themaninthesuitcase

It's more you have to be slow and steady when drilling/grinding out the rivet. They can get very hot and then melt the plastic out. But even then probably around 5-10 mins each with a cold wet rag applied regularly to keep it cool. That said if they are actually fine, it's time and risk that's not needed.

The right brush is part of it. You want longer bristles that will hold a decent amount of paint. Paint needs to flow correctly, not too thick not too thin. You may need to thin the paint or do 2 coats if it's a bit too thin. Being steady is key, you want to brace your hands against the work and ideally your elbows onto something solid too. All that should be moving is your fingers and maybe a little wrist movement. But ultimately it's practice. I did a few tests on a bit of scrap and even then made plenty of mistakes. Have some thinners to hand and a cotton bud to wipe up mistakes before the paint can dry. I also used a pen (fine line sharpie) to mark out all my lines first with a flexible rule and then painted over the top. Made it far easier to get the spacing I wanted.

Paddy Did you ask RS what glue they used for the sniper plate?

This is the internation FB group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/248862279225/?ref=bookmarks This is the freshly minted forum: http://mousedroidbuilders.club/ The plans I'm using are available on both those. For the top greeblies and side stuff I'll probably use the 3D files TinyP has done. He also did some wheels but they are for hubs from the chassis he's using. I'd like to have got a vac shell but I'd have to import as the new UK source isn't quite 1:1 scale (22" long is 1:1 the RWA one is 20" long). The company most use is this one: http://www.graniteearth.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=One-BOX

I have that crack I fixed it using this method, seems to have held well so far where a strip popped right off. Armour - Repair Just don't use scissors on any excess or it might crack again and you'll have to fix it again. Sand the excess away.

Humbrol paint is supposed to be thin, the idea is 2 thin coats are better than 1 thick one for model painting. I needed 3 coats for my tube stripes and 2 for the grey areas.

I was recommended black rubber super glue, you can get it on eBay reasonably cheaply. I think my ISD ones are just superglued on at the moment and they seem to be holding okay.

Probably, I've kind of lost track of all of them now and whats stull available and what's not. edit; maybe it's time some one (ie me) did a full round up post of what's currently an option. Clearly I won't have used or even seen all of them but just a list of options and a basic summary pro/con of each would be helpful.

I've printed pages 1 and 2 of the plans. The taping process is INCREDIBLY tedious so I've only done one so far. Sheet 1 of the plans by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr I went with blue tape as it allows me to fix errors easily even though it's not the strongest option. I've not done page 2 or any cutting yet as I need to find time to do it with my daughter. I've also ordered some of the misc tat I'll need for the build. I'm have 500ml of Dichloromethane, so I'm probably on some terrorist watch list for ordring pure chemicals. Dichloromethane! by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr I've got some small LDPE bottles with needles to apply the glue accurately. LDPE bottles by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr This lot came to about £14 all in, much cheaper than standard styrene hobby glue. I've also got some bearings for the axels. I got 10 MR105ZZ which is a 5x10x4mm bearing. Small but they should be up to the task. Worst case they aren't and I'll make a new bracket for some bigger ones. MR105ZZ bearings by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Next step will be to get the bottom shell cut and built so I can get the measurments I'll need to be able to order the axel and start to work on the mounts. I also still haven't ordered any electronics or the gears yet I have a good idea what I'll be using so I'll post here for any tips if I'm wrong about somthing: Radio: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201542489916?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Motor and ESC : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131673841737?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=431061949086&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Battery and charger: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331237158471?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT All pretty basic stuff and comes to about £85 shipped in from china or around £100 if I get UK based. I'm aiming to gear it at about 8:1 with either a 10 or 11 pinion and an 87 tooth gear. Should mean it's slow but torquey.

I wrote a pretty detailed post here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41510-microphone-for-helmet/?p=556283

I had this issue a few times. When you go to snap it just bends and sort of rips rather than snapped. Then you have to get the scissors on it and then sand the mess. I don't recall what parts though sadly.

Theres a heap of options depending on budget, features and how handy you are with a soldering iron. Basic, cheap but works Aker 1505 from eBay and you're done. Cons: no fancy effects or clicks. Comes with a mic, charger and a speaker. If you're the UK you also get a plug adapter that will make you look at it in horror. But I want fancy sounds! Take the aker then: I have an iPhone! Look at trooper talk. MAKE SURE YOU READ THE BIT ABOUT WHAT ADAPTERS WORK FOR THE LOVE OF THE EMPEROR. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34939-troopertalk-voice-changer-w-static-burst-app-dev/ tl;dr; is mic goes into an adapter into the phone, phone does magic, sound comes out the adapter and the speaker lets you hear it I don't have one of those heathen devices! Look at iComm http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14832-fs-imperial-communication-system-icomm/ tl;dr similar to TT but a box of magic not a phone of magic These two options add effects to an existing mic and speaker setup. Also an option here is RomFx. The biggest con of this class is more wires and connections = more things to go wrong, crackle and pop. There's also an amount of faff involved getting them up and running. But I just want one box/I just want it to work/I can afford to pay for this Get a Tramp. https://www.facebook.com/trooperamp/ tl;dr give Paul some credits and he gives you an all in one box of wonder. (ps Paul still waiting for that cheque). I have a soldering iron burning a hole in my pocket First turn that off, or take it out of your pocket. Second: TK Talkie - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41323-tktalkie-v3-released/

I love my Anovos kit. I like the look, the build was easy thanks to the cut lines and personanly haven't seen any durabilty issues yet. However when I inevitably need a new kit I'll be speaking to RS, TM or CFO even if Anovos works out cheaper (for me it probably won't due to shipping and tax).

The Sondico stuff is actually pretty decent. Whilst it's not tactical level rugged like some of the under armour stuff, it's designed for sports use so is reasonably hard wearing.

Another one here with the sondico stuff. Use a rag with the acetone to get the labels off.

Yeah getting the big boxes out past 2 stair gates and through small store hall ways is always fun. I'm sure I'm 1 or 2 knocks from breaking off a lock loop.

The running Stormtrooper just went into the Guiness book of records for the fastest marathon dressed as a Male Star wars Character! https://twitter.com/StormtrooperRun/status/856194900446126081 A fantastic acheievment. He's not one of us be a few UK Garrison members have helped him out with armour parts and repairs. He's running to raise money for MAW and has yet to reach his £10,000 goal if some troopers wanted to help him get there. https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/rogueone

Congratulations!

I don't take mine appart I used to use the Homebase/Aldi/Where ever is cheap this week box but upgraded to the 50 Gallon Stanley as I got luckey on eBay.

It's a 3 but only just: ------------- by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

--------- Assuming thats a screen used prop, thats a copy of a doopydoo scope. The serial matches my DD: ---------- ---------- Christopher Pearson, on Flickr I would guess the prop makers used what was available to them easily hense the DD scope, SDS parts etc.

Oh yeah, you'll need that for the member link oops. As for the LEGO troop, it wouldn't be suitable for an induction really.There's an event early in May that might be able to be one but the EA isn't sure they can make it.

Don't need soft guards for EIB, get that application in!

Welcome to the FISD. I see a few dressing issues as mentioned, and you probably need to re-assemble the legs. The EFX helmet isn't clearbale either. Doesn't look terrible but a few areas to address. As suggested sign up over at the UKG and we'll get you sorted out with parts and assistance. There's a fair few people in the Surrey area, and we have a troop in Chobham on May 1st if you want to come have a look and say hello in person. Currently 4TKs and a Vader.

He does them, just ask him for a price.