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Looking good so far. As a fellow TK/TX with Anovos kits might I suggest a few other areas to reinforce. The chest has a few spots where cracks occurred. I just put some scrap abs behind in those areas and it has been good since. The neck area and each side where the chest curves up, I guess the armpit area. I can get pictures if you want. Good luck with the rest of the build. Also it's not much more effort to take the Anovos to centurion. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Not much progress of late as I've been waiting for some replacement aluminium for the bracket (broke my last piece), though this has apparently gotten lost in the post, and I'm now awaiting a replacement for the replacement :/ In the meantime, I've bandaged up the barrel end that I butchered. Glued it on with epoxy to start, but then had to build it back up a bit with green stuff to hide the cracks and also replace the depth that was lost through actually cutting it off. Hours of careful sanding later I've got the shape back! You can also see the reshaped slot here for the stock to latch onto, bit more of a lightbulb shape now Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Name: Anthony (Tony) Jobe Height: 5'11" Weight: 185lbs FISD Name: ukswrath Legion ID#: 10116 Profile Page: 501st Profile Garrison: Golden Gate Build Information Armor Maker: Anovos Helmet Maker: Anovos Boots: Imperial Boots Gloves: Imperial Boots Electronics: Ukswrath's FOTK Audio Neck Seal: Anovos Blaster: JJ with electronics Build Thread: Anovos TFA TK

I will definitely be reinforcing those areas according to your suggestion. I've seen the stress cracks in other guys' build threads and I want to prevent that and any other repair work as much as possible from the get-go. Got the shoulder bells trimmed today. Insanely asymmetrical, I love it.

You, sir, have made my day. I've got plenty of EVA foam sheets lying around that I can just E6000 to the interior. PHEW!

Hi mate, Don’t panic. I’d recommend black, self adhesive EVA sheets. I used it and am really pleased with the results. I now can’t see the writing at all, but can remove the EVA if I wanted to. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Buen trabajo compañero. enhorabuena por tu rango conseguido, un abrazo y ha disfrutarlo!!!

Firstly, congratulations on getting your RS armour, it’s great to work with and looks fantastic when completed. Forearms... left has 11 indents Right has 12 indents, The inner forearms ... right has a scoop on the inside, where your elbow goes, it’s also longer than the outer piece ... also the front cover strip fits on the ridge , which makes it stand out more, the back of the armour doesn’t have ridges Biceps.... the left inside bicep has the dint in it , the right inside doesn’t have a dint Shoulder bells.... the left shoulder Bell is the one that has the little curve at the bottom of the raised ridge, the curved bit faces forward Left thigh trimmed, right thigh un-trimmed The greaves/ shins are the same for the left and right leg This was my RS armour when I got it And this is what it can end up like Hope this helps, any more questions, just ask Cheers Stephen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good, Daniel! Thumbs-in-the-belt is always good for an imposing figure. Very "American cop." That reporter had a bit of a stumble; is "walker" generally that difficult to pronounce in Swedish? I'd hate to have to change my name if I come visit...

General Information Name: Brien Edick FISD Name: Harbinger 501st ID: 92802 Profile Page: http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=26568&costumeID=124 Garrison: Central California Garrison Mandatory Information Armor Maker: ANOVOS Helmet Maker: ANOVOS Blaster Type: Praetorian Blasters ANH E-11 Additional Information Height: 5' 7" Weight: 180 lbs Boots: TKBoots Canvas Belt: TKittell Gloves: Home Depot Hand Plates: justjoseph63 Electronics: N/A Neck Seal: ANOVOS Holster: ANOVOS Build Thread: EIB Thread: Armor Photos (Click for Full Size) Full Body Front - Reduced Shoulder Gap: Full Body Back: Full Body Right: Full Body Left: Right Side Detail: Left Side Detail: Ab Button Detail: Helmet Detail Photos Helmet Front: Helmet Back: Helmet Right: Helmet Left: Helmet Hovi / Vocoder Details - Updated from EIB: Helmet S-Trim Detail: Helmet Lens Color: Helmet Right Ear/Screw Detail: Helmet Left Ear/Screw Detail: Accessory Photos Belt Front: Belt Back: Thermal Detonator Front: Thermal Detonator Back: Neckseal: Hand Guards: Boots: Blaster Right: Blaster Left: Blaster D-Ring: Armor Detail Photos Kidney Notch Right: Kidney Notch Left: Drop Box/Belt Detail: Full Inner Drop Box Detail: Shoulder Bridge Front/Back Detail: Forearms- No Return Edge: Thigh Ammo Right: Thigh Ammo Left: Thigh Ammo Rivet Detail: Sniper Knee Top - No More Gap: Sniper Knee Right - Updated from EIB: Sniper Knee Left: Cod Rivet Detail: Posterior Snap Detail: Interior Strapping - new shoulder elastic: Another Action Shot!

