more. Stay safe and healthy, friends.

I have had both the Jim kit and the 850 AW kit. some of the things I have noticed between the two are: Jim's Kit- Fairly accurate in size of parts and overall look. You will need to trim it most likely It must be painted, so sanding and priming The fiberglass will eventually crack at stress points. This can be fixed and a lot of the stress can be relived depending on how you assemble it. Jims helmet is a cast of a modded BS helmet. 850 AW kit- No helmet Overall look is good but most parts (boxes on belt, OII on back and abdomen details are undersized. Most detail parts are cast and will need sanding and clean-up. Because all the cover strips and detail parts are cast, you will need to paint whole kit You will need to trim it most likely There are a few helmet options: Order one from Jim Mod a BS (lots of work) Order one from Headshot Props Buy the 3D files from Nico Henderson on FB (probably the most accurate). Hope this helps.

Is E6000 good for gluing plastic foam to plastic? I planning on padding up the armour soon. Also, should I maybe velcro the visor on, so it's removable?

For me , the Helmet is the most challenging part of the armor build process. Keep on doing a great job mate. Cheers

Hi trooper, Great work so far. :-) If you are removing the should bridges again, here’s a little accuracy upgrade that you could consider. As below, the original screen used shoulder straps had nice, square corners. This ‘could’ be a little tweak for you, if you fancied that extra nth of accuracy. :-) This is not clearance related, just an optional upgrade. :-) Best wishes Dan

You could try to use 5mm white elastic, that should be all that’s needed and as a bonus screen accurate.