CableGuy

Nice work. :-) On the coverstrips, just bear in mind that they don’t always run to the longest part of the two armour sections. As below on this screen used suit (owned by RS), the bicep coverstrips run to the inner/shorter part of the bicep. If you haven’t already, the RS photos in the FISD gallery are an exceptional reference, especially when building an RS kit. Best wishes Dan :-)

Hi Rat, Thanks for your submission. Looking good, sir. At a glance, you’re currently missing a few pictures. For example; clear photo of both wrists, back and front of both shoulder bridges, close up of both hovi tips and vocoder, boots (not listed in checklist, just good to see), close up of ab buttons, backs of both drop boxes. We also need to you post the link to your EIB. It also appears that your ab to kidney strapping is loose, leaving a gap on your left hand side when worn and when off. Could you please adjust that strapping to bridge the gap. It looks like it’s achievable for you as it’s only a few millimetres. Level three certification (if applicable): Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor Thank you, Trooper. :-)

Sadly, the scammer wins. :-(

Good for you, Patrick. ;-) Moving it forward by approx 10mm should do the trick. If it helps, the existing holes in your scope rail can simply be filled with green stuff, sanded and then painted at the end. (I had to do the same). ;-)

Nice start. :-)

Nice work, Ryan. Could we please have the following photos; Helmet - right Detailed photos of thigh ammo pack (including fixings) and sniper knee. Many thanks in advance.

Nice job, Daniel. Well done.

Hi Arthur, and thank you for yet another fine build for EIB review. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armour displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantryman. On behalf of the Deployment team, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Firstly, thank you for replacing the thermal detonator screws with the required pan head, slotted screws. Firstly, thank you for addressing some of the areas highlighted by your fellow troopers, such as the frown paint. As you are aware, some are just dressing issues and could be resolved through some strapping adjustments. Such as your right shoulder bell which could be rotated inwards to close that gap a little more to match up with your left. Ref Something that has caught my eye (but will not prevent your EIB) is what appears to be warping on the sides of the kidney plate. It looks like this is where your poppers/snaps are glued to the plastic from the inside - it is possible that the glue has reacted with the poppers/snaps and caused this warping. I've highlighted this purely for the benefit of any new builds that you (or others) might take on. My understanding is that E-6000 can react with the metal poppers and cause heat - the heat can then warp the plastic. Using the original bracket and elastic method (as per the originals), using different/higher quality poppers/snaps, or ensuring that the metal and glue do not touch where the popper meets the armour (using ABS popper tabs or nylon webbing) can be ways to avoid this issue. Example of smooth kidney plate; Moving down to the belt area, whilst your your drop boxes are nicely aligned, they should be touching the plastic ammo belt. Yours, specifically your left drop box, is hanging a little loose and could do with being moved up a little. As you also mentioned, your belt is a little on the yellow side, however, in my opinion this is not a deal breaker.It still works well with your armour. Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. As you're aware, your back plate is overlapping your kidney in certain photos. Some adjustments to your strapping should resolve this and keep the two parts nicely butted against each other. (Also, just keep an eye on your thigh spacing...just a dressing issue, not an L3 requirement as such) Level three certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. Ref; And finally, there still appears to be some return edge on your wrists - these should be removed before your L3 application. Level three certification (if applicable): No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Reference; Well, Arthur - that brings us to the end of your (latest) EIB review. Congratulations on building another beautiful set of TM armour. Just a few minor changes and we hope to see you back for another Centurion soon...

