Harbinger

I agree on the shoulder bell gap, if we are quantifying DO asks then what about the belt/ab button height? Something like: The top of the belt should sit just below the bottom button of the central abdomen button panel ? I'd say make it L2 as really how hard is it to make the belt sit higher/lower if you are building your kit... but of course it is up to you guys if it should be L3.

I prefer silicone, I'm all for idealized screen accuracy. If Lucas had access to white Chelsea boots and silicone hand plates he'd have likely gone with those.

Should any language be added regarding non-symmetry of shoulder bells/biceps? I feel at the least, specifying bump=left for biceps may help new recruits, seen a couple TKs make it to our GML with the biceps reversed.

Works for me!

I would say leave it as-is... you can see the elastic, and L2/3 are about what you can see, so...

Those look like single cap backs no?

So on further inspection it looks like the last bullet item of any L2/3 section is always black (the rest are blue/red), wiki formatting bug?

I bought a rubber blaster for trooping, but plenty of people troop with more delicate ones. Just be careful!

Good luck Luc!

@Daetrin You have the same description for th stunt and hero holster rivets. Also something wonky going on with bullet point colorization (some are black, others blue/red and not matching the corresponding text).

What’s the rush?

Not for Centurion. (Velcro, coverstrips maybe?)

Nicely done.

I'd drop the plural on the Service/Achievement/EIB mouseovers, otherwise looks good to me.

Well you or Mathias would need to add mouseover text, as for a ‘forum how-to’ keep the suggestions coming on what you all want to see.

Welcome to the Legion. Nice work. On to EI!

New end cap has been printed, speaker fits great:

I think if the CRL allows weathering in addition to specific language, as Tony points out, photo reference is a must. Otherwise you are bound to get people who go too far and run into approval issues.

What about clean HWT at L2 and above? A guy can dream!

Congrats Greg!

Yep, TD is just a dirty TK after all.

To be completely honest, this isn't a hobby that goes well with cheap... $400 barely covers a helmet for many costumes. I would work on saving up until you can afford a proper set of armor from a vetted maker. I'm not trying to deter you - I fully hope you'll join the dark side! - but literally every single time I've seen someone try to cheap out on a costume they end up spending just as much - or more - as if they'd just done it right from the beginning. As for 1313 Boba Fett, seeing as the game was cancelled I'm not sure where it falls, but I would ask BHG (Bounty Hunter's Guild) as they would be the detachment that would handle that costume: http://thebhg.net/

I need a liner for my forthcoming FOTK too. May be time to start a new thread? PS: Could always sell the rest on RPF if you can’t find enough buyers here, although I’m pretty sure you will.

You can also get rolls of adhesive backed foam in the weatherproofing section of Home Depot/Lowe’s/etc. Usually 1/2” and 1” thick.

Time for a new project! I've always liked the look of the SE-14R so I decided it was time to make one of my own. I also wanted something with lights and sounds, as my Hyperfirm has none, but didn't want to put a lot of time or effort into doing so. I started of by printing this blaster: THINGIVERSE ----------- I've had to modify a few parts to allow for adding electronics. I bought a cheap blaster from the dollar store that I plan to transplant into this blaster: After opening it up (and tossing the housing) I am left with a speaker, an LED diode and a battery pack (which I cut out of the plastic handle): Now that I knew what I had to work with, it's time to start modifying the print files. First I had to make room for batteries in the magazine receiver, which was easily accomplished with a dremel and some Apoxie Sculpt: I did the same to the frame, so I can wire in the circuit board and a toggle switch for the trigger (not pictured, sorry!). The LED diode will sit at the end of the barrel (may see if I can easily swap in a larger/brighter one without having to redo everything - I'm going for a no-frills, budget approach to lights and sound!), and I figured I would put the speaker at the other end. To do so, the end cap must be modified to make room for the speaker. It will also need a grille for sound to escape: I plan on covering the opening with speaker cloth, but even so, I couldn't help myself. Another thing I had to do was print the barrel in two parts and glue them together (used a piece of plastic rod to reinforce the joint): I also picked up the correct scope off of eBay for $8 (also pictured is some other stuff, new build thread coming soon!): Hoping to get the new end cap printed up tonight, figure out where I need to drill holes in the barrel/frame for wires, and then I should be good-to-go with sanding/filling/priming.