Panda has a good video on it...

Go for E, as well. The weathering is half the fun! I saw a painted Rubie's recently for a tiny sum and thought I'd get it for knocking around and practicing "safe carry" with. If anyone says anything about the accuracy, I'll tell them it's a cheap Corellian knock-off I confiscated from some rebel scum.

Good progress Dave. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back with a little update due to work commitments [emoji52] Gloves artived today from isd [emoji6] Great stuff [emoji106] Attached elastic to thighs utilising a black normal belt for now . Attached the elastic with poppers . Arms : Biceps . Trimmed minimal to fit . Elastics added to bicep and shoulder conection. No elastic on shoulder yet wrap around bicep There Was a oversized gap from where shoulder bell would meet shoulder bridges. Tried shortening the elastic a little but that just made the white webbing pull to one side . So a little hot water and looking much better i think :)maybe a few mm too close ? Though to move fully . Bicep needs held up as far as it will go . Mayed slightly shorter elastic bell to bicep? Just dont want it to pull on the webbing Then back to the left forearm. I havent fit the underside coverstrip yet due to sizing once bicep and shoulder were done . Do i need a little more off the bottom u think ? Quite good movement but cant move my hand too much before its bashing on the wrist end of the forearm. So thinking take a little off the bottom ? Hows it coming along Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

When you lose weight you can just make new straps. I’ve had to recently as I’ve lost a lot of weight this year. The beauty of the snaps system is that you can either replace or shorten strapping easily. Edit: I like my straps tight but not under load. This gives me maximum flex and should mean they don’t pop off under use.

Oh yeah, it’s not going anywhere. If anything, I’ll probably rig up a hinged EVA plate to make it easier to show others. Also good to know on the one-battery pack. I don’t have a power meter to verify anything, but when I tested the level of air being pushed through with one versus two fans on one batter, I really didn’t detect any noticeable difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Slight aside but are you aware that Ross was one of the 6 UKG troopers who were a first order TK in The Force Awakens? http://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/news/item/79-the-force-awakens-the-ukg-6-from-episode-vii.html

Hi Michael, I checked the draw of he fans and just went for one battery pack. 6200mah if I remember correctly. However, I did wire individual switches for each fan so I have choice of running one or two. So far, one works well for short periods. FYI, keep that autograph- Ross was a first order trooper in TFA. Not sure how many other fan based armour makers have been in one of the movies. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

just make sure to remove all of the lower lip/return edge

As soon as I saw the sharpie autograph on the inside of the helmet, I thought, "Oh no..." because I figured it would bleed through. Glad you were able to resolve this and keep the signature in tact, as well.

Congrats!

Indeed. I asked Ross to sign my lid. Mines 1.5mm ABS. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice yard... I mean, good work! Constantly inspiring.

Congrats on a beautiful build and welcome to Centurion!

Beautiful work. Good luck!

Thanks Stephen. Glad to be of assistance also

Truth be told, I'm a guitarist that just tries to play drums LOLOL! I used to play music a lot more in the past but just don't have the kind of free time to devote to it like I used to. I used to write my own material, sing, play guitar (and other instruments) and record my own material; also used to be in a few bands — but kids happened. Kids tend to throw a wrench in one's free time.

Tony, your armour looks amazing, good luck with your application, although I’m sure you don’t need it, it looks perfect Thanks for your help with mine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks this was only my 3rd troop and the 2nd was the day Before I had such a great time and can`t wait for the next opportunity

Wow. You guys looked great at that screening!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gracias, Mateu :-)

Congrats, Mateu. :-)

Just found some great pics from the local paper EDIT: I´m pointing the blaster AWAY from the youngling...a bit hard to see were I point it so just to clarify

https://imgur.com/gallery/w5MHii8

Nailed it. Thanks Stephen.

