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Belt trimmed & cut. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After all the paint dried and I was able to glue the wood pieces together that needed to be glued, this is what the display looks like finished: I must say I am pretty happy with the result, but I had to add an extra wooden wedge to keep the blaster in an upright position. I think the mistake I made was that I didn't cut out enough wood from the front leg which left the blaster in a quite unstable position. However, if you guys are interested in rebuilding this amateur work, I would be more than happy to measure out everything exactly. My last update will be one with the blaster display and the little metal plaque that I ordered from a German Garrison member, so this wasn't the last picture

You only need one but...two is better

I need to leave it longer and get stronger clamps then. At first it wasn't even close to fitting so I did the hot water treatment and got it closer. Now I can get it all lined up by manipulating it but when I take the clamps off it seems there isn't enough of a contact patch. I'll glue it again, double the clamps for more pressure and leave it for 2 days. I wasn't sure the bath would work but it did make it doable. I might use small c clamps to apply more pressure than the springs clamps. I'm making progress now. Both arms are done, I'm putting the "body" together now as I have it fitted to me. That's a pita by yourself. I'll post pictures of the progress so I can get feedback on what else I need to do , I'm sure there'll be something that can be done better. I'm taking bits and pieces from lots of your builds to build mine.

Fans are wired up. I took some scrap ABS and created a mount for the potentiometer and picked up a power switch for my setup as well. Simply heated the ends and bent the ABS into the shape I wanted and drilled holes for the switches. After soldering all the wires I added some electrical tape to hold it all together and keep it looking clean. I used a 9volt battery connector to enable removal of the battery pack out of the bucket. Only reason I used this connection is I had it readily available at home. Tomorrow I'll get this mounted in the bucket.

I got a brown box yesterday. Not THE Brown Box, but A brown box, it had my boots in it, and my heart fluttered when I saw it. I can hardly imagine how I'm going to feel when I see *the* BBB if just this little one made me feel so many feelings. I can't wait even more now. (Grubby work bench didn't seem worthy of holding it - but such is work) As seen in the title, I'm Lorelei, and Cricket's build thread has left me quite confident that I can attain Centurion as an ANH stunt TK despite being 5'4", 120lbs (thank you, Cricket!). I hope to make this an inspirational thread... or maybe it will all go to pot, and we can have a jolly good laugh while I order replacement parts. I can see it going either way. Regardless, I'm not going to quit until it's up to snuff. Join me! Joseph's list of required build items seems quite daunting, but I'm working on it. My build notes are getting longer and longer... but here's what's what with anything that's anything. Starting with the easy one: BOOTS Totally Killer Boots. Got my small female foot sized in a large men's Brannock device at a shoe store to have the best shot at a good fit despite the men's-only custom-ish nature of TK Boots' boots. They fit perfectly! I got some of their "less than perfect" ones, available upon request, and they're *hardly* less than perfect. So I'd say if they're out of your size, definitely investigate the "less than perfect" option. ARMOR On the ATA wait list as of 5/25. I read good things about ATA and the price was pretty good, too. Since I'm still working on my Seventh Sister garb, I'm fine with the longer wait time. I'm fine with it. I'm fine with it. Maybe if I repeat it enough, it'll be true... SOFT GOODS I'm going to make my own neck seal. Once I draft the pattern, I'll start the fabric hunt. I've read a couple posts with recommendations on fabric types - think I have a good idea of the desired effect. I'll also make my own belt. I need small rubber gloves. Heard there were some at Walmart a couple years ago. May add nomex later, but need rubber for sure. I have had the worst time finding an undersuit! I don't want to spend a small fortune on UnderArmour, and the EastBay shirt I got was baggy around the elbows. I think my best bet will be getting a dancewear catsuit. I have these tiny little stick figure arms and I'm petrified of having baggy elbows showing between my armor... I've also heard good things about Lycra dive skins, but I'm sick of paying return shipping charges and am, sadly, not in surf shop country. Recommendations from other skinny-armed folks greatly appreciated! BLASTER What's the deal with the blaster, anyway? The 501st doesn't require them for admission, but do the EIB and Centurion qualifications require them? If they ARE a must then I'll pour more research into options and all. Frankly, I really like the DLT-19s, but are they only for heavy weapons troopers or something? I'm having a tough time finding info on that. Lorelei out.

Just remember that awards does not mean you have to troop that way. For instance you can have rubber gloves/latex hand guards for your EI/Centurion and troops were you want ultimate accuracy, but then troop with nomex gloves and plastic hand guards the other 90% of the time for comfort. Once you get a EI/Centurion award, how you troop is 100% up to you.

