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Hi all, As we’re all sharing helmet pics (WIPs, clearance etc.), I thought I’d share a little photography tip for anyone that wants to give it a go. As many of us use smart phones to quickly snap out progress, holding the camera too close to the subject will cause some distortion, leading the the helmet looking “droopy”. Try taking a couple of steps back and zooming in - this will look much closer to how the human eye sees it. [emoji1303][emoji2956] Here’s an example when taking pictures from all angles;

doing a little painting for a customer............

Hi everyone! Thanks for the feedback! I'm currently modifying my armor to correct the issues stated! I'll have new photos up soon!

While there are a number of ways to attach the lenses inside your bucket, I found the easiest and fastest is to use a product called SUGRU. It is a kneadable glue, sort of like play-doh (plasticine) that is super easy to work with, and will hold forever. It does keep somewhat of a pliable consistency after drying, can be removed if you ever need to and does not emit heat during the curing process like CA or Epoxy glue. It is available online (like here on Amazon) and in many craft shops, usually in packets of 3. It comes in a variety of colors, but I suggest using the black. HINT: This can be done if you have already built your helmet, but it is easier if the face plate has not been attached. This whole process will take you less than 10 minutes to attach both lenses. Here is a photo of one of the individual packets, and the contents rolled into a ball. In this instance I am using 1 packet per lens. You will need a craft (popsicle) stick, sharpened at one end: Here is the trimmed eye opening from the inside: The next step is to roll the SUGRU into a small "snake" shape about 7 inches in length. (No longer). After that, you simply press it into the outside edges of the eye opening. Note that I left an open spot at the top. I recommend this for ventilation purposes. (Helps keep your lenses from fogging up). Place the lens evenly over the opening. Using a craft (popsicle) stick, push the glue firmly into place around the outside, making contact with both lens and helmet surface. Don't worry if it seeps through to the front. Hint: This glue is strong stuff. You don't need a crazy amount of contact surface. It will not come off unless you take it off. Turn the faceplate over, and any glue that has seeped through (see red circle) can be easily removed with the sharpened end of the craft stick. Allow 24 hours for it to dry, and you are DONE!

None of us had experience with any of this at one point! Research, trial and error, and just a gung-ho attitude goes a long way. I'm particular about my paint finish, but you could probably spend a lot less prep time and still get a decent finish (or have an auto body shop paint it, as many others have). My biggest beef with 850AW is that despite the lower price, it is less accurate to the screen used materials and since you can't pull the details needed with vacuforming, they 3D print things like the back panel O II, which you then have to color match to the ABS and paint. I haven't seen anyone get it 100% spot on, so some guys end up painting the whole suit. At that point, just get a Jimmi. Shipping is the worst thing about buying from him, but if you can find anyone else interested in a kit and split the cost, that helps. Group buys, ftw. Hope that info helps tho, always around for questions. Do all the research and make whatever choice is best for you. And I appreciate your kind words, just resting up this weekend after my LAST chemo, so not a lot of work happening over on my thread for now.

Well once you get your film developed, scan the photos and we'll let you know how you did

Looking forward to seeing your submission, sir! Just make sure you have all the required photos, and please add them to your thread with an image hosting service. Thanks!

Please add one full front photo (straight on, not from above). Thanks!!!

I technically do not qualify for the comp since I haven’t started my build thread yet. Although technically I have been getting soft parts since the beginning of last month. I’m still waiting for BBB day Although I plan on going straight for Centurion right off the bat and have been collecting the needed parts piece-meal.

Thanks, Tony. Weekends are the best!

Looks like R1 buckets. Look at those vocoders.

Congratulations trooper, Welcome to the Legion.

Here’s a nice pic of the fibreglass casts of the OT buckets... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Looks like built in thigh garter slots too.

Yes trimming isn't bad at all. I just have been using a Dremel cut off wheel. I added extra resin to the inside of my suit but you don't have to. And yes, the entire suit needs to be primed, sanded, and painted. It is more of an off-white gel coat from the mold and has plenty of surface imperfections to fix, pending how anal you are. Yep, keep researching and asking questions man. Know what you're getting into either way.

Jimmi's fiberglass suit requires MUCH less modification and assembly than the 850AW suit, if you have no costuming experience. It was my first fiberglass suit too and is coming along fine. Jimmi's material is also much closer to the screen used materials - R1 suits are not made of ABS like the OT ones. Jimmi does not offer an ABS option. Correct - a Black Series would require modification for approval. Jimmi offers a standalone fiberglass helmet that is a very cleaned up cast of the BS from my understanding. It should not need any mods for approval. The whole kit just needs mild trimming to fit, paint, and assembly with Velcro/strapping. Let us know if you have a more questions we can help with.

Great progress and modifications Jasper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work Chemi, good luck on your application

Very nice work Thomas, good luck on your application

This is definitely going to be printed and put in my resource folder! As are many of Joseph’s tutorials! Thanks for your awesome work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

YESSS! Congratulations Philip, welcome to Centurion

Fantastic job Jasper, wow you're really knocking this out

Excellent detail as usual Joseph!

