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Everything posted by themaninthesuitcase

  1. Account deleted as requested.
  2. Even if it's no use for armour you'll use it, it's handy to have around!
  3. https://www.wirelessmadness.com/bob-smith-industries-un-cure-ca-debonder-1oz-bsi161
  4. Account deleted as requested.
  5. For reference nothing is automatically 501st approved. It needs to be built to the standards and to fit the wearer correctly. Some suits will make this easier than others, RS would be. good starting point.
  6. Hi David, There was a security update that made that change. Your user name is public so some one already has half what they need to get into any account. If you message me what you think your other accounts email is then we can start figuring out what the issue is. Thanks. Chris.
  7. I like to use "poor mans fibreglass" for repairs. It's quick and very solid. I try to tack the fabric in place first with a few dots, then once happy flood it afterwards. Don't be tempted to use accelerator though, it can yellow the armour.
  8. Perfect is the enemy of done. Looks like you've done really well, and I look forward to seeing further iterations. Spoken as some one who can't ever leave things alone and has piles of versions of stuff literally next to him.
  9. I've cleaned (the outside) my armour exactly once. It's covered in marks and scrapes. I know they are there but on a troop no one will notice them. Some spend hours cleaning and inspecting after each troop, I am not that person!
  10. Hi welcome to the FISD Once you’ve had a look at the links above but before you buy anything head over to the UK garrison and have a chat with our armourer team with what you intend to do. This can help prevent any nasty surprises down the line. We’re pretty lucky to have some excellent armour makers in the UK so there will be some good options for you without needing to worry about import issues which is nice given the current state of things.
  11. The best way I've used for this is to upload to YouTube and have them as an unlisted video. If you then copy the link here it should auto embed if you use a browser (not tapa talk) Nope, you'll need to keep it hidden I am afraid. Most people in the UKG have them inside the chest plate. I don't have a tramp (too spendy for me) but after a few options I've ended up with just a speaker in my chest and a mic. I don't worry about effects as they always ended up being more trouble than it was worth.
  12. It's been super weird seeing peoples photos from MCM this year having not been there. Looks like you all had a good time and hopefully I'll be back with you next year.
  13. Thanks Germain, I've got those now. Baked in or not the step file hopefully will be a bit easier than working on the raw meshes which can be really slow for tasks like Booleans and so on. If I need to make any further modifications I'll see how I get on with these.
  14. How are you judging what it sounds like? What you are hearing in a helmet is nothing like what others hear. Are you taking video or similar?
  15. It would be nice to have them if you don't mind! Some of the mods get very slow in fusion working with the meshes so if I was to go back again having the step would probably speed things up a lot!
  16. Hi Ben, Welcome to the FISD. I am also in Hertfordshire (Hemel) so any questions do feel free to PM me! I haven't done the new induction process as that's new this year but trooping I can help with! Trading cards wise there's 2 real options, we have UKG ones (here) and there are FISD ones (here). Personally I have UKG ones, if you want one drop me your address in a PM and I'll post you a couple. You may need some extra permissions for accessing them (which may need to you to complete the induction for the UKG) so if you have issues let me know. Guess I should go look up what the new induction process is! Chris. FISD DCOG and attaché for UKG.
  17. There’s a long running issue with Thingiverse when you use download all where that happens on certain things. If you just download the individual files they should work just fine.
  18. I have a printer so if you send some dimensions and stuff I can come up with something for you.
  19. Those look good, a shroud could be knocked up to hide that gap.
  20. 12x12 square push is proving a hard to source. I found some "lens cap" style buttons but they are industrial style and you're looking at £7 ish each for the lense and a switch, and it's a bulky swich. Lot's of options at 15mm though, do you have some measurements from the printed ones? If you can use a momentary then you could probably use a small tactile and we could design a 3D printed Cap for it.
  21. Bit of progress on this: I started to paint the grip section. First was 2-3 coats of satin black to act as the base coat. I then carefully masked this up to spray the white grips. I used a mix of Tamiya and Frog Tape for this. I like these as they stick well, don't really bleed but also come off easy when done. I then covered the bulk with some decorators masking film. I did a bit of a bad job on the butt and got some over spray I also had a few small corners that were tricky to mask and so were not as clean as I wanted in the tight corners. To fix the butt I carefully masked along the edges and then sanded with some 2000 grit to remove the worst and re-key the surface. I then just lightly dusted with more satin black until I got a nice finish. This has left a more of less seamless paint repair. To fix the smaller corners I sprayed some of the spray paint into a cup, you don't need to spray much as you get a surprising amount quickly. Then I used a small brush to touch up the bits I needed. The paint is pretty thin so you make need to do a second coat on a few bits if needed. If you want to re-use the brush then you'll need to use something like IPA to clean it before it dries and ruins the brush. I also painted the "Visor" (Sight?) assembly with satin black. I then added the wheel and pinned it in place with some brass wire. To cover the hole I used a drop of 3d printing UV resin and cured it with a small UV torch. This was then sanded flush, a small bubble filled and sanded again. A quick pass with the spray can and this part will be done. Finally after doing a new trigger for my F-11D I decided to do a new one for this too. It's based on a real Glock trigger, though a little simplified. I just wanted something a little more realistic looking as the supplied ones are a little chunky and this seems to be a nice medium. I've done a resin version, which needs to be cleaned, which will hopefully look a bit nicer. I've not decided if I will clear coat the white yet. The First order stuff is all gloss, but not a ultra high gloss. Basically "from the mould", not polished. The gloss paint seems to match this far better than a clear coated white but I'll be losing some durability this way. That said the un-clearcoated gloss black on my E-11 is still going strong after a few years so maybe it will be fine?
  22. Hi Tom, There is a list of vendors we keep that has proved reliable before, and there’s currently one FO vendor listed. This isn’t by any means a complete list, having a look at the more recent build threads might also be helpful.
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