Nicely done. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure if you’ve made your purchase yet, but another option for an E-11 is from QuestDesign: https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/192791479/star-wars-stormtrooper-e-11-blaster-prop?ref=shop_home_feat_1 I'm pleased with mine.

Thanks for the replies guys, it really helps a lot to see how many people are reading my thread and giving advice wherever I need some, cheeeeeers! First update in a long time: but I did get a few things done Worked on the thermal detonator to get it out of the way, that's what I enjoyed about my blaster build - you can slowly see all the smaller parts come together into bigger units until they eventually form the final piece. Here is a picture: However I am stuck with a couple of problems. The first is the horrible shape of the RS parts. This is what my front shins look like at the moment: And this is the back: Eeeeeeeeeeer, help? Next problem, how do people install the little metal mesh thingies in the hovi mix tips? I've seen a couple of video tutorials about it, but none could really solve my problem.. And last, some (hopefully) better news I started to put together the arms! First fitting picture here: Does this look kinda alright? I am planning to still tighten the biceps and definitely the forearm, but does the rest look alright? Cheers, Freddy

Oh! What a great idea! At this point I only have one more hole to drill, and my "supplies" budget is shot and then some, so I'll stick with my new found drill skills for now!

OK... new plan of attack. Was planning on fitting forearms today, but with LTM bringing up the Thursday armor party, I think I'm going to focus on trimming everything (aside from what will be sized) to get more out of the trip. I've marked out the spots to trim on the fronts of the greaves, and thighs, but will probably wait for hive mind approval before making the cuts. My theory on this is to cut at 11 to 12 mm knowing it should be 10 on each side, but allowing for error, with the intent of sanding down to the appropriate 10. The thighs seem easier, there's a nice edge to run the ruler off. I marked at 9mm to allow for the gap between the first hash mark and the edge of the ruler. The shins...hmm. Well it feels like a bit of a guessing game, feeling for the start of the curve, with my thumb, and then trying to get the 0mm mark as close as possible. My other thought was trying to run a pencil on the inside to generate a line to measure from, but it seems a little sloppy and may not be the best. Suggestions welcome, cod and butt marks to follow. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Also, for the sniper knee, try to glue one side at a time. Start with one side (I think I started with the front) and, as others said, let it dry long enough (more is better than not enough). After that, positon one other side as desired and clamp it/hold it in place as well as possible and glue it. After one side is done drying, it should generally stay in place when you do the other sides. Also, don't hesitate putting way more glue than needed so that it gets fixed really well. You can always remove the excess glue once it has dried, so that's not a problem. Keep up the good work - the sniper knee is always a difficult part ! ;P Sent from my LG-M470 using Tapatalk

Hiya Here’s a good example of a screen used belt. There was very little plastic above or below the ammo packs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm building a AP ANH too, so gonna follow you along! I might be a touch farther along, but I've been chipping away for over a year, so there's a solid chance you'll finish first. (So maybe you can tackle that sniper knee and post how you made it work!) I love my HyperFirm B grade, but it's a StormTrooper Blaster that I get to play with, so I may be easy to please. I plasti-dipped my helmet. I like the dark look, harder to see your face in it. The hardest part is plugging the holes well enough so it doesn't seep onto the outside paint. (It was easy enough to remove for me, because I plasti-dipped before painting the frown, but I could see how that could be a PITA.)

Love it!!! [emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update 08: - transport box for the armor As participation in events became more frequently, I had to think about a suitable transport box for the armor. Up to now I attended 9 events, carrying everything in that 4 years old BBB. After seriously researching, I ended up with a Stanley box. Many here will think of the popular 190 liters box, because it is a good choice for TKs with original strapping. My TK has the standard strapping, so I looked for something smaller and found a 113 liters size. Note: It took two months with lid opened for the factory stench to evaporate… The box seems very robust. I can sit and stand on it without problems. The integrated lock is a nice feature, but be warned: I tested my key on 5 other Stanley boxes and it worked on each of them! Looks like they use the exact same lock for all boxes. Guessing a few guys (including me) will soon replace their locks. Now onto decorating the box… Was happy to have that V-groove covered in a useful way. There is space for about 60 - 70 events. Enough for me. Went on with the sides. Seen many boxes full with interesting stickers, but I had not enough to fill the sides. What I had instead, were two laser-cut imperial cogs “from an earlier project”. I am really happy with the result and do like the clean look. In case anybody wants to pick up the aluminum cover on the v-groove, then please make sure to use a sufficient thickness. My alu stripe is only 0.8mm. A bit more would be better, as these boxes might be stacked on big events.

According to page 10 of the Sterling User Handbook, this is called the "single shot position". Tried hard but did not find the letter "R" in those three words. Another source said A=automatic, R=repeat, S=safe Oh, and good build progress.

