themaninthesuitcase

Always cool to see my 3D parts being used on a quality build. Looks like you're really going for it!

The blue cover on the plastic RWA does look odd doesn't it! Though I guess it's harder to forget to take it off now.

This is coming out really well, you've done a great job! I am also doing this build, I still have to print the dome sections but I am out of black filament at the moment. The face was a tricky part but I got there in the end. I used the unsupported file and then used the support generated in Slic3r PE. My biggest issue was the rear bottom edge didn't print cleanly so I am hiving to re-build it with filler, I need to get some bondo for it. If you've not done it already I recommend using the 3.1.0 firmware with Linear Advance, even on slower prints the better corners are worth it.

Congratulations Matt!

It wasn't me who got them, I just saved them from photobucket.

Awesome, maybe I need to move up my experiments with PETG then. Sounds like a much better option vs PLA. Your forearms look excellent by the way, I see too much 3D printed stuff with obvious layer lines and these just don't have any.

More I meant I wasn't sure if they'd be able to be added to the group needed, but seeing as they have been I guess I was wrong!

PET is what they make plastic bottles from, the G is Glycol which stops the plastic crystallizing when heated. It's generally seen as the best of ABS and PLA in that its strong and closer to ABS heat resistance wise but easier to print more in line with PLA. The main down side is cost, it's about 30-50% more per Kg. Also it's supposedly hard to sand and doesn't take paint well but I would need to experiment for my self to know for sure. No but my daughters Jawa Ion blaster is all PLA and it's been dropped more than a few times and its fine.

ABS and PLA both have similarities and differences that may or not matter to you. Roughly: ABS is more heat resistant and easier to sand but considerably harder to print. PLA is easy to print but will be less heat resistant and harder to sand. Both when printed well will give the same high quality finish. They also both cost about the same per Kg. What do I mean by heat resistant? Well PLA becomes soft (technical term is the glass transition temperature) at around 60°C degrees. So leave your PLA prop in a hot car, or even out in the sun, and it will warp. ABS is somewhere around 100°C. If you can print ABS easily and well, then for a prop it’s probably what you want to use. For everyone else, including me, PLA is the weapon of choice. The additional effort sanding isn’t that enormous but the difference in how easy it is to print often is. In theory PETG would be the best of both but I gather it doesn’t take paint well. I need to experiment at some point.

You’re far more organised than I am. I still haven’t printed anything! I have my certs and a couple of images I really like I need to get printed and framed (IKEA RIBBA FTW)

As it’s election season there’s a chance it may take a while to get the update done. Some stuff gets locked down for the elections and I can’t remember if this is one of them. I may be completely wrong but just a heads up just in case.

They are faux leather, for that price I'd want real leather which will age far better. Personally I'd wait for IB, or go for some painted black boots which would actually be more accurate.

The build isn't as hard as it looks once you get going. Even if you do make a mistake most of it can be fixed with an epoxy putty like green stuff. Good luck trooper.

Sheperton is, quite frankly, pony. You can do better.

I'd say the 2 most accurate kits on the market are RS and TM. RS is cast from (most of) a screen used suit, TM is an excellent sculpt. They both command a premium over most other kits. Which you choose would be personal preference, but I suspect that's the best start point for your request. Personally I'd always go for ABS, uncapped, as that's what the originals used. I find capped ABS too white.

As far as I am aware the DOs don't discriminate against you for your height so long as certain criteria are still met. You're best bet would be to speak to Tony and Andrew, they do the approvals and will be able to guide you best.

I believe it would be based on the shipment total, the duty would be less than the cost of 2 shipping costs though.

Not quite. Anything over £15 get charged 20% VAT Anything over £135 gets charged 2.5% duty and then another 20% on the resulting total VAT. Both calculated agains the cost of goods and shipping.

Not all packages will be stopped at customs and have VAT and Duty levied. Though these days this is getting rare from the US as everything is done digitally and so it’s done automatically. Last time I got a package from the USA Royal Mail held the package until I went and paid the VAT and duty. The time before that was a bigger package and FedEx just invoiced me 2 weeks after the delivery. Stuff from other countries, say China, often isn’t picked up for charging.

Approximately its this: All goods that arrive from a NON EU country are liable for VAT if they are worth more than £15, and duty if they are over £135. The value of the goods is the value of the goods inclusive of shipping and duty. The value is also converted into £ sterling using what ever the rate that they are using, I don't know how they calculate this, before the VAT and Duty are calculated. Some stuff will be missed, assume it won't be from the US. Also best not to falsify the customs declaration. VAT is currently a flat 20%*. Duty is a scale, but I believe once you cross a threshold the rate applies the whole whole value. There will often then be a handling fee by the delivery company, usually £10 but I've seen as much as £20. Worked example using made up numbers: Goods = $200 Shipping to the UK = $30 Total = $230 At customs this will be converted to £ Value = £169.88 ($230 based on todays rate on xe.com) Duty = £4.25 (2.5% of the total in £, if the value was under £135 it would be 0%) VAT = £34.83 (value + duty @ 20%) Handling Fee = £10 Total = £218.96 The government page on this is: https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad Hope this is helpful, I'm not super experienced in this but I've ordered enough stuff to have a reasonable grasp of the law here. * There are other rates but they won't apply here.

Depends on what you want printed but either 3D hubs or shapeways are good options. The latter is more money but also has a ton of material options that aren’t available elsewhere. 3DHubs is basically FDM or SLA printing for the most part, but is usually cheaper. Knowing what you need printed for what will help.

Looking good so far, quite jealous of what sounds like a Foredom. Would love one but they aren't cheap or available here. As Joseph has said add all the bits. Well most of them at least, I didn't add all of them but it doesn't take much time to add them.

If we need to up our budget I'll throw in a few $.

You're going to struggle to find 38.1 (1.5") PVC in the UK, there might be some on eBay or you can go for aluminium, again on ebay. The actual sterlings were 1.5", 40mm is just the closest metric option. I'd assume the DD parts are for 1.5" as they are just a subset of their full kit. That said it wouldn't be overly hard to adjust, just hold some 100 grit paper on the pipe and rub the part until it fits the new radius. I started a pipe build with some 40mm PVC from B&Q but once cut some holes I found the tube collapsed due to the internal tension of the material. If you want to go that way try get a thicker wall, the stuff I had was about 1.5mm thick walls and I think was just drainage pipe, you want something more like 3-4mm.

Guessing you don’t have anything holding the thighs yet? They seem to be moving about a lot? Shoulders don’t need any Velcro, just glue at the front and some 5mm flat white elastic loops at the rear. Should hold them in place just fine. Shoulder bells are probably as good as your going to get them.