themaninthesuitcase

Thanks guys!

Name = Chris Pearson 501st ID = 10911 FISD forum name = themaninthesuitcase Garrison = UK Garrison 501st Profile = http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21319 EIB Thread = http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37103-tk-10911-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-anovos-578/ Armor = Anovos Helmet = Anovos Blaster = Doopy Doo full resin Height = 176cm Weight = 82kg Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = RWA Gloves & Hand Plates = Imperial Supply Depot Electronics = TKVoice, Aker & Wireless Trooping Systems Neck Seal = Anovos Holster = Anovos Armor Photos Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Right Side Detail Left Side Detail Armor Details Side Rivets Kidney Notch Gloves Shoulder Bridge Front Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Elastic Thigh Pack Attachment Sniper Knee Attachment Drop Box Back Crotch/Butt Detail Wrist return Helmet Detail Photos Front Side Back Hovi tip detail [/url] S Trim Lens color (Backlit if necessary) Neckseal Blaster left side Blaster right side Blaster D Ring Thermal detonator back Interior Strapping Abdomen Detail Action Shot

Ill bare this in mind in my next build.

I really can't see anything wrong. Tube stripes were hand painted on ANH helmets so there was no "side" to get wrong. The left one on mine also isn't as tight at the back due to the template not wanting to curve on that tube. Not one person even noticed.

Thanks for the app plug! Also got a mention for EIB. I should have done my centurion images and could have been in there 3 times doh!

This evening it was time for my first post troop repair. Previously I'd tried to fix a crack on the rim of the bucket with some ABS paste. This has simply cracked again To fix it I was going to use some acetone to "glue" on some scrap ABS but the position made this pretty impossible, even with some thin scrap. I decided to try a fix suggested at the troop which is to super glue some fabric on. I think the ideal would have been some t-shirt but I don't have anything suitable to cut up at the moment. What the wife found was some thin white cotton from a nativity costume. To apply it I dropped a few drops of super glue on the crack and then pressed on the fabric. I then tried to saturate the fabric with more super glue. As the fabric was pretty thin I did a second layer to try get more strength through layering. The fabric over lapped into the hole so this was trimmed with scissors. The patches were cut to be larger than the crack to stop the crack running any further and thicken up this thin area. I did also consider soaking the fabric in acetone rather than superglue but I was worried the thinness of the material here would warp or melt through. I'm still toying with the idea of sanding/filing back the out side and applying paste to melt and fill the crack too now it's reinforced from the rear.

First things first: Once again thank you to everyone who made this possible. After the troop I had a few sore spots, and after a chat with one Mr Haggis I've started some extra trimming. For the biceps and fore arms I've reduced down the returns a lot. I've left a bit as I prefer the look with a bit of return. This wasn't a huge problem area but I'm hoping this will give me a bit more are movement. That said it's loosening up a bit with use, I could do the shoulder poppers my self for example which I couldn't do when I first suited up. The biggest issue was a rub on the top of my left knee from the front of the thigh. I've started fixing this in a few ways. Removed the foam from the back of the thigh. This isn't really needed the foam in the shin stops the sniper plate hooking. Reduced the return at the bottom of the thighs. This was about 7-8mm it's now more like 3-4mm. Still enough to give the illusion of thickness but less to dig into my knee. Trimmed the top of the rear of the thigh. The last one is the big one and should mean the thigh twists less and can go up a bit higher. This was what I spoke to Bill about who said not worry about the squared off back, the originals didn't have them. Working off images like below, and the shape of my big fat bottom I've started to trim away at the top. I think I can go a bit further still. It's easy to take off but a pain to put it back. The shape is a bit odd and is based on removing the minimum needed to get a good fit. It's already considerably better. Twist is reduced and it's being pushed down less. I suspect I'll remove a bit more but time ran out this evening so I might wait to troop it again before I cut again. Once the final position is nailed down I'll round off any remaining points like one the left thigh.

I'm actually rather surprised at the kit. Despite having sworn off them, if I had the money I'd probably have been first in line on this one.

If you run the numbers it's actually surprisingly close to a fan made kit once you account for this comes with a premium line bucket, boots, gloves and gaskets.