There should be one on thursday night at Brents, he should be posting it later this week. PM me if you don't see anything

After you reach that then you’ll be wanting to do another project. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My advice would be to tape for now, and build the rest before you glue anything. Why you ask? You will still need to go through fitting it all together, and just adjusting tape is a lot easier than pulling seams apart. If you can get to an armor party in the Atlanta area you could get specific advice (worth the drive). Lou

Congratulations trooper

Great to hear that you have your BBB day on the way, Lorelei, and even better to hear that you are aiming for Centurion! Following Cricket's build thread will help you immensely, and there are several other "vertically challenged" Troopers like Shasha (shashachu) who have done outstanding builds and will be happy to help with details. The blaster is indeed a requirement for levels 2 and 3. Lots of choices to say the least! You can go Hyperfirm, 3-D printed (a lot of sanding, though), Doopydoos resin kit, etc. If you happen to run across one online, post up a link before ordering. The reason being is that some are not approvable. Amazon is an option for the undersuit. Not sure is the sizes will fit, but the prices are great. Here are some examples: Shirt: https://www.amazon.com/WANAYOU-Compression-Running-Athletic-T-Shirt/dp/B074S5GTN9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528528051&sr=8-1&keywords=womens+black+compression+shirt Pants: https://www.amazon.com/Homma-Activewear-Compression-Slimming-Leggings/dp/B07235BKW6/ref=sr_1_5?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1528528936&sr=1-5&nodeID=7147440011&psd=1&keywords=womens+black+compression+pants Best of luck on your build, and be sure to ask questions if you have any issues!

Thank you for that detailed list of needed fixes for the next level. And I want to thank you all that have helped me along the way for taking the time to review my armor and give me feedback. I’m proud to be part of the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment !!

Earlier this year, I received another chance to join the 501st in my local area as a guest trooper. It was May, the 28th and 29th at the 10th anniversary of the RPC (Role Play Convention) in Cologne, Germany. Half a year after being in armor the last time, I wanted to accept this 2-day challenge and find out what happens, when you stay suited up a bit longer… Inspected the hallways with my Officer, David (Cody42) and we were stopped many times for photos. This guy scared the crowd, so a bunch of TKs took care and maintained peace and order Later I “disposed” the individual and convinced some younglings for the Empire On the first day I was suited up for 8 hours and drank faaaar too little (400ml). When I returned home that night and cleaned the armor, I was close to collapse. Not funny if nobody else is at home in such a moment. So, for the 2nd day (another 7 hours) I stayed hydrated A little glamour shot and a “behind the scenes” picture Had to remove the butt plate for sitting on that chair, but that photo was worth it. A very big moment was to escort Kevin (here in his Vader suit) to a photo shooting with Brian Muir, who had just signed his helmet. Woah, what an honor to meet him in person. I was out of words, so I just thanked him for designing the iconic stormtrooper armor That was a mind-blowing experience and I never thought, this could be topped – or at least not very soon. But just a bit later, I stood in front of Dave Prowse himself! Wow, the man behind the mask was right there within reach - and talked to us like if we knew each others for a long time... Alex (Memory) and I helped Dave getting into that same chair for a photo shooting, but unfortunately there is no photo available. However, these special moments are the memories to preserve and share with others...

It's been a while... Time for a new picture. Just for fun (# 3) Seems like the Emperor has recently infiltrated the FISD to see, what his troopers are doing here. He does not look pleased...

Just for fun (# 2)

Update 06: - pictures in full armor Okay, I had promissed it. Guess I have to deliver now... Luckily the last picture got some nice lighting, which brings out the armor weathering very good. Let me know what you think of the result. Thanks.

Update 03: - weathering the armor People might wonder why an "idealized" armor should get any weathering at all. Well, some color deviations between armor, hand guards and boots forced me to do this. Weathering will hopefully conceal or at least reduce these. But first I concentrated on the armor itself. Decided to go for a weathering which I had seen on the TK from Stefan (Turrican). Old newspapers got soaked with water for a few minutes, then rubbed over the armor. This transferred some black ink and highlighted the edges. It was done on all parts, increasing from the helmet to the boots. It is water resistant, but can get removed with some mild plastic cleaner or with ultra-fine sandpaper. Enough words. Pictures: And the rear side: In case you haven't already seen it, here is the inside view with the standard strapping. I preferred this, because the original strapping has some visible screws in the torso. Unfortunately the camera's automatic mode changed while shooting. This caused some pictures to have warmer colors than others Any comments and critics are welcome. Please let me know, what you think of the weathering so far. Thanks in advance.