themaninthesuitcase

It's not as a big deal for you in the US but I'll mention it anyway that shipping can be brutal for a single part, especially in Europe. I can order one of everything and postage is about 1/3rd of the cost.

I have also just published the v1.1 power cylinders based on feed back from T-Jay who was able to compare them with some playfulwolfcub replicas. These change a few dimensions, the biggest being the rear length of capacitors. I've also added a few details and tweaked a number of small dimensions. Other changes include a simulated bend on the plate, increased bore for the 10BA screws, shorter end caps and smaller vents. The biggest change is that I now have Profiles A, B and C: These are on the shapeways store but in a BETA mode. There's no real difference but it it just marks there may be issues as they're yet to be proved. For this reason the v1.0 people have already had are still in the store. Once the new versions are proved I'll discontinue the v1.0 part. It's also worth mentioning the new parts are a tiny bit cheaper than the old ones in the same material.

I've had these available for a while in my build thread and many of you have ordered some but I figured I'd start a new thread so they aren't buried. Introducing Suitcase Props 3D Printed E-11 parts As part of my ANH E-11 build I designed and had printed a number of parts to compliment my DoopyDoo resin kit and T-Jay completion kit. These came out of me not liking the quality of some of the resin parts and feeling that a better option was available. Parts Front sight with pin, use a M4 x5mm cone point grub screw to secure the pin. Flash guards x 2 Stock cube, sized to fit the tube in the T-Jay kit. End cap clip, sized to fit the channel in the T-Jay kit. Power cylinders (shown assembled ready for paint) Ordering I make these parts available via a shapeways store. They handle all the ordering, manufacture and shipping. For my time I take a cut of exactly £0.00, the price you see is the same as what I'd pay cost. The reason for this is to give back to those who have gone before and done all the hard work to research and produce the kits we are building upon. I'm adding a small, margin to each part today ( <$0.50 ). Nothing massive but a few $ in my Paypal once in a while wouldn't go amis at the moment. If you really don't want to pay see Open Source below. The parts can be ordered here https://www.shapeways.com/shops/suitcaseprops Open Source I also have made the design files and stl files available under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license. So feel free to have a look at them and mess with them if you want something different. The files can be found on github https://github.com/themaninthesuitcase/e-11-3d The design files are for Autodesk 123D Design which is a free program and is available on Windows and Mac. These were originally designed in Autodesk 123D Design, which has now been sunset. These should be openable in Fusion 360, also available for free for hobbyists, students and small businesses (read their terms)

I've not updated the live files yet as I wanted the feed back. I also need to increase the hole sizes and then make it all 1 part again.

I just adjusted the model a bit, fortunately I was able to cut and shut the capacitors and the "bend" has been added too using an extra piece and fillet. Much more than this might have meant a re-design but seeing as it's so close these small changes were reasonably simple to do. It's taught me a bit about leaving bits so that I can edit them again in future. Anyway some images: The curve of the bend has been added to replace bent metal. The inside curve is 0.25mm radius and the out side is 1mm, the "metal" is 1mm thick. I think this looks pretty close to realistic. The resistors have been shortened by 2mm. It's hard to see how much you removed but this looks about right. I could also make the holes a bit larger in both the main cylinder and capacitors which might help reduce the amount of finishing too. I'll need to measure things first before I add these. Then all that's left is a willing guinea pig to order the v1.1 part. Any thoughts on the changes would be appreciated.

On my 3D printer flash guards mine are as smooth as the resin just from sanding and paint so it's perfectly doable you just need to put more effort in than the resin ones.

There's a Stanley one but it's £88 ($128+- exchange changes).

The mattress topper is a good idea. I'm going to have to get a better bin, mines fine for short trips but I've got a long walk this weekend so have had to bodge up a trolly for it.

I struggled with the resistors too. I can shorten them down for a mk2 version. Roughly how much needs to come off? Looks about 1mm based on that's how thick the plates are? But if that's all that's wrong I'll call that a win. Also for finishing: on some parts I primed them with Tamiya then used a heavy coat of auto primer and they are almost as good as the doopy Doo resin they are glued too. I think for the cylinders the best bet is to sand, seal, prime and then maybe sand again if you want a really good finish. Edit: I just noticed the rounding off of the right angle, I can do that too.

Size can be worked around for some stuff by scaling or by cutting up bits further. Autocad have a whole raft of free tools. 123D Design is good for geometric stuff as is Fusion 360 which is a bit more full featured (and free for enthusiasts). Meshmixer is also useful for tweaking, cutting up and fixing models. I also have blender which is very high end capability wise but I've not started down that way as the auto desk stuff is better for what I've been doing. Steep learning curve though.

I'm waiting on one too. Reys blaster is high on my list for my daughter. They're a good one on my mini factory. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/star-wars-nl-44-reys-blaster-17422 The AT-AT is amazing too but need to see that will fit my printer. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/detailed-at-at-17606

Thanks guys!

