themaninthesuitcase

Guessing you don’t have anything holding the thighs yet? They seem to be moving about a lot? Shoulders don’t need any Velcro, just glue at the front and some 5mm flat white elastic loops at the rear. Should hold them in place just fine. Shoulder bells are probably as good as your going to get them.

The secure torx arrived today. I got 10 M3x16 and 10 M4x25, the idea is I’ll be able to use the M3 as is and I’ll need to shorten down some of the M4 with a saw. I did it this way as they come with the torx bit so ordering multiple lengths adds to the cost significantly. I’ll confirm once I’ve had time to check this and what lengths I ended up with.

Whilst I've seen pep helmets it's highly unlikely that you'd be able to build a FOTK with pep to a standard even close to 501st standard.

I saw a post on a social media from KB saying he was a bit swamped with messages so might be he missed yours? MIMIC looks nice but I don’t think he’s shipped anything yet. I’ve been trying to keep an eye on this one my self. Though it’s also fibreglass so guess that’s out. I was advised that anovos is currently one of the better choices but they have changed it a lot for the new, upcoming, release so no one really knows what they’re getting yet.

Having read the whole thread now I can offer some possible assistance to future attempts at this. Arduinos have a resistor that you can optionally enable on each pin using INPUT_PULLUP mode. This has the side effect of reversing the reading the pins but means you don’t need an external pull up/down resistor which can save a lot of space in small space builds like this. The only note is you don’t want much draw in the line or it will blow the resister in the CPU module. The feature is documented here : https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/DigitalPins

I am sure I have that audio module and amp board in my stash as I never got them to work. Might have to use these posts and revisit them.

Sheartech or Imperial Warfighters? I've been thinking of getting a rubber one, so would be interested in your thoughts.

I ended up slightly larger than the suggested as I needed more room for my hand to fit through. So make sure you check that too.

Congratulations Dan! All that hard work has paid off!

Looking good but you might want to trim down the cover strips on those thighs, that bit that sticks up will dig in good and proper. If you have a look at the reference images you'll see that other than the odd one that the cover strips are approximately flush.

All I'll say is you don't need to spend as much as that on a good quality, vetted seller kit. You can, and there's some excellent reasons to do so, but you don't have to.

Finished off the initial filling and sanding this evening. There's a couple of small bits that aren't perfect but these should be more or less hidden once assembled so I'm not going to spend hours fixing them for little gain. Initial filling Complete Next step is a coat of filler primer but given it's not got above 3ºC for a couple of weeks I'm not sure when I'll be able to do that. Once it's in filler primer I'll rub it back with 180 and with any luck that should leave me ready for final prime and paint.

Have a look at what people are building in the build threads, and then approach the makers for costs. I am sure they are used to people enquiring so don't worry about it. The recommended sellers list is a pretty decent starting point. Most people aren't going to give you a "get x" as there's a number of variables that will do into that decision, and cost is only one of them.

Im not sure what's causing it but this evening FISD has been murdering my CPU (and so battery). As soon as I close all FISD tabs the usage drops off completely. Open one up, any page even the main index, and it's back to 98%+ CPU, I saw 104% once. Doesn't happen in chrome I just tested it, and it wasn't happening last night as I sat reading build threads all evening. I did try clearing my caches but that didn't seem to do much, I could go nuclear and clear all browser history and cookies etc but I'd rather not have to re-login to everything. Any ideas what might be causing it and I can dig in further if needed. I am a software dev so I can poke around a bit in the developer modes if you need me to.

A little more progress to report: I glued the halves together using Gorilla Superglue Tough formula. This is nice and thick and has proven great for PLA parts. I did this on a flat surface with a sheet of greaseproof to try get as perfect a result as possible. There was a tiny step but nothing at all to worry about. I filled the seams and also fixed some other problem areas which will be sanded once the putty has had time to go off properly. I also added some filler to a few of the other parts that need more than a light sanding. Start of filling Issues I also drilled the top part of the sight for the pins and the front bit that drops down. To do this I used a small 1.8mm drill bit in the wheel pin holes to locate the top to the riser. With the parts eyeballed as straight as I could I ran a 3mm drill bit down the riser pin well and turned it enough to mark the top. I then used digital callipers to measure the width and then halved this and used the callipers to score a centre line on the part. This showed my eyeballing was pretty good and I was actually less than 0.5mm from ideal. To drill the hole I used 2 sizes of drill bits in a pin vice, starting with a 1.3mm fish one to create a pilot. That done I used the riser, pined in place again, to act as a drill guide to create the 3mm hole. I didn't do the other end as I don't think there's enough meat on the part to create a worth while pin seat. I'll just glue this end. Hopefully this shows what I mean a bit better than my words explain it. How I lined it all up to drill accurately The front hole for the part "Visor 4" was done similarly but instead I used the same centre line and used the callipers to place the hole centre to match the reference. This appears to be the tip is approximately flush or a tiny bit proud. Again 3 stages of drilling with the pin vice to create the actual hole to ensure it stayed on centre. This evening I ran over the white cases with some 180, 100 or 120 would probably be faster but 180 is what I have. This removed the worst of the print lines and once I've finished the fill and sand cycle on a few bits the rest will be fixable with filler primer. The seams are looking really good now, but there's a few holes still where the support was on the bottom edge. Hoping to get the sanding work all done soon in prep for filler primer. Just not sure when I'll be able to spray as it's not really rattle can weather right now!

