themaninthesuitcase

This pops up from time to time, looks like they've changed the text though. If it was legit I'd say the price was fair.

There's a reasonable chance this changes are to stunt helmets to allow for better vision for the stunt men. The hero helmets wouldn't have been changed if that was the case.

This sucks, there can't be a huge market for these so it's not like they can shift it without someone noticing.

Nice work. How's that 3rd fan affect things? I tend to only run 1 fan even at the excel but it does mans I end up a shade deaf on that side by the end of the day. If I can balance that it would be nice.

Welcome back to the DL post. Sounds like we have a busy 12 months ahead of us and I am certainly willing to help you where I can. In the words of my garrisons founder: "Let's go to work"

Thanks Paul, I was only joking about this in contrats post I did plan to bump this (and something else) but I planned to give you a week to settle back in first.

Metric screws tend to be based on standards, at least here, so if you get an M3.5 slotted countersink with it will comply with DIN963 which sets the sizes for everything. But as said the only real crucial dimension is that head diameter, if its in the 6-7mm range, flat and has a slot I'd say it would be good enough unless you're going for a replica. As you're in the UK I used these: https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/metric-brass-countersunk-slotted-head-machine-screws-m3-m4-m6/ They are a touch long so will need to be cut down. You will also want some washers and metric course nuts for them.

This image might help with finding an appropriate fabric. I took it at CE, click through for a full size image and downloads are allowed. Rogue One Stormtrooper Reference CE 2016 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

The attention to detail in such a small part is excellent to see, makes me want to start a new build!

Don't they believe in washing their hands? Yes you still get a bit sweaty, ok a lot sweaty, but it's not uncomfortable and nothing a bit of soap won't fix before lunch.

I just use moisturising gloves, cheap as chips but do the job just fine. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Pairs-100-Cotton-General-Purpose-Moisturising-Lining-White-Gloves-Beauty-New-/201464865282?hash=item2ee83de202:g:HZ0AAOSw5VFWQdukthat's the sort of thing I mean.

I wear some basic cotton gloves with rubber for every troop and it's fine even with an 8 hour day in them. Granted I don't live somewhere super hot but the convention halls get plenty hot once a few thousand people fill them. I do have a few pairs and if the liners get super gross I'll change them during the day. They are cheap enough to keep several pairs in my box.

To get the glue off I let it dry then rubbed it off, with either a finger or an off cut of the abs depending how much and how sore my finger was.

Not sure how I missed this but glad I've found it now! Really nice build so far! I started working on a pipe build first but using PVC which failed. More recently I started a fusion project just like this but quickly realised a hand drill wasn't going to cut it for this project. I'll be watching this with interest as I do want to start it again at some point! Would be excellent if you could share some of the accurate dimensions of the templates are off. I have a doopy doo but I'm not sure how accurate the castings will be for some stuff.

Seems like a lot of money, I probably paid around half that for all the items and I have elastics and snaps to spare.

The 501st isn't a replica club, it's a costuming club. With this in mind sometimes accurate isn't as important as uniform. These days that #14 blue is what people are looking for and deviating from that might just give you a headache come clearance. Not saying the colours are 100% right, just what's currently the going choices. The exact paint used isn't known but there's been various changes over the last couple of decades as to what we use, a quick search should find 2 different diagrams like the one I did above with different blues on than what I have.

Hi, I'm on my phone so I can't see if you've filled in where you are but are you in the UK? Just that listing is in the uk. If so I'll be able to point you to some vendors that will see you right.

Nicely done Doug, the more I see these CfO ROTJ the more they grown on me.

That looks realy really nice!

You did a good job on the grey but I think the black lines look a bit messy on all bar the first image. Maybe use a thinner, but longer, brush. The thin keeps the line width down and a longer bristle will hold more paint between reloads so you can get more of a stroke.

Good luck chap, though I should hope this ones a formality this time!

Great work as always, nice to see my bit linked too as well!

Was the it the pink nail polish remover? They dye may have dyed the helmet. I'd be trying Isopropanol, White spirit/mineral spirits or Humbrol enamel thinners. I used these to remove the Anovos paint and decals on my helmet but test on some scrap first. For what it's worth I think a full hand paint job looks nicer than the factory job.

I went back to the images I took before I posted and you have really done an excellent job on it. The armour is a complete mess of damage, I'm guessing due to hard use on set rather than deliberate weathering. I suspect the armour was far more like the helmet at the start of filming but where they used black materials the on set damage just adds to the end result we saw at CE. I'll soon be doing a 3D printed helmet (which I hope to cast) so I'll certainly be following your updated tips.

Are the changes somewhere public? If people already know they will miss the deadline then they may as well work to the updated CRL.