themaninthesuitcase

I've started down a rabbit hole...This is going to end expensively isn't it. Looking at the few images I've found only this Mk2 is build in a sort of hybrid ESB//ROTJ way ie no ear screws. That last detail is interesting as it would mean it would fail at ESB level clearance. Seeing as I now want one of these I'll have to start digging up some more reference images.

I didn't realise when I saw these on FB they had heritage! Is that carbon chaber shot the one it's traced back to? edit: just relised that was posted by some one else Have you been able to screen match the origional at all?

I'm going to point you at this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38117-clints-fnarmour-analysis/?hl=%2Bclint+%2Banalysis Essentially it's a copy of anothers work which is highly frowned upon as it's taking other peoples work.

but then I'd have to kill you [emoji6]

I have about 5ish mm returns on the Chest, Ab, kidney and butt faces where they butt up.

The ISD is a solid mainstay in the UKG supply chain. I have the silicone handguards, the neck seals are good (saw one at the weekend) and the boots are too from what I've heard.

Was having a browse if you're latest updates on UKG last night. Helmet looks cracking.

Here there's the offence of careless driving and I'm pretty sure wearing a bucket to drive would get you nicked for that. Even IF it's legal it's still incredibly reckless to endanger yourself and others.

I know a couple of people with the RS commisions (1 TK & 1 TB) and the fit on both was excellent. When you order they ask for measurements I believe to get it right. Down sides: It's more expensive the TK came with some yellowing of the ABS where they used a glue acclerator. He did complain but not sure what happened. You didn't build it so when you need to make some repairs, which you will, you won't be as experianced with the materials and techniques. Pros will be you don't need the space and time to build it or the large pile of "other bits" people forget and all add to the cost. I wouldn't worry about clearance, so long as the measurements are right and so the fit good even the pickiest GML shouldn't find issue with an RS. I personally enjoyed building my suit but I also know it's not for everyone.

The RWA is a nice kit, and the maker is a great chap. He's helped me a lot with my build which isn't even made by him.

I think there's a lot of parts on the new armours that will need to be cast, the back plate details being a perfect example. The actual armour it's self looked to be molded in some way, just vac forming is what the market is current set up for and is what people know.

What's it printed in, semiflex?

Sounds like you'll do fine. Slow and steady is definitly the way with this. On mine I swapped between the armour and Doopy kits to keep things a bit varied. Have a ready through some of the build threads for the DD, they can be brought to a near perfect replica state if you want to. Don't feel you need to especially for a trooping blaster. Make sure you ask any questions before cutting or gluing bits and you'll be fine.

Not sure I follow? What kits do you mean?

Rogue One Stormtrooper Reference CE 2016 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr The under suit is similar to the DT and ST under suits, not rubber definitely fabric, and of course different fabric to both the others. Construction seems to be ribbed for elbow, knees, shoulders and top arms (assume whole arm?), chest and neck seal. As with the shore trooper there's a mesh section under the armpits. It appears that the hip section is smooth with no ribbing. Full gallery of images submitted in evidence: https://www.flickr.com/photos/themaninthesuitcase/albums/72157671098462536/with/28268756232/

I belive this is because the original suit they own has, wait for it, 2 left shins! I don't think so, they look fine. Look at this reference image, you can see theres a small lip most the way round. I would also say your ear gaps are completely fine as is. For a tutorial on painting the traps I did one for my bucket here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/?p=479783 if you scroll up a few posts you'll see how I did the tears too. When doing the tube templates you really do need to burnish them down and seal them. I preferred to use clear rather than white as white is notoriously hard to colour match and stands out when it doesn't. Let the clear dry as per the tin, for my Humbrol this was 6 hours. I think if you scroll up a few more posts you'll find how I did my tube stripes. What you use to remove the old paint will depend on what you used. Be careful to test what ever product first on an offcut to ensure that it doesn't damage the plastic or make it brittle.

Looks like the image address is a bit messed up. Are you trying to put multiple images in one [ img ] [/ img] tag? You can only have on in each, so if you have multiple images you will need one set of img tags for each image.

I've got to pick up some craft supplies tomorrow so I might see if I can get a black fabric marker to save me on that last bit of acetone rubbing.

That would certainly affect shipping and possibly breach a "band". But if thats the case, why not offer a chepaer slower option as well as air mail. If I've waiting 12 months whats another 6 weeks for a container on a ship? I've been takling to someone on their FB pages and have been pointing to the issues with delayed shipping payment/pricing. It's a nice idea but they need a reasonably accurate estimate up front, they guess too low and people may not be able to pay the final bill and have to cancel, guess too high and people won't order in the first place.

I'm out of this one too, the shipping and taxes wiill probably come to more than the $675 the kits costs which I just cannot support going forwards. The OT TK was only $130 shipping so not sure how it's suddenly 3.5x more expensive for what must be a similar size and weight box.

I had a similar issue when I first suited up. Removing most the return on the toop allowed me to pull the thighs up that little bit more and made all the difference, I don't even need cresants now. Though as joseph suggests get everything else done first. Final adjustments for fit and comfort need to be done as a whole really.

I've been following their work in a shoretrooper group on Facebook, seems like a nice guy but I can't tell you if it's any good yet as no one has any.

If you're perscription isn't too strong just go with out. I wear glasses normally but don't bother in armour. The visor isn't great and messes with the view anyway. When trooping you will have a spotter to help guide you too, some other costumes may as well be blind!

This is how I did my traps: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/?p=479783 For the lines around the edge, I just took my time. Braced up as well as I could and even then I made mistakes. Just have some kitchen roll handy and a bit of the appropriate thinners, though go easy on this. If you make a mistake, I made several, wipe away straight away. As the base grey is dry a quick wipe won't hurt it but will take away the wet paint with out issue. if you're worried practice on a scrap piece. Alot of the trick is getting the right amount of paint onto the brush.

Just had to look at the CRLs to see what the commander was, but I think I prefer it to the standard snow trooper. Is the face mask on it a vac formed part or a vinyl part like the trooper?