Fit on the rest is looking much better now too with the back gap closed up. How long is the white strap between the snaps? if you keep that a bit shorter it will give it less room to pull out for the shoulder bells. If you're really stuck some hot water baths might allow you to flare them out a little to make more room. Don't use a heat gun, it's too harsh and will destroy the armour if you're not very very careful.

When you lose weight you can just make new straps. I’ve had to recently as I’ve lost a lot of weight this year. The beauty of the snaps system is that you can either replace or shorten strapping easily. Edit: I like my straps tight but not under load. This gives me maximum flex and should mean they don’t pop off under use.

I had tapatalk 4 post on me yesterday. I suspect it’s a server side issue as I had the site 500 on me earlier. General users can’t delete posts but you should be able to edit them. On tapatalk I think it’s a long press on the post to get the menu with the edit option.

Slight aside but are you aware that Ross was one of the 6 UKG troopers who were a first order TK in The Force Awakens? http://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/news/item/79-the-force-awakens-the-ukg-6-from-episode-vii.html

I remember that thread, there were some strong options there. There’s a fine line to thread. You’re essentially creating a CRL for the blasters, and so similar care and attention must be taken. I suggest that before people get carried away with logos and program names that at least a starting point of structure and so on is established. No point in having a fancy logo if there’s no proper documentation and no one willing to adjudicate for example. Edit: For what it’s worth go for it but make it achievable. Don’t mandate above what’s reasonable and ensure what is mandated is what was seen on screen. A fieldmarshall build, whilst fantastic, is also above and beyond. As are movable parts, you never see a stock in use for example. Also you’re committing to a rule set for EACH blaster. ANH, ESB and ROTJ are all different.

For reasons I'm not 100 sure of, maybe some futile hope this will end up in a TFA kit, I've started a SE-44C build based on the files Germain so kindly provides. Printing the outer shell I'm printing it on my standard Prusa Mk2, no mods or updates outside firmware. I'm using the new linear advance feature that allows me to print faster with better quality than before. Filament is Filamentive rPLA for the black and Rigid Ink for the white. The RI is good but expensive, the filamentive is not quite as good but close and a fair bit cheaper. I didn't make notes of the print time but it was around 24 hours as I had to do the sight twice. Outer Shell I've had some issues with sag on some parts where they needed support but nothing outrageous that a bit of filler can't fix. I'm hoping I'll be able to glue the white parts before assembly as the originals look to be 1 part and there's some minor warping I'd prefer to address with glue and not just rely on the screws. Starting to test parts I've made a cursory start at post processing using some files to smooth and round some edges and fix some minor flaws from support or lack of in a few places. I still have to print the mounting bracket but there's no urgency as that shouldn't take long I just need to do it. SE-44C Parts Screws will be ordered once I've finished my Christmas shopping. I'll probably just order 1 set of M4 and 1 set of M3 and cut them down as needed. As they are only available with the driver bit they are significantly more expensive than normal hex heads. In all very happy with my starting point and I am looking forward to making, slow, progress on the build.

I've got most of the images from this thread backed up to the links below. Im missing the ones in the last few posts by dashrazor, I'll try and get those next week when I'm back at work with a working photobucket fix. I'll keep them on my flickr but can't guarantee they will be on my dropbox forever. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7ds5s7e2aw1014t/AADz0T3zvMPfdJXSdi1ueJmsa?dl=0 https://flic.kr/s/aHsksJm33Q

I've got all 31 (as I said there's duplicates) here : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l4n66xkrw4m2ezr/AADUJqmu-DubUNWePGVq3Arna?dl=0 or https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7oJEaA I've run out of quota on my account I won't be able to re-load them directly to the forum. I've left the filenames as per the original post. I'll keep them on my flickr until they go the way of the dodo but I can't guarantee they will be on my drop box forever.

Re-uploading images lost in the Photobucket apocalypse.

Re-uploading images lost in the Photobucket apocalypse.