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And with that - goal achieved! Thanks everyone - this is a huge relief for me and the web team.

Time for an update... I originally toyed with the idea of using a dremel to cut a recess into the top of the counter and place a photo of the counter numbers in there. Then covering it with the "ruler" window I made. But I was really nervous about using a dremel to cut a perfect rectangle and there wouldn't be much room to get a file in there to clean the edges. So I had a new idea.... I've got some spare plexiglas scraps laying around so I cut one of these scraps to the same dimensions as the top of the counter. Then I sanded the same thickness off the top of the counter. This way when I glue this plate to the top of the counter, the counter (as a whole) will still be the correct dimensions. Using the measurements from the Hengstler template, I marked the plexiglas with the locations of the counter window and the reset button. Then I cut out the rectangle for the window and filed it down so that my ruler window would fit inside. I actually had to make a second ruler window because my first was too thin now that it was to fit inside this new top. Luckily I still had lots of ruler left. (Now there's a sentence that possibly no one has ever used before. A friend of mine and I like to pay attention to unique sentences that may be new to the world.... "Luckily I still had lots of ruler left." This might be the first time anyone has ever said those words. I decided against cutting out the area for the reset switch. There's just not much plastic between the reset hole and the window hole and I didn't want to break things. So the reset button will be glued onto the surface later. I can re-enforce it with some little nails to help stop the reset button from breaking off. Next, I borrowed SIMpixel's counter number template from his build and made a few modifications of my own using Photoshop. I had some test numbers printed out at my local photo store. This example shows two different font sizes along with white borders and no white borders. The idea is to cut out the numbers and glue them to the counter. Then glue the new counter top and window onto the top of the counter, over the numbers. And that's what is drying right now so I don't have any photos yet. Also, I may as well mention that this progress didn't go exactly as planned. For my first attempt, I ended up gluing the numbers in the wrong location and glued the top onto the counter, also in the incorrect location. I had everything upside down. Of course, I only noticed this after filling all the edges with green stuff and getting it all perfectly sanded smooth. I had to pry it all apart, sand down the glue and green stuff and start again. Luckily I printed out several counter samples and I could also reuse all the parts after sanding off the old glue. That's it for now. Mark

The part about the belt covering the gap actually bewilders me. I searched through hundreds of screen caps from the Gallery, and out of all those I found only 2 that had that gap covered. The butt/kidney connection on your armor is among the best I have seen. I will let Tony or Andrew comment on this.

Around kids, I try to be the real deal which means acting and talking like an Imperial Stormtrooper. If kids get scared, I will ease off and even take my helmet off if I think it will help. It almost always does. Around adults, it depends on the situation. If I am asked my name in either situation, I use my TK#.

Thanks Dan! Yeah, they look very similar for sure. Well, I might leave it for now and if it gets mentioned during approval I will alter the first one or two stripes, to get rid of the 'lean'. Ah f..., who am I kidding? I'm not going to leave it.

I am just a Pretzel. No backstory. Just a nickname that Garrison mates gave me. I am either Salty or Sweet

Lots of sanding and using a high build primer, first coat of silver paint is on. The end cap was a test of the black hammered paint. Can't find it in satin, so I will have to put a final coat over to tone down the semi-gloss.

Once you start building a costume you will never see the movie the same way again, even more so if you become a GML

Great work everyone, well done

Troopers helping troopers and getting stuff done! (Kept it PG) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Clever thinking with the plexi, Mark. Love the counter numbers too. Can’t wait to see more. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It really takes a lot for me to remove the helmet. I've had issues where I really wanted to remove it and did not. However, if I am terrifying a child, I will show them I am a person under that helmet. Only as a last resort. At the last con I went to, a service dog was very upset by me. The owner asked me to let the animal see me and I complied. The dog realized I was not a threat and was not intimidated by the rest of the troops. I don't remove my helmet easily, but sometimes it is necessary. Real life sometimes calls for it.

Shore. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Is that a Snowtrooper or Shoretrooper? Either are pretty awesome. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those arms look quite smart with the blue lines down. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The belt So far still need to glue everything down and work out the holster attachment. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

A little more done. Forearms, biceps and shoulder bells sized, trimmed and sanded, ready for gluing. I think anyways. Most of the back, kidney, butt are trimmed and sanded. Still have the legs to go. Also started the belt, but realized I have no mounting hardware for the holster so went went to ANOVOS and talked about that waiting to see what happens there. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

You aren't supposed to be helmet-off around cameras on official troops unless you have a good reason (interview, emergencies, etcetera). Unofficial troops, 501st group photos and the like don't count of course.

Germain's PDF should call out the correct hardware and decals? It's included with the print files:

Looking at the templets I would say Dan is in the right, photos in different angles and on a curved surface at that have a way of fooling your eyes - and....a bit contradictory to what I just said about "fooling eyes" but I would say that the pic Dan provided last is spot on - good call Dan and lastly, yes the templets I referd is less "bendy"

Very nice work trooper! Good luck!

That's twisted.

I like that tip to report lines! I never thought of using a compass as a protractor. I'll try to remember that from now on.

I’m happy to report that I finished those belt modifications to improve alignment of the 45s to the canvas and readjusted the buttons Daniel... the size of my biceps and forearms was already nagging me a bit and your observation gave me the kick I needed to resize them. Over the last 24 hours did the right forearm removing close to 3 cm at he elbow and 1.5-2 cm at the wrist. Below is a wrist on shot of the unaltered on the left vs new size on the right. As you can see I can barely get my hand through and sits comfy snug with the glove. Now to start pulling off the other cover strips. So glad I had already taken the initiative to add the inner strips [emoji35] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually, I believe you have tube-stripe eagle eyes, Dan. I think I did mess it up - but I think it is just the front stripe that I would have to redo. Good catch. Thanks!

