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Thanks Chaps, glad you are liking what I am doing and the collection Right!! I didn't like how the first attempt at the additional T tracks on my DLT-19 looked, so I have redone it. This involved stripping off the track that came with the blaster, stripping the barrel shroud back to bare metal, repainting it, and fitting all of the new rubber T track. The new track is held in place with double sided tape, and then secured with the twisted wire fixings. I think this looks better as the T track is all consistently one kind. Because it is rubber the Track 'dents' under the wire as I seem to be able to see on pics of the original blasters. And of course the the positioning of the the tracks has been adjusted to what seems to be the accepted positions. Paul

Hi Dave, to me your armor looks well built. Maybe you get asked to shorten some cover stripes on the arms and to raise the belt a little bit. But I am no expert on this. Let's wait and see... Loving your removable holster Good luck with your level 2 request.

Always go full Centurion

Hey guys, not trying to resurrect an old thread (yesiamsorry), but my younger son got the same costume handed down from big brother, and won one of this year's costume contests at the Star Wars Days at LegoLand California! Video here: Very exciting, because he beat a kid-sized vacu-formed version! I think the judges liked the scratch-build aspect. :-) My favorite part is that when he was called up, it was necessary for him to do the very same "shuffle" that the original ANH troopers had to do when running, because of costume constraints. :-) A fitting retirement for this costume, as my younger son is also outgrowing it. But it went out on a high note! Bill

Cod rivet is no longer painted. lol And the rear cover strips are on both thighs now: I'm planning to reinforce my shoulder straps the same way Cricket did, so I cut some thin plastic scrap into covers. The thin metal strips are in the mail (Amazon all the things!). And my super simple snap plate template. It's the same width as my 2" nylon, so it just gives me a guide for the plate length and the template holes match the hole punch size. So things should be pretty consistent on the plates and straps from here on out.

Looking forward to the progress. You can get two piece compression clothing, works well for me, cool in summer and easy to find at most gym retailers. Comms I use a 1506 Aker amp from eBay and an icomm static burst unit available in the for sale section or web search icomm. Good luck with the build.

Name : Dave Gilmore TK ID : TK 73076 FISD NAME : ATAUK Garrison : UK Garrison Height : 5'10" Armor : RWA 2MM Capped - ANH STUNT Armor maker : RWA Helmet maker : RWA Blaster : RS PROPS E-11 ANH Holster : RWA Canvas belt : RWA neck seal : RWA Gloves / guards :ANH Imperial war fighters Boots : Imperial boots Electronics : Troopacoola Tramp Build thread: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43541-dave-gilmore-rwa-2mm-capped-anh-stunt-wip-maidstone/&share_tid=43541&share_fid=44557&share_type=t Dave Gilmore . RWA 2mm Capped ANH STUNT wip ( maidstone ) Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk

Hurray my ANH Hero TK has just been approved! I’m so happy – a dream come true! I’ve been a huge fan of Star Wars since I was a little girl and was lucky enough to be able to work for Disney when they’ve purchased Lucasfilm a few years ago. While working on the campaigns I've met the lovely people from the Dutch Garrison and before I knew it I was dreaming of creating my own costume. Back in January I was finally able to purchase my kit from TM. I was so happy when my BBB arrived in March! Thank you so much @troopermaster for this gorgeous kit! I was very afraid to touch it, let alone make some cuts, too afraid I would damage something I could not repair. From July until last weekend, it was a roller coaster, blue tape everywhere and not to forget the smell of E6000. I will definitely miss it ; ) If I would do everything over, I wouldn’t fuss so much about the cutting/sanding the perfect lines for the fore arms, biceps, thighs and shins – the cover strips will hide it anyway, and not to mention the many re-cuts you have to do while fitting it to the right size. Big thanks to @VulpX (for getting me started and introduce me into the TK world, we had fun : ) @toxication and Nadia (for the lovely evenings, sharing progress and ideas), @TheSwede & @Frank75139 & @lucnak & @CableGuy (for the super swift responses on my WIP-posts – so happy with your feedback!) and last but not least everyone who contributed to this awesome forum! I’ve spend so many hours reading all tips & tricks, it’s so great to see troopers taking the time to help each other to build awesome costumes. I’m proud to be part of the family, and I’m looking forward to serve the Empire the best way I can. Now moving on to Expert Infantryman

