themaninthesuitcase

I'm there on Saturday so hopefully see you then.

The stuff most use round this way is SW150 http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=4

Welcome TK-42413! Gaps a bit on the wide side for centurion, shorten them a little and it will close that gap and make Tony and/or Andrew happy CRL allows for a small gap (12mm 1/2") at EIB, but "Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor." for centurion. From what I saw your at about that 1/2" gap. I'm no DO but other than that there's nothing obvious for levels 2/3. Get that EIB application in! Induction in London? MCM Expo should be up for sign up soon!

They aren't the easiest things to open but you do get used to them. Slowly.

I'll add those to the album too.

Over my time coveting, building and then being a TK I've built up a large collection of 'Billgrams'. I keep getting asked for where they come from (anywhere I saw them, a couple direct from him on my WIP). So to save people the hunting I present to thee my collection. I'll try keep it updated as I find them. In a few cases there's multiple version, in these cases I will only have the most up to date version to save on confusion. I'm also providing the click through links to flickr so you can get at the original files as I have (some will be 3rd or 4th hand I am sure!) Finally, some of these have exact measurements on them. Don't blindly follow them, check them on your armour brand, ensure it looks right. If in doubt ask. To quote the man himself: Paint colours (though see this thread for a more up to date one I did: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39650-anh-paint-colour-guide/) Helmet - Colours Helmet - ANH vs ESB Helmet - Padding Helmet - Frown_Mesh Strapping suggestions Snap positions - Front Snap positions - Rear Snap positions - Limbs Snap positions - Arm Arm - Strapping Armour Ab - Kidney Rivets Single Snap Thigh - Single cap rivets Thigh - Ammo Pack Bicep - Adjustment Armour - repair Belt Belt- Trim dimensions Belt - holster position Belt - drop boxes Belt - snap mounts Belt - Popper holster mount Belt - which side Belt - corners Belt-Popper Locations Drop Box - Dimensions Misc Ab Plate - Dimensions TD sizes

Well done Martyn, looks great. All the hard works paying off! Just had a nose over on the UKG at the full clearance photos (and your E-11) and looks like you'll be good for EIB, a small hitch in on the ab-kidney elastics and you'll probably be on for Centurion. Ideally get this done before you're branded! Best done BEFORE you scratch the crap out of your kidney I have a large collection of them, I'll post a thread somewhere handy. As I find more I'll edit the post.

Yeah SLA isn't great for itterating, unless you're loaded! Though theres a new WanHao DLP machine that might make the machine affordable at least. I'l be lookign at running at least some parts as a more detailed material, even SLS might be better for some but clean up is a pain. I did some of my E-11 parts in SLS and painting is awkward.

For the pin I'd find the closest available aluminium or brass rod to cut to size. I'd assume it's an Imperial size so eBay would probably provide. Some of the parts on this are tiny, begging to be SLA printed to ensure the detail remains.

I'm going to say go higher. The anovos kit is really well made and EIB is basically a trivial amount of work more than basic. The only real issue is some helmets had over spray on the frown and the 2 extra rivets on the belt. All the rest will be great as it comes. Centurion is a little more work from there, but again not alot. Mostly it's the gloves and flexable hand plates and a bit pickier in a few places. If you've not done so read through a few builds, mine Anovos build is linked in my signature, also Ukswraths build is pinned somewhere. Also have alook at a few EIB and Centurion posts, theres really not alot of extra work to do (well unless you need to shim) to get these awards if you build it right in the first place. I started with the same attitude as you but very quickly changed my mind, lost some weight and got my Centurion award. None of my returns are much more than 5mm (1/4" ish) some are FAR less. On my arms the returns are around 3-4mm I think.

My armours not exactly clean, more well loved. Also don't mention pauldrons, touchy subject.

I'm no FO expert by a long shot, but it looks well made at least. They grey primer is making it look odd though. I'm also not sure that them painting it is a good thing, you're paying for a finish that you're never going to match a helmet to. Odd they're only offering 5, unless that's just this run. Seems a shame to go to all that effort and only make 5. Also doesn't sound like its a complete kit or fully molded yet. They are UK based, wonder where they are. £700 is a lot to throw down sight unseen. I've had a poke through their post history and it doesn't look like they've done a successful run yet, never mind one on this scale.