I have done some more work, this time making my own rubber backhands for my rubber gloves. Since I have the Anovos TK armor and it’s still in its uncut form, I figure why not use them as a mold. So the first things I did was use about 8 oz of Flex Seal clear and add in some Acrylic paint. This is the artist paint and not the craft kind. From an early experiment I just use the White Flex Seal but it didn’t cure all the way through. It just made a skin and under that was still Flex Seal as a liquid. Now there is something in the paint that helps cure the Flex Seal completely so I do suggest that you mix about one tablespoon of acrylic paint to 8oz of Flex Seal. Make sure you put down a release agent before you pour in the mixture. Otherwise it may not release from the mold. As you see after letting the mixture set overnight it came out beautifully once removed from the backhand mold. Now I have two perfect rubber backhands that just need to be trimmed and attached to my gloves. Since these aren’t silicone regular glue should work. I have industrial strength contact cement, Super 90 as apposed to Super 77 that I might try and use to attach them to the rubber gloves. Firs I will need to trim them a bit to get the to the correct thickness. Once they are on the gloves I will be able to black wash them to weather them up and then they will be done. Flex Seal is paintable so having the black wash stick is no problem. So there is a simple way to make Centurion level back hands using your Anovos kit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great job, Brien! Congrats! And thanks for your input during my build - and a thank you in advance for more input as I continue

Congrats Brien! Great news. You certainly have been helping me.

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

That all makes sense to me. I'll be taking a look at the screen used pieces to see where they went thinner, and of course fitting it to myself to see where adjustments make sense. I've followed the cut lines on the kit for all rough trims, and I'm checking ukswrath's thread for hints on all pieces before I begin. So far so good!

Look like Tony is already guiding you! You're in good hands! I'll stop by from time to time to hang out with you guys (online).

Centurion approved - goal met! Thanks to everyone who helped me get there. Now on to help others get there... I'm only the second Centurion in CCG, we have one other who is an ESB trooper so between us lots of knowledge for new recruits, hopefully.

Come on! It’s been 24 hours???

Can't believe I missed that! (I may be a little biased, though, lol). If you are indeed going for HWT, just PM me if you have any questions.

Hey Jeff, welcome and thank you for your EIB application. Let's take a look CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All submission photos have been posted. Your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. We have a couple minor suggestions to mention here. As mentioned by Daniel the gaps between arm armor section could stand to be tightened up a bit to even out things. We're suggesting maybe dropping the biceps 1/2"+ and reduce the gap between the biceps and forearms to 1/2". Reference photo Not sure what this is on the chest plate, extra return edge maybe. If it's return edge we're suggesting it be trimmed back. Also, the return edge appears to be considerably thick in a few areas. Return edge give the illusion of thickness but is not required in most areas. Regarding the chest plate we're suggesting you remove some as so long as it doesn't effect the bracket screw mount integrity. Reference photo Next up Back and Kidney plate gap. The back should rest atop of the kidney with minimal gap between the two. Simple strapping adjustment should resolve this. Reference photo Nice work on the Ab button paint, we only have one suggestion here and that's to trim the vertical button plat a bit. The edges should reside inside the raised area beneath it, as seen in the reference photo. Reference photo Finally the TD screws should be painted black. Easy fix here Also, your clip edges near the control panel are flared away from the tube and possible in danger of getting snagged on something. We're suggesting you maybe bend them closer. Reference photo Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. From what we can see, the only item that stands out is your drop box positioning. They should be aligned with the outer most edge of the ammo belt and just below it with little to no gap. Gluing the drop box strap to the cloth belt should help keep them in place. Also, though not a CRL requirement the drop box thickness should be roughly 10-12mm. For level three certification (if applicable): Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Reference photo Blaster, as you are already aware is not accepted at Centurion if you choose to apply. That's trooper, congratulations on a great build . We hope to see you at Centurion.

Looks like you (like me!) had the old Anovos belt. Just a FYI that you'll need to replace the cloth portion for Centurion. Also... buy more clamps and magnets than you think are needed. Way more.

Thanks, Ukswrath. That is god news; it means I may not have to start out with a 'weathered' look. And hey! You're in the GGG too!