Hi I'ts my full scratchbuilding dlt-21 no plans, no 3D printer, only a pure handmade Done. Ultimate version is ready. On the basis of pictures, film frames, materials from outside the plan and frame-by-frame, the final version was made. different radiator system, two spiral towers on the barrel, an additional ring on the barrel and a wire system from the brake lines gives a film effect. Enjoy https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN4ql78Uhlj53hcThV2VWx7it8B1LynxWnW--RWonQLb-2y52405D3puEJXdiEdDQ?key=N3QyZVpPYy1OUjl0azhEWVB6UGxOeWhmbGtUdk9R BH

Well....when starting to try it on it become clear that more magnets were needed...alot more....I used all 50 in this project, who would have thought I’m going to be a walking magnetic field so Keep your phones and other devices well clear anyway...couldn’t find much quality reference as to how high up to mount it other than this and there’s no way I have that much space to the TD...I think I got the hight close enough though. Mine look more like the toy in terms of spacing or lack there of to the TD And a front pic I shorten the straps to lift the vest up some more and here’s how it turned out, I would like it to sit more flush to the armor but with strapping alone this is as good as I could get it.

Good idea using the double sided tape for anchoring. You did an amazing job on this piece.

That's looking REALLY nice, Daniel. Keep up the good work.

Build has kinda stalled, part motivation and part waiting for parts. Contacted Burkbench and he made a mistake in my order, crossing the wrong Daniel off the list apparently. Oh well, human mistake. Said he would get right on it. Coming up on 3 weeks since that message, gonna send him another one soon. Gave the mic tips a coat of white and scuffed them up a bit Added the last ear screws and countersunk them. Do this with a drill bit about the size of the screw head BY HAND. DO NOT USE A DRILL. Before/after I've also been polishing up the helmet and various parts to give them that Death Star shine. Using the drill backing plate for a car headlight restoration kit, I cut up one of my polishing pads and used Menzerna SF-3500 to get rid of 6 years of wear and tear and just laying in a box. Here's a video showing a 50/50. Man does it make a difference.. Also managed to do another test-fit of my armor. Please tell me if you see something The belt will close up the side gaps and also hopefully fix the buttplate trying to sneak under the kidney. Click the images for higher res. Also ordered a new undersuit from stormtrooperundersuit EDIT: Might have to pad the shins or add elastic to prevent rotation.

Trooper! Up against the wall and "spread" em? Lol Or... OMG,TK,PDF,FTW!!

Hey Lionel one of the DOs will be with you shortly. While you're waiting please post a photo of the wrist side for the forearms from a head on (straight) view. Also, the left thigh ammo pack mount needs to come down. It's correctly located on the ammo pack itself but not on the thigh armor, it should be positioned in the center of the lower edge. Take a look at the photo below and reference photo provided on your EIB app. As for your hovi tips, so long as they're white on the inside you're good.

I had issues with my AM knee belt as well. It just didn’t go right then I screwed it up more. So I’d say leave it as is. It’s not bad at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought u were a CENTURION .... Do it tonight CMDR GREE ! DO IT !!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was mine, had the same struggle

You could take some more off, or smooth out what you've got cut and see how it looks. The cuts are wavy, so smoothing/sanding it might make it OK.

This looks great. Nice work. I am considering an E-11D from them. I wanted something a little more durable than strictly a 3D print for trooping. Love the lounge!

Changes are clear now with the ukg [emoji2] Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk

Hi and thanks for the comment Belt was off its attachment on ab plate initially. Did not realise untill wife sent me the pics after dekitting lol so took a couple more. This has not been changed since my initial wip build which is cleared. Was just a dressing issue and my not so good at spotting wifey lol Cover strips i think is mainly how it looks on images as none are over the armor as far as im aware but more images can be provided if needed Sent from my HTC One M8s using Tapatalk

Thanks Paul! Very informative and helpful. I appreciate your time. You have a real beauty there. I love the room you have, too.

Congratulations trooper!

Well written post, Laura - and a good choice to go for one of Troopermaster's kits. Glad the build worked good and you finally got approved. Good luck with requesting EI

You are making great progress. Nice work! Be sure to check out the snap setting tutorial in the "how to" section. And get a snap setter that has the sliding sleeve part that helps keep the snap in place. It'll save you some grief.