Name = Chris Pearson 501st ID = 10911 FISD forum name = themaninthesuitcase Garrison = UK Garrison 501st Profile = http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21319 EIB Thread = http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37103-tk-10911-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-anovos-578/ Armor = Anovos Helmet = Anovos Blaster = Doopy Doo full resin Height = 176cm Weight = 82kg Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = RWA Gloves & Hand Plates = Imperial Supply Depot Electronics = TKVoice, Aker & Wireless Trooping Systems Neck Seal = Anovos Holster = Anovos Armor Photos Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Right Side Detail Left Side Detail Armor Details Side Rivets Kidney Notch Gloves Shoulder Bridge Front Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Elastic Thigh Pack Attachment Sniper Knee Attachment Drop Box Back Crotch/Butt Detail Wrist return Helmet Detail Photos Front Side Back Hovi tip detail [/url] S Trim Lens color (Backlit if necessary) Neckseal Blaster left side Blaster right side Blaster D Ring Thermal detonator back Interior Strapping Abdomen Detail Action Shot

Ill bare this in mind in my next build.

I really can't see anything wrong. Tube stripes were hand painted on ANH helmets so there was no "side" to get wrong. The left one on mine also isn't as tight at the back due to the template not wanting to curve on that tube. Not one person even noticed.

Thanks for the app plug! Also got a mention for EIB. I should have done my centurion images and could have been in there 3 times doh!

This evening it was time for my first post troop repair. Previously I'd tried to fix a crack on the rim of the bucket with some ABS paste. This has simply cracked again To fix it I was going to use some acetone to "glue" on some scrap ABS but the position made this pretty impossible, even with some thin scrap. I decided to try a fix suggested at the troop which is to super glue some fabric on. I think the ideal would have been some t-shirt but I don't have anything suitable to cut up at the moment. What the wife found was some thin white cotton from a nativity costume. To apply it I dropped a few drops of super glue on the crack and then pressed on the fabric. I then tried to saturate the fabric with more super glue. As the fabric was pretty thin I did a second layer to try get more strength through layering. The fabric over lapped into the hole so this was trimmed with scissors. The patches were cut to be larger than the crack to stop the crack running any further and thicken up this thin area. I did also consider soaking the fabric in acetone rather than superglue but I was worried the thinness of the material here would warp or melt through. I'm still toying with the idea of sanding/filing back the out side and applying paste to melt and fill the crack too now it's reinforced from the rear.

First things first: Once again thank you to everyone who made this possible. After the troop I had a few sore spots, and after a chat with one Mr Haggis I've started some extra trimming. For the biceps and fore arms I've reduced down the returns a lot. I've left a bit as I prefer the look with a bit of return. This wasn't a huge problem area but I'm hoping this will give me a bit more are movement. That said it's loosening up a bit with use, I could do the shoulder poppers my self for example which I couldn't do when I first suited up. The biggest issue was a rub on the top of my left knee from the front of the thigh. I've started fixing this in a few ways. Removed the foam from the back of the thigh. This isn't really needed the foam in the shin stops the sniper plate hooking. Reduced the return at the bottom of the thighs. This was about 7-8mm it's now more like 3-4mm. Still enough to give the illusion of thickness but less to dig into my knee. Trimmed the top of the rear of the thigh. The last one is the big one and should mean the thigh twists less and can go up a bit higher. This was what I spoke to Bill about who said not worry about the squared off back, the originals didn't have them. Working off images like below, and the shape of my big fat bottom I've started to trim away at the top. I think I can go a bit further still. It's easy to take off but a pain to put it back. The shape is a bit odd and is based on removing the minimum needed to get a good fit. It's already considerably better. Twist is reduced and it's being pushed down less. I suspect I'll remove a bit more but time ran out this evening so I might wait to troop it again before I cut again. Once the final position is nailed down I'll round off any remaining points like one the left thigh.

I'm actually rather surprised at the kit. Despite having sworn off them, if I had the money I'd probably have been first in line on this one.

If you run the numbers it's actually surprisingly close to a fan made kit once you account for this comes with a premium line bucket, boots, gloves and gaskets.

Gloves from ISD came today. I went with the silicone option rather than latex as theres a chance one of my daughters has a latex allergy and also it's becoming more common so I wouldn't want to give someone at a troop a reaction. The gloves are a nice thin material compared to my Black HD Marigold brand ones so I might actually be able to feel what I'm holding, like say an E-11. The silicone has a few small holes from air bubbles during casting but nothing too alarming. These where the last parts I was waiting on for my Centurion application. However I've still got to address the shoulder bell gap. The elastic is the correct length, or at least pretty close to it. The issue is my shoulder doesn't fit into the bell properly so they all need to be heat formed to flare them out a touch. As I am trooping tomorrow I won't be doing that until either Sunday or Monday. I'll need to take some elastic off too allow for this so I'll have to check how much I've got left. Once all that's done I should be okay to go for Centurion which will be a nice achievement if I can get it.

Thanks thats perfect. I wasn't sure where I'd need to apply the pressure. I'm guessing you dunked the whole bell?

Would you mind detailing what you did to them when heated? I have the same issue, the elastic is the right length but my shoulders push them out more than I'd like.

I binned my DD flash guards and used some 3D printed ones. For the front stock I added a screw to fit into the slot which is molded in but needs filing out.

Got news from Imperial Supply Depot that my new gloves are ready so those are now paid for. Probably won't be here in time for my first troop on Saturday but oh well. Should be good to go for centurion next week though which is nice. I also got a helmet bag today which I should have done a long time ago.