Well, I've actually been sitting at work this whole time, so I should get back to doing something, you know, work-related. Employee of the month!

here are the stencils. You can see how the strip at the bottom (closest to the hovi mics) has a pronounced shape to it. The uncut stencil is how is arrives from Trooperbay. For reason's of stupidity, I thought they were reversed. so I switched them (cut stencil). Here is a comparison. I would have used the upper stencil for this side. Based on whatever reference pic I had at the time, this looked more right.

No - you got it right (or else I got it wrong to..naaa, can`t be it)

Well, I just got a tracking number form Mark at AP and my kit should be here in less than a week! Things are moving quicker than I expected. I have proceeded to gather build supplies and some of the soft parts and accessories. Even with contacting my local garrison, I'm still at a stand still for boots. With that said, I'm definitely looking forward to BBB day and getting started!

Regarding the knee ammo pack, here’s a screen shot. All in this shot are slightly off centre. I’ve seen other builds with them central (including mine) which have cleared Centurion, so I guess it’s more down to your preference and how your kit is moulded. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"Question is, do I centre the ammo pack to the cover strip or try to have the rivets equally spaced from the back return edge?" I put the rivets equally spaced from the back edge. I quite like how it looks. My OCD usually makes me twitch when I see stuff off centre but this doesn't bug me one bit.

That would work (RS suit)

So, just puttered for a few minutes tonight. Got the front cover strips on the shins and test fitted the ammo pack to the right thigh. I know there are standard measurements for where to drill the hole on the thigh. But I test fitted it and mine will be a bit different. Question is, do I centre the ammo pack to the cover strip or try to have the rivets equally spaced from the back return edge? Clamped on after quick hot bath. I think both side are about 12-15 mm from back return edge Shins Before I’ve managed to lose some magnets. I’m tapped out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's what I got done today. I cut the armpit line down even more and cut he bottom of the belt line off. That way I have room to bring the butt plate up under the belt. I noticed that the two halves of the belt aren't lining up right so I moved this snap down just a little. Hopefully that will do the trick. I noticed that the straps that run between the chest and back were getting caught on the kidney plate, so I trimming them down as well.

I've been getting some work done on the backpack, if you want to see more pictures of that process check out http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/topic/15485-yoshs-build/&page=3&tab=comments#comment-198969

*nods* Seeing as how I have zero Trooping experience, I'll defer to my betters. I suppose that in going from fursuiting, with my own unique costume that I designed and commissioned according to my imagination, to 501st Trooping, with a costume I made to existing specifications, I've learned to look at the armor suits in a whole different way.

Awesome job!

Just because they don’t care doesn’t we don’t have to.

You would be very surprised what spectators notice

Fantastic news, and QUICK!

I'm glad this happened so quickly and I was able to contribute. I have to say that this is the most active and helpful forum I have ever been a part of. Troopers Helping Troopers indeed.

The short answer is that we are keeping the original HWT for historical reasons (the members who have that costume would kill us if we even thought of trying to move it to MEPD). Any new HWT's are going to MEPD.

Once you get approved, don't forget to apply for Legion Access here at the FISD, Matt (easy to do)! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ Once your L.A. approval comes through, with the great job you did on that build I hope you will be applying for EI next, (and then Centurion). This info. may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

To all of my friends in stormtrooper land; Have a safe and happy MLK Day! I think MLK would be proud of us:)

Additional screws added Gun selector screw added Bottom grip screw

EIB #2 is in

Awesome. (Photos worked) Next I drilled out the lower vent holes on the main tube... I inherited a bunch of my dad's tools when he passed away. He used to be big into woodworking and jewelry making. I knew these tools would come in handy one day. He also had a flexible shaft dremel like device that you hold like a pen and the motor hangs on the wall connected by a 1 meter flexible shaft. Should make some of the cutting and grinding work easier. At this point I stopped working on the main tube and went to the Hengstler Counter. I filled a few tiny bubbles with "green stuff" and started working on the counter. The little reset button on the Doopydoo's looks wrong and I wanted a window with the numbers inside not the solid window of the Doopy's. So I sanded down the fake window and button. Sadly, I also lost the "Hengstler" text on the front, but it was so faint it would have probably filled in with paint anyway and been lost. You could barely see it on the photo... Before: After Next I needed to make a window and new button. I'm sure not a master dremel-man creating curved plexiglass using nothing but skill and a beer, but I think I've seen clear curved plastic before. A trip to my local office supply store revealed this ruler... It's got a nice curve over the blue paint... And the blue paint comes off nicely... I got the size from the FISD Reference Page. Chop-Chop, Dremel, Dremel.....one Hengstler Counter Window... Next a found I had a piece of smoked black acrylic, so I chopped this up to create the reset button. The same reference page showed the length and width of the button, but not the height. The reference page shows the reset button is 3.5mm in width and 10.5mm in length but it doesn't state the height. Does anyone know how tall the reset button of the Hengstler Counter is supposed to be? Thanks, Mark

So many builds going on right now, hard to keep track on them all and I´m quite pleased - for now Me and my son at Rogue One (not 501st approved FX kits I might add) uppdated pack on the left. . Updated the Shadow-bin Now they match

I'm so sorry to hear that. Glad you're okay, hope everyone else was too. I understand concussions can be really nasty so don't stress your brain at all. Just relax and think of happy things like rainbows and unicorns and stormtroopers blasting away at those unicorns but missing terribly. Seriously, get some rest. The armor can wait.