Thanks buddy

If you are an approved 501st member you must request an access update here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/?page=255

I don't think they need to be remade. I am thinking that if you straighten the clips, then roll the TD out the right location it might help. then just cut the excess off the end. Again, this is probably more of a Centurion issue, but might as well fix it now, that way when your approved EIB, you can just turn around and submit for Centurion *side note, I keep pushing people to apply Centurion when I haven't yet lol. My costume is ready, just been so busy with other projects HAHA! maybe ill kit up tonight and submit!!!

Did you bet your armor and let the wookiee win? Good looking bucket!

I think you need bigger magnets. Kidding!!!! haha... Seriously, those look great. Nice work!

Took some time off from building my armor. I’m the dummy in the grey shirt and bucket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Primed Pattern for tube tube primed Aluminum base coat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went ahead and glued some magnets, if it won’t work then no biggie as I have plans for the interior Magnets on the back aren’t glued yet as I haven’t confirmed the placement hightwise It works! Yeey! Next challenge will be to include the vest but that’s for another day

Great news, Sean. Here's an overview of what's required. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/95-expert-infantryman-program/ When you're ready, upload your application - here's where to apply. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/ Let us know if you have any questions and we'd be happy to help. :-)

Thanks! I think the closures are one of those things that if I don't do it now, I might not do it later. D'oh!! At least that's easy to fix. Thanks for the catch! I don't know what happened! I sat down and there were a bunch of people working on their projects, then I looked up and people are cleaning up and I'm the only one sitting around playing with armor. Totally zoned out. Figured I'd better get up and help clean up too! Haha! And you helped me plenty! Thank you so much!! Definitely was! Sorry to increase the jealously level. lol Thank you!

Here's the updated link and FOTK differences (including Phasma)! It should be posted in Getting Started later. OT TK Differences: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-cu3I77_aCwZl8CJBoEwlvH5jLCOmPXk/view?usp=sharing FOTK Differences (Incl. Phasma): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GGRJdA6q7hxnPECsIY6wqJ0lGtX6rZ0p/view?usp=sharing Let me know if anyone has any issues viewing, because Google Drive can be buggy.

Here's the update link, it should be shared publicly, so no one should have any issues viewing it: OT TK Differences: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-cu3I77_aCwZl8CJBoEwlvH5jLCOmPXk/view?usp=sharing FOTK Differences (Incl. Phasma): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GGRJdA6q7hxnPECsIY6wqJ0lGtX6rZ0p/view?usp=sharing Let me know if anyone does have issues, because Google Drive can be buggy.

I was sure to say "hi" for you! Unfortunately, no completed Stormtrooper for me. Haha! Between getting to meet everyone, talking to others working on items I still had left to do and lending a helping/taping hand where I could, I was a little less productive on my own armor. But that's ok and I did make good progress on the legs with Cricket's help! Had I done them alone they probably would not have turned out very well (a second person is very helpful to line them up), so I'm very grateful for that. I also made some good notes for a couple different snap placements, reinforcements to prevent cracking, "Cricket Closures", etc. It was a very good day! So while at the armor party I removed the upper return edge on the left thigh, then trimmed both thighs for 20mm cover strips on the front, and taped everything together. Slapped those on my legs with the shins and Cricket made quick work of helping me size and mark everything for trimming. Here's the trimmed left leg. I had trimmed the right thigh but before I could get the right shin done it was time to clean up and pack up. So I finished the trimming at home that night and now I'm working through gluing the thighs, currently the front cover & inner strips are glued on and tonight I plan on applying the rear strips. I figured I'll wait until I can wear the torso armor so I can trim the rear to match the shape where the thighs and posterior meet: In the meantime I installed and painted the lower tab split rivet, like a few others I also added a snap base to make it more functional and easier to replace that strap if needed. While parts have been curing I've begun making snap plates, I'll mostly be using double snap nylon plates. The ones pictured below were test pieces I made while getting used to setting the snaps, I've since made a template from a scrap piece of plastic to ensure that the snaps will line up on both the plates and straps. And once I get my 16qt pot and the magnets (should be tomorrow for both), I'll be following Cricket's method of closing the shins. After seeing those in person it's definitely the way to go!

I think I am finally done with painting the boots. It took somewhere between 7-9 layers. I lost count at some point. After how much effort this took I did decide to get some clear protective coating for this. I’ll be going with the same brand Angelus for that. Just to avoid any issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have been asked, both here and elsewhere about the details of this DLT-19, and so I have made a video which shows the blaster, how it functions and breaks down for transport etc.

