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INCOMING INCOMING INCOMING Paid for kit today eta 7 to 10 days till BBB!!!!!!

Hi Mark, good luck with your build! Just want to mention that if you follow the red line you drew, the ends will probably be visible even with the chest plate on. The shape of this yoke is screen accurate and ideally should not be modified. It's normal to be unable to have full mobility in this costume, though of course, some make modifications to get a bit better range, but except some limitations.

As long as it fits good is the main thing. Better to have more room to move in than less.

Very clean looking good job Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice job. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk

This.. is.. AMAZING!

If you want to make more room on the top, you can open the top joint up to 10mm either side and the joining strips will still hold the parts in place. You can make your joining strips slightly wider, say 17-18mm wide if necessary. You can also add reinforcing strips on the inside if you want added strength. Just because you have cut them smaller doesn't mean you have to go with them if they feel uncomfortable to wear. There are always solutions to problems

Looks very cool - great job

Nice work. [emoji1303]

So after considering my options I decided to go ahead and apply the Plastidip to the inside of helmet. Later I'm going to attach velcro as needed for padding and eventually to attach electronics (fans, etc.). Ended up using a full can to coat the inside of the cap and face plate. I wasn't sure if I wanted to just go with just the bare lenses on top of the mounts or if I wanted to use the ABS I cut before to make rims around the lenses. They look pretty good like this. I decided to make the rims and just see if I liked it. I decided to paint them silver While that was drying I hot glued the screen into place over the frown and cut out an adhesive foam rubber border to hide the edges The next day I mounted them. I decided it gave it a more sophisticated look And it's all back together (minus the rubber trim)

This is unreal. Wow. Incredible work!

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Starsaber, thank you very much. I’ve been trying to figure out the images thing. Looks like it worked. Thanks to all of you for the welcome. I’m aiming for centurion so this might not be done tomorrow but I will post my progress. Looking forward to learning from some experienced people along the way. Got some great help so far. Just need to pick a place to start. Maybe I’ll do the build in the order it’s put on when done. Things I will need are a good neck seal, holster, gloves that fit these Sasquatch hands and patience.

Yeah I noticed that too. A small roll of green stuff between rail and body "should" be enough to keep it from going everywhere. oy, you can see my drilling and horrible cutting skills even better when you zoom in

Thanks for the offer. Can you alter the headlien to read: "What the heehaw am I doing wrong?! A DD pipe dream"

good build ! goodluck with your application !

I am probably going to have to make my own custom rail from steel, I also plan on using the “Z Bend” type rail as that’s what was on the Hero prop that Jyn Erso uses, but I may also make the more common “block and screw” type scope rail.

Confessions, Part... something. Man, I hate typing this out. But here goes. When I got the help sizing my ab+kidney, I barely even looked at the positioning before scoring and snapping. A bad idea. I know. Well the size itself was fine, but I realized later that one side seam was further towards my back than the other. It wasn't HORRIBLE because you'll never see my right and left sides at once to compare but it was noticeable, at least to me, and it put the seam under a snap plate too. (How that didn't tip me off before I cut it, after all the measuring I did to make the snap plate locations even, I cannot say.) Well anyway I decided to rectify my mistake, and had fortunately saved all the snapped off pieces so I could tell exactly how much to add back to the kidney and remove from the ab to keep the overall size where it was. A clean cut at least. I CA glued them together and ran a bead down the back with some accelerator to solidify it. Then I slathered some ABS paste over the whole dealio. Figured I'd have a nice lesson in shimming. I haven't done enough sanding yet in this build, anyway. That was yesterday. Today I cut the shim down to size (hence the smallness in the next pic) and wrapped some 180 grit around a paint stick and wet sanded the mess. And now I have this dark line running down the middle and I can't figure out why. Was there pencil graphite on the seam that I didn't notice before gluing? Is it a shadow? An unfilled crack? Most importantly, WHAT on EARTH can I do about it now? Best I can figure is to carve it out, or sand it down past (???) the darkness and build it back up and sand it back down again. It's been a quick process so far so I'm not too worried about it, just bewildered and highly disappointed in myself. So. Any advice greatly appreciated, as always. Y'all are the best. Just think - after this I'll know how to help somebody else who gets into the same situation! *forcibly shifts paradigm* Now nice things! I hot water bathed many items yesterday. My chest tabs are bent down for a closer fit (front/left is current, back/right is original): And the side wings are bent in too. Boy, was that a pain. One insisted on curling at the end. I ended up clamping it between two paint sticks with binder clips for the rest of the work which flattened it well. My shins were a bit off as well. The cover strips weren't lying flat. But now they do! And I finished my holster, which was awesome. More on that later.

Have you considered green stuff? I'm a big supporter of this to save from build mistakes - I even fashioned my trigger with this to resemble the real deal. Using green stuff to fix your trigger is another option. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk