themaninthesuitcase

If you look there's a photo of mine in the reviews

I have this one, it's been fantastic. Fleece lined, shoulder strap and a pocket on the out side for stuff (mine has the fan battery and my troop diary in it) http://amzn.to/2xpkkDz

Mine doesn’t move, but as said glue the bolts to either the body or the stock but not both and it will still move.

I made the hole large enough to be snug on the square and thread. For a long time they were held in with friction! Though after a few times apart this was no longer good enough so I added a drop of CA glue.

DA is also known as BFA so that may help. For what it’s worth whilst DA isn’t the most popular it on the market (it’s quite popular with a lot of non 501st groups) it’s certainly more than good enough for all the way to Centurion. As for a build guide it’s the same as all modern kits, no special gotchas I’m aware of but I’ve not built one personally.

You can with some creative leg positioning and some stretching.

Aluminium doesn’t like to bend tight angles. I cheated by cutting a groove in the “elbow” of the bend with a hack saw. The wider the grove the sharper the angle you can do. If I recall a grove half way through about 1.5-2mm wide will be enough for a 90° bend, but have a look on my WIP as I am sure I documented it there.

I need to do that still. My shins twist a lot.

Fit is looking really good. Only thing I'd say is you may need to look into foam padding to stop the sniper catching on the thigh. A block in the front of the shin, thigh behind the knee, or both should stop that. I did both on both sides for balance. Only another evening or so and you should be done!

If you need time to adjust and line up for final fitting then 5 minute epoxy also works great. Think I used loktites one but any branded one will be fine.

I was told satin (#85) for the vocoder and line details on the helmet. This is what I have on my paint guide diagram. Though I am sure troopermaster will know for sure what the originals used for the black parts.

Rob pretty much covered it but the tl;dr is as lights and sounds weren't seen on screen they will not be allowed on a troop. They can be fitted but must be switched off when on a UKG troop. Clear/see through scopes are fine though. I'm trying to get the policy in the public sections as I wasn't aware it was the policy until last night so I am sure theres a lot who don't know.

Hi dan not sure what your plans are for this but this thread is worth reading over at the UKG if you've not seen it regarding the policy on lights and sounds. Must admit I wasn't aware of it until today, so I'm trying to bring it to new troopers attention. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=30911&share_tid=66997&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eukgarrison%2Eco%2Euk%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D66997&share_type=t

That's sort of what I was implying, without recommending one over the other. I've never handled an RS suit though so I can comment on the quality of the plastic or it's durability. I do know there's no way in hell you're getting parts for Anovos, despite numerous claims over the last 2 years that it's "coming soon", just like that EU warehouse. Essentially if you like Anovos for the asthetic reasons, then an RS will look very very similar. Though if it's for "licenced" reasons then in the UK it's not a copyright issue either, so whilst not licenced it's also not a copyright breach here.

Speaking only to complete builds the RS knocks the Anovos into a cocked hat. Price is probably great for non UK people too *grumbles about exchange rates* Worth remembering too that the Anovos kit appears to share the same heritage as the RS kit.

Well done Ross. I am pretty sure you're the first Amour maker to make Centurion in their own armour!

If you go to the photobucket site and login there will be download links available. I forget where but I have used them.

There's also an aspect of an "expert eye". First time you don't look and so you don't see anything wrong. Now once someone has a certain amount of knowledge they look again, and look harder, and see all the wrong stuff like swapped shins, missing stripes, broken armour, missing biceps, weird holsters and so on.

Looking good Ross, sure to be a pass!

That's exccess resin, mine came pre-sanded. Ideally youd offer it to something like a bent sander to remove that exccess but care with a dremel will do the same job. I don't have a great photo handy but you want to get rid of just the excess. When they molded it it looks like they just stuck that surface to a board to pour the mold so you can see the line where the mold stops, and the part starts.

I use single snaps and have never had one let go on me. Have a word with Ross but I am pretty sure he only uses singles too and is very active in his armour.

ABS paste isn't a structural repair, just cosmetic. You'll need to add something to hold the crack and stop it opening, moving etc. Have a look at this, very popular method in my Garrison and in general. Armour - Repair by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Once you stop the crack, if you wish you can fill the front with ABS paste for a cosmetic fix.

Respirator is a must. I forgot one evening and it hurt for 2 days!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-41199638 Another of our screen heroes draws their career to a close. I was lucky enough to meet him in May and it was clear then he wasn't going to be doing it long. Enjoy your retirement Lord Vader.

I couldn't do some stuff my self initially but after a few suit ups I am able to do it all on my own now. Not sure if it's a practice thing or just stuff losening up over time. With how you have your arms, leave them whole put them on as a sleeve. I have my top strap glued to the shoulder bell so I have no choice but you don't so experiment which is easier for you.