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About Astyanax

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  • Birthday 05/09/1974

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  • Location
    Oceanside, CA
  • Interests
    Movies, aquaria, sushi, Star Wars!

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  1. You may be late, but somehow, I'm still here. I didn't finish it beyond the steps posted in this thread, but I plan to get back to it, because it's such a beautiful weapon, and I've learned some new skills in the last couple years! Thanks again all for the really kind words. It truly must be a labor of love.
  2. Hey guys, not trying to resurrect an old thread (yesiamsorry), but my younger son got the same costume handed down from big brother, and won one of this year's costume contests at the Star Wars Days at LegoLand California! Video here: Very exciting, because he beat a kid-sized vacu-formed version! I think the judges liked the scratch-build aspect. :-) My favorite part is that when he was called up, it was necessary for him to do the very same "shuffle" that the original ANH troopers had to do when running, because of costume constraints. :-) A fitting re
  3. They should be sized correctly if you print them at 100%. The reticle is 1" wide (480 ppi), and the counter is 1/2" wide (404 ppi).
  4. These blasters are back at Wal-Mart! I picked up a couple for $12 each, just so I could tinker guilt-free! Bill
  5. Only twelve bucks in the Halloween section, thank you Rogue One. They're a really great way to cut your teeth on some finishing and weathering, and perfectly entry-level troopable once they're finished! Just sayin'. Check my sig to see what I did with mine. My kids borrow it all the time, because it's "heavy". Bill
  6. 22. HAND GRIP This turned out to be a very short, simple step, as I did not make lots of changes here. The BYOB comes very close to the actual thing in shape, so my contribution was just a little bit of detail. First, some reference pics: On the right side, I only added a single brad head to the back end of the grip. The four molded bolt heads I left as-is, because they look pretty nice already: For the left side, there is an upper plate that attaches to the upper end of the grip. Taking my cues from Allan1313's build, I fashioned my plate out of a piece of 1/4"
  7. 21. RECEIVER & FEEDER (right side) This side was quite a bit more straightforward. While I didn't match the shape perfectly (limitation of the BYOB), I feel it's come quite close and I can move on. This was my primary reference pic: The first thing to do was to add a plastic strip, similar to the left side. This piece is 5-3/4" long by 3/4" wide. It was glued so that the back end lines up with the rear of the blaster (similar to the other side), and the front goes as far as it can up to the edge of the black recess plate. Then, I ground off the two large "tabs" protrud
  8. Still here, will get back to it soon. Taking a break. Bill
  9. Heh, thanks for all the kind words! I'm really happy with how it's coming along. I've had to travel a bit these last two weeks for work, so it'll be a bit more time before I get the right side done, but I have full confidence this build will be worth it. The whole trick has been to take it slow and not to rush each step. And to leverage individual skills, such as Allan's extensive woodworking skills to speed things along. I'm not that good with wood, so I've had to use other techniques. Good luck! Bill
  10. No, I had no problems. I recommend lots of pressure and the larges driver you can fit in there.
  11. 20. RECEIVER & FEEDER (left side) Smaller update this time, as this section covers the "feed cover box" (or whatever you call it) that was added to the MG34 by the Lucasfilm SFX crew to make it a DLT-19. Also covered here are a few of the details on the main body (receiver) of the blaster. First, some requisite reference pics: The first thing I did was cut a strip of 3/4" wide Plastruct (styrene) to a length of 6-5/16". I glued it on the side panel of the receiver with E6000. As I began to plan for the feed cover box, I realized that the side grips for the top f
  12. 19. FEED COVER This update was a long time coming, but it turned out to be a lot larger project than I expected. So if you're still reading, settle in for a bit, because I think this is the biggest update yet! Beware of many pics! First off, some original pics for inspiration: The feed cover is one of the most distinctive looking parts of the whole build. It is fundamental in giving the DLT-19 its characteristic "hump back" and therefore its unique silhouette. This is where the BYOB really falls short. The toy gun tries to simulate that hump by having a "wave" shape
  13. I used a 1-1/4" ID PVC pipe as my main blaster barrel diameter, and 1-1/2" at the base to make it closer to proper scale at that point. The template prints floating around are not perfect, no. They will probably have to be tweaked/scaled to match properly. You can have a look at my BYOB build thread for updated templates: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32933-astyanaxs-poor-man-dlt-19-build/ Bill
  14. Here's mine: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31669-rubies-yet-again-astyanaxs-e11-conversion/ It's a great blaster, if you can still get it for a good price. Bill
  15. Thanks guys. I haven't dropped this thread, just taken a break. New job and all. Will update next week. Bill
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