A picture is worth 1000 words, so have 2. Audio system fitted in chest plate by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr And wireless mic is in like this though I've also got velcro at the end of the boom now to stop it moving. Front fans, battery and mic locations by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Wired mic as I mentioned replaces the thing plugged into the green one. I don't have a photo but headset mic on, then I put on my balaclava and neck seal (goes round the neck) wire runs down inside and comes out in the chest. The connections get pulled on a bit so the pop and crackle which is why I'm using the wireless again. The speaker I use is this one which is where the headset mic came from ebay (I don't know what seller I used this was the first that came up when I searched, probably can be found cheaper if you look)

There's a couple of shorter women in my garrsion who are TK, once kitted up you'd never know. One has the chest plate at a slight angle but you'd need to know to tell. It's all in the fitting and there's actually a reasonable amount of room in the chest plate. Building your own armour is always what I'd recommend. Start reading now, have a poke through the various builds and ask questions. Most armours are, within reason, the same so other then a few details due to female anatomy differences you don't need to focus on anything specific. Even then some of us guys have the same shape issues in places. Read through the getting started section, and ask questions. As for the sound theres a few options but roughly: Mic in the helmet, speaker is usually in the chest cavity and optionally some means to do the voice changing and static clicks. Some people fit it all inside the helmet with speakers in the hovi tips. I use a wireless mic velcro'd in my helmet but also have a wired one. Speaker is an Aker unit in the left of my chest, iphone running an app on the right. My wired mic is a backup, this would go on before my balacla and neck seal, wire runs down inside those and simply plugs in. I use an iPhone app for the voice changing but there's dedicates boxes and even an all in one system. My personal recomendation at the moment is the Tramp (Trooper Amp), not the cheapest but the all in one means less wires to pop and crackle. Also have a look at TrooperTalk, TK Talkie, iComm and Rom-FX. If you have any specific questions ask them and I can be more detailed, this was a bit of a gloss over.

I'm really enjoying this build. Havign the real parts to measure up is really giving you great results.

£5 is probably as good as your going to get for a single piece. How thick is it and what material?

This looks amazing!

And here I am using a towel!

I kind of opened a can of worms there didn't I with my reply. I personally don't like pauldrons unless you're a sandy, can't tell you why must be something to do with colour contrast on a clean TK. That said, if you like them and your unit lets you use them for some events I'm not going to be the one to tell you that you can't wear it.

A really awesome design, well done.

I don't have RS but Anovos but I had a similar issue, from what I am told the Anovos ones are very similar to RS. One of them has a definite twist to it, not just me several have had this. I use the hook method to close them which helps but they still have a small misalignment, but it wasn't an issue at clearance not 1 person has ever mentioned it. I suppose with velcro you could force it into line but then you're loading the part which can't be good for longer periods. Some have used warm water to slowly reshape the plastic but I don't think it's worth the effort given how small the difference is.

Those thighs need a fair adjustment, ones around 90 degrees twisted. The cover strip should run down the front of the leg. I had a similar issue initial, it turned out it was the elastic was too long allowing the armour to twist. Once sorted it looked better and also wore higher up so was easier to walk.

When ever a company says Q1 or H1 or something like that always take it as they will use every single day of that time. I remember with my kit people were getting upset as it was due "Winter 2015", but the Winter of 2015 will run well into 2016. In that case it was Feb 2016 when it shipped. Vague timescales are important for a company like this that is reliant on exported labour which then has to be transported across an ocean before final distribution. All of which is hard to control and liable to delays.

Hi Dave, where abouts are you? The first two you've listed are worth further investigation, the last isn't. Building a kit isn't as hard as it looks and can be done with a little time, care and help. If you let us know where you are you might even be able to meet up with someone and get some hands on guidance. Welcome to the FISD. Chris.

It's not that different to requiring they post in the correct sub-forum. When they get it wrong the mods have a job to do either way. All that said I do see the advantage of being able to go "lets see what an RS build is like" or any of the dozen or so makers there are.