Pre Assembly If you have any questions along the way ask. Nothing is worse than making a huge mistake because of pride. Everyone has a different skill level so take your time and enjoy the journey, it's not a race. "Measure twice, cut once" 1b. Forearms In this section I'll be making fitment measurements and further trimming of the armor at the butt connection locations prior to final assembly. The butt connection is the location where the two halves of the armor come together. Later on and a strip pf plastic (cover strip) will be glued in place connecting the two. Starting with the left forearm (#16 outer section, #18 inner section) front butt and strip section. Note: You should have been supplied with three different cover strip widths, 15mm are for the arms (front and back), 20mm are for the front of the legs (thigh and shin) and rear of the thigh, and finally 25mm for the rear calf. When I refer to a section as upper or lower visualize yourself standing, there's an upper or lower side to everything. When I refer to front and back well, you get the point . From time to time I will make reference to something called a return edge. The return edge is where the plastic makes a heavy or very sharp turn from a relatively flat or contoured area. Return edges not a requirement. Most, but not all butt connections locations have a heavy or minor return edge. Areas like this will be needed to perform a task. Other return edges, like at the upper and lower sections of the forearm for example, where the plastic curves towards your skin, give the armor the look of thickness. Return edges may be removed to increase the space between your body and the armor. Continuing on.. The front forearm butt connection was pretty close to the width of where it needed to be after the initial trimming which is around 15mm. I made a fitment check by wrapping the armor around my arm and holding it together with painter's tape. After the fitment I trimmed the armor a bit more using a exacto knife, and later fine tuned it with my belt sander. The area doesn't have to be perfect, the cover strip will hide most imperfections however, the neater the better. After trimming I rechecked the butt connection location. Important notes: It is encouraged you put on your under armor before taking any fitment measurements so that they'll be more accurate. Whether you have you under armor or not give yourself a minimum 1/2" of clearance between your body and the armor. If you don't have a 1/2", as long as it's close you still should be ok. If you have "0" clearance you might want to try removing the upper return edge material (the areas closest to your elbow), the lower will be completely removed for L3 approval anyways. If you've removed the upper return edge material and it's still to tight you may have to consider adding shims. Everyone's body structure is different. Your arms as well as other body parts may be larger or smaller than anyone else. To be perfectly clear, return edges are NOT required anywhere, but some areas can really benefit from them. If you want to go Centurion (L3) there must be NO return edge on the wrist or (lower shin) ankle. Another note: When trimming inner and outer butt connection sides of a section it is a good rule to align the upper edges of the armor first as illustrated here. In this particular section (forearms) if you have to remove any return edge material at the upper/lower ends of the armor, or add shims, do it now before you make any butt connection location cuts. The goal here is to have the front of the armor as accurate as possible. using the rear as the area to add any shims if needed. Note: The procedure just described will be a common throughout the build. Everyone's skill set is different, you can continue to follow along or skip ahead at any time. A. Fitment check B. Checking the front return edge butt connection measurements. Ready for assembly C. If the armor fits you comfortably measure the outer circumference of the forearm armor. Using fabric tape measure the upper, middle and lower sections. These measurements will be used to assist in setting up the right forearm, which by the way is shaped slightly different then the left. Upper Middle Lower Left forearm, rear butt connection area. Ready for assembly D. Right side (sections #17 outer & #19 inner). The front butt connection on the right arm is considerably different than the left arm. Trimming will require a slightly different approach. I suggest you do a fitment check first to ensure you have enough room to make the butt connection area 15mm. If you have larger forearms you may have to go a bit wider in the front butt connection area. Result of my fitment, I had plenty of room to make the required cuts at the front butt connection location. With the two haves side by side I measured the area to be cut. E. using a steel ruler as a straight edge cut along the ruler (green line) F. Remove the cut section After... After cutting both inner and outer sides this was my result. Right forearm, front butt connection location ready for assembly G. As with the left side, measure the right. Top, middle and right. Once you have the measurements you can make any cuts at the rear butt strip connection (if needed) If you notice by my measurements I needed to take off approximately 1/2" to 1/8" from top to bottom. Measured and marked the armor then cut off the excess. Rechecked fitment. Right forearm is now ready to be assembled. to be cont...

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