themaninthesuitcase

That's sort of what I was implying, without recommending one over the other. I've never handled an RS suit though so I can comment on the quality of the plastic or it's durability. I do know there's no way in hell you're getting parts for Anovos, despite numerous claims over the last 2 years that it's "coming soon", just like that EU warehouse. Essentially if you like Anovos for the asthetic reasons, then an RS will look very very similar. Though if it's for "licenced" reasons then in the UK it's not a copyright issue either, so whilst not licenced it's also not a copyright breach here.

Speaking only to complete builds the RS knocks the Anovos into a cocked hat. Price is probably great for non UK people too *grumbles about exchange rates* Worth remembering too that the Anovos kit appears to share the same heritage as the RS kit.

Well done Ross. I am pretty sure you're the first Amour maker to make Centurion in their own armour!

If you go to the photobucket site and login there will be download links available. I forget where but I have used them.

There's also an aspect of an "expert eye". First time you don't look and so you don't see anything wrong. Now once someone has a certain amount of knowledge they look again, and look harder, and see all the wrong stuff like swapped shins, missing stripes, broken armour, missing biceps, weird holsters and so on.

Looking good Ross, sure to be a pass!

That's exccess resin, mine came pre-sanded. Ideally youd offer it to something like a bent sander to remove that exccess but care with a dremel will do the same job. I don't have a great photo handy but you want to get rid of just the excess. When they molded it it looks like they just stuck that surface to a board to pour the mold so you can see the line where the mold stops, and the part starts.

I use single snaps and have never had one let go on me. Have a word with Ross but I am pretty sure he only uses singles too and is very active in his armour.

ABS paste isn't a structural repair, just cosmetic. You'll need to add something to hold the crack and stop it opening, moving etc. Have a look at this, very popular method in my Garrison and in general. Armour - Repair by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Once you stop the crack, if you wish you can fill the front with ABS paste for a cosmetic fix.

Respirator is a must. I forgot one evening and it hurt for 2 days!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-41199638 Another of our screen heroes draws their career to a close. I was lucky enough to meet him in May and it was clear then he wasn't going to be doing it long. Enjoy your retirement Lord Vader.

I couldn't do some stuff my self initially but after a few suit ups I am able to do it all on my own now. Not sure if it's a practice thing or just stuff losening up over time. With how you have your arms, leave them whole put them on as a sleeve. I have my top strap glued to the shoulder bell so I have no choice but you don't so experiment which is easier for you.

Looks awesome. Interesting fact: you're the only person to order the front site in the metalic finish! Still find it weird that people use these, I should have added a markup

I use a pair of combination padlocks so I don't have to worry about a key, but as said I generally don't feel the need. In fact I've left it open on purpose a few times so people at a large con had access to my field repair kit (which really helped a RL member). As for the "kit" I think it was ISD (now closed but the owner is running a less single focus business so may still do them) or RWA. It's not overly complex, so I am sure any one with a vac machine could knock one up very quickly.

Looks like your progressing nicely. My armour is 1-1.5mm ish and I couldn't feel my hands at the end so I'd hate to imagine 2mm!

Troopermaster is another maker, he also does a ROTJ but is also generally very knowledgeable about how original armour went together.

Jedi is overlap, not butt. Best advice here will be from troopermaster and CFO who do visit these boards.

I remember some one, possible Deatrin, ran a process that bulk updated them all just before the last election. It's not important outside of election time if memory serves, just means you'll be allowed to vote for FISD CO changes.

There's a set for both in the blasters section.

Those split rivets look too far in to my eye. I can't remember off the top of my head the correct measurement but the proportioning vs the vertical distances look off to me.

What flood is that? Only other boots I see are Imperial Boot, which are decent and leather, or converted black Chelsea boots? May be different in the US I suppose.

I think technically most resins are plastic, and not all resins are all that fragile. Some more normal plastics will be just as brittle as a resin if they pick the wrong one, would be insterested to know what he's using on these parts. I have been wanting to build one for display but there's always something else in line first.

My understanding,which may well be wrong, is the fraying is because it was not a finished edge. Essentially they cut strips of canvas, and I think denim (others will know better) and sewed them together. As the belts are used the unfinished edge would just fray. Mines unfinished and it's rather frayed, i.e. It's pretty accurate.

I wear gloves that are a little too large (XL I think) and then wear a cotton massage glove to soak up the gross. I was ph the liners with my under suit and after 4-5 washes they fall apart and I bin them. Cost me £2-3 for 10 pairs. Disclaimer: I do not have to troop anything hotter that a British summer or a full Excel exhibition centre. Floridians for example may think differently.

Did you get an answer on the ab? I'd start by trimming the excess on the ab plate and the positioning should be far more obvious.