Nice work. [emoji1303]

Hiya Great link from Joseph, there. The FISD Blaster Reference guide was invaluable throughout my build, and many others. Tino’s kit is also worth the investment for a more detailed build, if required. I used the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference guide, along with a few other build threads, to get through my build. I specifically found the build threads of T-Jay (Tino) to be incredibly helpful for tips and tricks. He also goes into paint options. My own blaster (video and build thread links in my signature) used 4 different paints. Grey primer, silver undercoat, hammer black, Matt black top coat, brass for scope and part of counter. The application of these paints, and to which parts of the blaster in which order, are included in my build thread. Personally, I only used spray paints so brushes were not required. Glue - many parts are screwed to the tube. Glue can be used at the very end to add extra stability. Super glue for some parts. E6000 for others. A Dremel is also an E-11 blaster builder’s friend. Any other questions, do feel free to shout. Best wishes Dan

Run as far away as you can from this one. The pictures are from various sources so you could get anything. There are usually two things we recommend about buying armour; 1. avoid Ebay 2. Check the vetted sellers list. The vetted seller are listed for very good reasons. Best wishes Dan

Nice work, Rodney. Welcome to EI. :-)

Lol. As you said in your other thread, never doing anything the easy way. ;-)

Hiya, This is a handy resource. The ab buttons use the same colours as the helmet. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39650-anh-paint-colour-guide/

As they were all hand painted, each will be a little bit differs. However, as you say, this one has a little of each raised circle unpainted. As if by magic, this is probably what you were thinking of. Just bear in mind, this might vary a little from armour maker to armour maker. For example, AP has very large buttons.

Hiya. Here’s a lovely screen used example. :-)

Same here, sir. Ordered rubber gloves one size larger than I needed, then wear them with cotton under gloves. No trouble at troops, plus they look awesome. :-)

Hi Peter. I can’t see your location on your profile but many armours can be shipped anyway. RS Prop Masters and Troopermaster are two of the best armours available and both do commissions, built to your measurements. They might be a good place to start. :-)

Hi Grant, You’d need to make ABS paste to make the seam seamless. Here’s a link to a previous TKUK build to give you an idea of what’s required for clearance. http://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=69462 You’d also do well to start your WIP (work in progress) thread on the UKG forum. Whilst we’re more than happy to help you here at the FISD, the UKG armourers will be the ones to help you meet the required standards for basic clearance. Hope that helps a little. Dan

You’re in good hands here, Jim. Great advice all round. A little extra thing, your butt plate is coming away from the kidney on your right - this could just need a simple strapping adjustment. Might be worth posting your photos (plus some more detailed pics) in the Pre-Approval area. As Daniel said, the more eyes the better. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/191-tk-pre-approvals/ Having said that, based on the feedback so far, I really don’t think you’ll have a lot to worry about. :-) Dan

The Dans!! [emoji1][emoji1303]

Nice work, Jim! Just looked back over your thread, (wow, Sept 2016!!) and you’ve made a really nice job of that lid. :-) Your armour is also looking really good. A lovely fit on you. [emoji1303] As the topic of suggestions and EIB/Centurion came up, I hope you don’t mind me making a couple of suggestions. These are simple changes that will go a long way. :-) Firstly, the coverstrips on the front and rear of the thighs stop at the ridge; The drop boxes should be touching the plastic ammo belt, and the outer edges of the drop boxes aligned with the outer edges of the ammo belt - shortening your elastics should sort this; Finally, it looks like your smaller ab button might be a little large. A simple trim would take this up a notch; Really simple changes, but you’re looking smart! I’m sure basic will be a breeze for you, then on to EIB and Centurion! Keep up the great work, Jim. :-) Dan

Never fear - it’s very good stuff. If it were like superglue, it would dry and go brittle. This would be bad. E6000 cures to be slightly rubbery. This keeps a good hold but allows some flex. :-)

Sorry Jack - I forgot to post the link to the video I mentioned...( going mad...) Now added to my previous post, and here for good measure; [emoji2957]

Hey Jack, Whilst the lower rivet is common, the lower ear screws can also do the same job. When the ears are screwed into place, they help to bring the front and back of the helmet together. Whilst this is a different make of armour (Ross of RWA), the video might give you an overview of how some people put the ears on. You’ll notice that only one rivet is used - the rest is done with the three screws. Dan :-)