Super Saturday in Sing! Amazing progress and looking good [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Very necessary post, thanks! Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Excellent info. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great advise, Jose. [emoji1303] Just to be safe, images from the reference image gallery are probably the best examples to post. [emoji3526] An buttons: Common Ear alignment;

My pix are from my EIB photos to show how round (more or less buttons) they need to be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I belive it`s not the applicants but that of a fellow Trooper posting photos in this thread.

**Please be aware that is is my personal opinion, explained in detail below.** If you are looking for accuracy with your ANH Stormtrooper build, hopefully you will find this very useful. Before you start building, I’d highly recommend that you use the following; - Magnets; to experiment with, and fine tune, positioning of the two parts of your helmet (faceplate / back & cap) - screen reference photos (found on whitearmor.net and/or starwarshelmets.com) - free collage apps (example, LiveCollage) to compare your progress with screen used examples Aligning the faceplate with the back & cap is a key factor in defining the look of your Stunt Stormtrooper helmet. Based on the reference photos below, especially the various group shots throughout ANH, it is my opinion that the majority of screen used stunts had a ‘similar’ appearance to the photos below. There were, of course, a few variations, however, there is certainly a trend (backed up by the group shots). My suggestions are along the same lines as the CRL, following the most common appearance throughout the movies for an instantly recognisable look. Mounting the faceplate high into the back/cap leads to a long (front to back) but short (height) looking helmet, more reminiscent of ROTJ/ESB MKII. This can also lead to the eyes looking a little cross-eyed from the front. The following photos will give examples of this. I have seen this a lot recently and thought it was worth highlighting. As always, each helmet was handmade so slightly different, however, the vast majority follow this method of construction. Do bear in mind that, due to the differences in helmets from different makers, results may vary. Let’s start with the basic premise - the majority of reference photos show that if you draw an imaginary line (shown here in green) from the rear molded line of the back and cap, this will sit just above the eyes; or to put it another way, it is very unlikely that the eyes will sit HIGHER than this imaginary line; Let’s look at this with a helmet kit. The below example is using an RWA Stunt, 1.5mm helmet kit. The below images show how vastly different the same helmet can look, all based on the alignment of the faceplate and back/cap. There are many examples of the ANH style throughout the movie and reference materials, but very few with the faceplate mounted so high into the cap (in ANH). The below photo is a Hero helmet that also supports this theory. As with most Hero helmets, they also had a clear gap between the eyes and the brow trim. Here is Han’s helmet supporting the same theory; The below two photos are the RS Propmasters screen used helmet, again, supporting this theory and alignment. Another, just for reference. Here are some more examples of helmets following this type of alignment/appearance. As mentioned early on, each helmet was handmade so slightly different, however, the vast majority follow this method of construction, as shown in the many reference photos and screen shots. Do bear in mind that due to the differences in helmets from different makers, results may vary.

Here I include some pictures to help you . Drop boxes are aligned. Bucket ear position & angle Abd plates painted and sized Abd and kidney are not overlapping with slight opening Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would recommend aligning drop boxes just a little more towards the furthest wedge. I believe your ears on your bucket are sitting a little to high and need to be a little more & to an angle... Are your back traps painted or stickers ? Your abd buttons need to be repainted .... The same abd plates are a little too big... Please take this as a sincere critique, you will get your EIB, ty for sharing your pix, your armor looks good so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you have pix front view instead of ANGLED from the top and keep them consistent, also Please include all pix needed for EIB, please as stated earlier, makes it easier for the DO Team to evaluate your armor, Ty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work, just a couple of things you could address while waiting for the DO's Remove excess paint from gum area : Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. TD screws are very large You may want to try to add some tabs behind the butt plate to help hold it inwards, it is pushing out at present. Ab button paint is a little small, you may also note the corners are not rounded off on the ab plates, also they could be trimmed a little more. Good luck with your application

Hi Thomas, Great to see your EIB application so soon. !! According to the CRL, you may want to add the following photos that i'm sure the D.O. Team will surely ask you for: 1- Close photo :Right and Left ,outside and inside of your Thigh ammo pack to see the rivets type. Level two certification (if applicable): Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. No pop rivets allowed. Rivet should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter (exterior). 2- Close Photo of your Sniper Knee Right and Lef side to see alignment Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. 3- Close Photo of your boots: Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Boots have a black sole The D.O team will let you know of any additional photos to submit. Good luck with your approval mate!!

Thank you everyone for your support! I am definitely gonna aim for the centurion build since I am loving the quality worked put into it based on the examples I have seen (Though still debating if I should go for ESB or ROTJ). I am slowly going thru all the resources on this site, and can be quite overwhelming, but I'll do my best to understand. Gonna check out the Dune Sea Garrison website as well, but is there any additional requirements to registering at their website?