Getting going on the T-21. It is a 3D print so I’ve been busy sanding and spraying filler primer. The kit doesn’t include all the greeblies so I ordered these from shapeway. The base part didn’t fit the arm so some trimming was needed. Glued together. This shows the difference between the finished surface and the original with print lines. I’m using the print lines to simulate the ribbed texture of the original Lewis guns. Original I had to remove some plastic to accommodate the rear swivel. Most of the parts are glued and ready for black primer. You can see where I didn’t filler primer the barrel for the ribbed effect. This is a version of the original Lewis gun. Some seem to have the texture extend further back, some don’t. I think it is the same as what is used in the movie based on how the light is reflecting in this shot. I’ll do black primer followed by gloss aluminum and a clear coat. This is my base. I’ll spray gunmetal and black on layer in light coats and rubbing it off a bit between coats. This gives a nice worn look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@shashachu you said the same thing on my teeth....and they look amazing now!

Yes! Just received my TK-ID confirmation email. Tk-95970 reporting in now. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

So now that I've been approved through my GML, still awaiting my official approval and TK-ID from the LMO, it's time to begin the electronics add one. Through the gracious heart of a fellow garrison member I now have this happy addition. Now to work it all out and get it installed. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Approved! Now for my legion email and to start working on those eib and centurion badges. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Not being satisfied with the ABS paste, and also considering the paint seeming (hehe) to match.. I went ahead and used body filler and paint. I REALLY lucked out on the paint match here, it is DEAD ON Up close in the correct lighting you'll see the body filler. Not that good with fillers yet, but it's not noticeable at all from a small distance. For any Norwegian, Swedish, or Finnish folks here that have a 2012 ATA kit, this is the paint I used (gloss white): https://www.clasohlson.com/no/CRC-Pro-Paint-spraylakk/Pr346047001

So things are still a bit hectic but I'm sneaking in work whenever I can, trimming the armor pieces and working on outfitting my helmet with all of the electronics. I was getting some whine in the Hearing Assist that I got from Ukswrath that I could not get to go away and I narrowed it down to the USB battery packs I was using, but Tony and I got to talking and I ended up upgrading my electronics to his newest version. So now the Hearing Assist is powered by the speaker amp (yay for one less battery pack in the helmet!) and there's no more whining (me or the hearing assist). I wrapped up the helmet tonight and I'm really happy with how it turned out. Everything is contained in the helmet, so I won't have to run any wires outside of it and my big ol' noggin still fits inside too. That's dual fans & battery pack, hovi-tip speakers, I-comm, amp, and the hearing assist. Plus padding. I obviously don't have to state how quickly room runs out but it was fun working out how to get everything in there. The helmet now only goes on one way, but once it's on it is comfortable and somehow nothing is rubbing on me. I only used 4 helmet pads: one at my forehead, one on each side at about a 45 degree angle, and one at the rear at the base of my skull. The placement worked out very well, the helmet moves with my head and I can look up, down, and side to side without it moving away on its own. The soft side Velcro at the very top is just to provide a little extra friction against the top of my head, it helps keep the helmet still. Helmet outside: Inside: I glued each component on some scrap ABS as a mounting bracket/surface and used the ear screws as main mounting points. For the brackets that go up, I backed them with industrial Velcro to support the weight and to keep them from flopping down. And for the front, I installed the frown mesh with glue and then hot glued some fine fabric over the mesh to keep people from seeing inside, I'm not sure if I'll use a balaclava or not yet. I painted the dried glue flat back to clean it up some and then I used Velcro to mount my microphone in place. And obviously the accurate S-trim is already in place, that actually went on a lot easier than I expected based on what others have posted. lol And that's about it for where I am now. Now it's on to finishing the trimming of the rest of the armor pieces (one shoulder, biceps, forearms, and a couple leg pieces) and then it will be time for fitting and gluing and all that other fun stuff. Parts list from this post: Ukswrath Cooling Fan Kit Ukswrath TK Hovi Audio System Ukswrath SHA (Hearing Assist) US Army ACH/MICH Helmet Pad Set ( Link ) - From this I only used the 3/4" Oblong Pads

Finished! This is the look after final sanding with 2000 grit paper and some Novus polishing. Smooth to the touch, but you can see some color inconsistencies. Therefore, I took some advice and gave the piece some light dusting with white spray paint. Even though it has now been deemed unnecessary, I'm still happy I took this route. Took way longer than I thought, too, but I'm now pretty confident in my ABS paste skills. Can't wait to start putting it all back together! Thanks for your suggestions, everybody.