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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/28/2019 in all areas
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2 points
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First comicon done,didnt realise his shoulders were on backwards other than that he had a great time. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk2 points
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I know it's not real leather but I think it came out pretty good. I had some material and I decided to give it a try. I still plan on making one out of real leather but this will do for now. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk2 points
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E6000 is the safest, you may find over time the foam can rip off, but that does take some time. What can also help keep them straight is looping some elastic through the front boot loop then adding snaps to that and inside the shin, or Velcro, stops them from drifting upwards or sideways.1 point
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Depending on what you are using you can normally once uploaded to Imgur right click and select copy then paste directly into your post, the other is to select "direct link" and paste that into the post When in doubt with trimming head to the reference gallery, lots of great info there to follow1 point
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Updates! After talking with @kman at an armor party, it was suggested that I skip the kidney shimming since I should be in a good spot to fit without. That said, started laying out the ab/kidney and cod rivets and wanted to post before drilling anything:1 point
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Got it thanks, that is what I was thinking. I like your suggested design for the shin closures.1 point
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You are correct, I probably worded that poorly and was not directed at staff in particular. What I was trying to say is the CRL is the best interpretation for not only screen accuracy but consistency between all of us TK's. It is not meant to replicate the cracks, repairs or flubs on the screen armor. I was trying to say that some people get bogged down on the minutia when discussing the CRL like reinforcement that can't be seen or verified or things like exact dimensions for elbow gaps. The CRL is for the general, idealized trooper, not a specific trooper. So...BLa, Bla, Bla.. I was just saying that the 501st Mandalorians shouldn't have their own CRL since we were all just approved ANH TK's with different levels of build from Basic to Centurion so the CRL for them would be the standard ANH TK.1 point
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I just used E6000 to glue foam in, for the same reason I used it for everything else on my build. If I ever want to, it's easy to tear out and clean up. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk1 point
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For the shin question - yes, regarding the 25 mm coverstrip - it gets glued to the outer half of the shin (so the Velcro closure opens inward so fewer people will notice it) and the overlap part gets the soft side of the velcro. The inner half of the shin gets the rough part of the velcro (half inch thick strip to match the velcro on the coverstrip). I'll send a sketch in a bit. It is not uncommon to have a bit of room around the knee - it is just the way the thigh fits. If you try to trim it too much then the thigh piece wont fit in the middle part of your thigh. If you find the part bangs up against your knee when walking, you can always add a bit of foam to the inside.1 point
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Thank you! My baton is from the Hasbro Black Series. Thanks to advice from “gmrhodes13”, I’ve since made a few modifications to make it look more movie accurate. Also added a holster mount for carry and gutted the electronics to save some weight.1 point
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Excellent thanks. I promise I am trying to read through the information, but as I said before, it is a lot to digest when you are just getting started. You mention the light plastic TFA helmet. Is there a thread that talks about the pros/cons of plastic versus other types. I have seen some older threads talk about fiberglass, etc. Want to make sure I am getting good quality gear that is fairly durable, but lightweight. I also don't want to buy something that won't qualify or be approved. My goal is to be approved at a level 3 certification.1 point
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If you by ”higher up officers” refer to the Deployment Officers I can assure you there’s no confusion at all.1 point
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Timely repost Q, thanks. Started trying to do my snaps and butchered three of them before quitting for the night. This couldn’t be more helpful. Thanks!!1 point
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So all major construction finally done! I hate the R1 belt btw. Have to glue on 3 more of the belt face boxes. Going to trim the top of the thighs just a bit to get them to sit a little better and improve movement. I had a hard time getting the thighs to close because I couldnt quite reach. Aloso going to improve the shoulder strap connections and add obe or two elastic straps from the ab to the inside if the chest to keep it from pulling up. All in all I think Im pretty much done. Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk1 point
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Man, don't know how I missed your thread. Congrats on doing a AM build! Nice to have another AM kit in Garrison Titan.1 point
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Looking good Don. Less stress is always a good thing, supposed to be fun anyways right? lol Anyway, keep up the good work1 point
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I normally tap a Philips head screwdriver on the post, this helps spread the post out then finish with the snap tool1 point
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Hope I’m not too late mate: Bicep hooks: I used a piece of cover strip abs 3/4” wide by 4” long Mark one end in two segments 1” long, once done trim and sand the edges of the piece so it doesn’t fray the elastic. Break out a heat gun, and have another piece of abs cover strip available to help form the abs when it’s malleable. Heat up the abs, keeping 4” to 8” away, I highly recommend having some heat resistant gloves to avoid burning yourself. You will see the abs start to soften, once this starts to happen, place your other piece of abs on the warm abs and begin to fold it over. Take your time shaping the abs into position, and I highly recommend doing a few practice runs. Once you have the hook shaped, it can be tightened up applying some more heat, and a ruler. Next heat the abs again to shape the bicep hook to match the contours of your bicep.1 point