I have carefully removed the forehead, snout and lens of the Anovos helmet to make painting a little bit more easier.I have sanded back the previous paint application with sanding blocks.
Starting off with a grey primer.
For the brown this time around I am using Halfords Ford Rio Brown.
As we know the texture was applied using the beige so the rio brown needs to be flat and smooth to repicate the dark brown resin that the ST armour was cast in and is visible showing through from underneath the beige in a lot of reference pictures.
There are some parts of the ST helmet that appear not to be textured so I carefully mask the following areas.
Notches on the cheeks.
Bands on the temple.
Vents on the rear and 2 longer vents at lower rear.
Small ovals on each ear.
Vent inside each ear.
Recessed detail above lens under forehead.
Note that I have used torn masking tape to recreate the paint damaged effect seen immediately above the blast shield rims of the Screen used helmets.
I use liquid mask in some parts where its tricky to get tape positioned.
Once all the areas are masked I use a clear lacquer to gloss the dark brown.
When the gloss lacquer is dry the areas where I want the paint flakes to appear are masked using Humbrol masking fluid.
For personal preference I have painted these harder to hit places first with sahara beige straight from the can just to get some proper coverage on them before I start with the texture.
From a reliable source I was informed the texture of the ST helmets was applied through a paint gun. The paint was colour matched to the Montana Gold Sahara Beige then somehow I suspect using the settings on the gun the paint was allowed to be texturised. I want to try and mimic that process without using off the shelf texture paints.These Montana paints are used for graffiti and already the pressure is low when the paint is dispensed. I have switched out the standard nozzle for another that will splatter the paint. I want it to drizzle from the nozzle and not to be too atomised when it leaves the can.
You can see how the paint is laying. I will build up the layers trying to keep them even despite the low pressure and tricky nozzle wanting to flood areas. It is a messy process but effective.
You can see the texture is soft and not gritty.
I do not want a gritty or coarse finish. The texture should be loose to allow the muck to sit in it correctly when I start to weather it.
Once the beige is dry I can get the emblem on the forehead.
The horizontal lines of the cut out in the emblem should sit at the same angle as the horizontal bands on the side of the helmet. These are good guides for achieving the correct orientation of the emblem.
Peel.I remove the rest of the masking tape and fluid then paint the black details in.
The snout, lens and forehead can be put back.
These are the tools I use for weathering/ageing the helmet. I do not want to fiddle too much however I want a lot of muck and damage on the bucket whilst keeping the marks true to what is seen on the displayed costumes.
The muck sits in the recesses of the textured paint.
A variety of mark making around the bucket will give an authentic appearance.40 grit sandpaper by hand and belt sander will tear away paint to create the scuff marks and the masked areas once peeled will reveal the paint chips.
A comparrison picture of the my finished helmet on the left and the screen used on the right.
It is a much more accurate paint app than my previous attempt so I am happier with it.
The texture is a lot softer than beofre and the weathering is applied with confodence using broad strokes I hope achieveing a more convincing dirty look rather than a painted one.