Gloves from ISD came today. I went with the silicone option rather than latex as theres a chance one of my daughters has a latex allergy and also it's becoming more common so I wouldn't want to give someone at a troop a reaction. The gloves are a nice thin material compared to my Black HD Marigold brand ones so I might actually be able to feel what I'm holding, like say an E-11. The silicone has a few small holes from air bubbles during casting but nothing too alarming. These where the last parts I was waiting on for my Centurion application. However I've still got to address the shoulder bell gap. The elastic is the correct length, or at least pretty close to it. The issue is my shoulder doesn't fit into the bell properly so they all need to be heat formed to flare them out a touch. As I am trooping tomorrow I won't be doing that until either Sunday or Monday. I'll need to take some elastic off too allow for this so I'll have to check how much I've got left. Once all that's done I should be okay to go for Centurion which will be a nice achievement if I can get it.

Thanks thats perfect. I wasn't sure where I'd need to apply the pressure. I'm guessing you dunked the whole bell?

Would you mind detailing what you did to them when heated? I have the same issue, the elastic is the right length but my shoulders push them out more than I'd like.

I binned my DD flash guards and used some 3D printed ones. For the front stock I added a screw to fit into the slot which is molded in but needs filing out.

Got news from Imperial Supply Depot that my new gloves are ready so those are now paid for. Probably won't be here in time for my first troop on Saturday but oh well. Should be good to go for centurion next week though which is nice. I also got a helmet bag today which I should have done a long time ago.

Someone on the FB group was asking how I wired my fans so I drew a schematic:

The end bits are 50mm sqares, the strips are 1.5" wide (yay for mixed units!). I can't tell you the length though. I basically cut long strips of paper and then glued them together to get the shape than transfered that to the ABS. If I come accross something suitable I will but once I rough up the surface the hot glue is actually pretty strong. It required some decent effort to pull it off the switch that came off.

When positioning the end cap clip it should only be engaged when the cap is fully pressed in. So if the cap is held out under the spring pressure (which is totally doable with the wire in the T-Jay kit as mine is) you have about a 2-3mm ish gap between the end of the clip and the cap. This threw me so mines actually in the wrong place. Ninja edit to add reference image: Looks like you've done a FAR better job of all your drilling than me too! Did you use a drill press?

I had an epiphany this evening: aka an I'm an idiot moment. I have LOTS of foam... So I cut some of the left over bits from the leg armour in half to make it 1/2" thick cut it to 2" square and bingo, no vibration noise! I also had to re-glue one the switches back on. This was the one I'd not roughed up the plastic on before gluing so this time gave it a quick rub with the 180 to give the glue something to grip to. Primitive but functional. The battery is held in with velcro in the chin. It's a bit long but there's not really anywhere else to put it. I will look into a new battery that doesn't need to be turned on and maybe I can find one a cm or so shorter. The green gaff tape is there as it sticks to the battery better than the velcro and also means I can write my name on it in case I misplace it at a troop. Despite the fans pointing directly at the mic it doesn't pick them up at all, so I am really happy with the Wireless Trooping Systems setup. I probably only need 1 fan running but having two gives me some options. They aren't the quietest fans ever but in a busy hall you wouldn't hear them, I might not hear you though however. This is all just held in with friction so easy enough to remove if I decide I don't like it. edit: just found a short USB right angle adapter I'll try but will take a while to get here.

They are an FISD member and there was a thread in one of the sales forums. I got mine on here.

I finished up the hovi tip update last night: After 4 coats of the matt white they looked like this (still not glued back together, just placed) For the mesh I used a sieve from, I think, Poundland. I applied a layer of tape to each side and drew around a 2p. I cut them out with some kitchen scissors, after telling the wife if this killed them I'd buy some more. With the tape on it was actually rather stiff. To bend them to shape I used an AA battery and pushed them over the end until it was as good as it was going to get. They are still slightly domed rather than flat but it will have to do. They were pushed in from the rear, using the battery to help align things. This scratched the paint a bit so this was touched up after they were super glued in place. When I went to screw them back on 1 came apart. They are made of 3 parts, 2 black plastic parts that might have been injection moulded and a resin part that was clearly moulded from a SLS 3D printed master. A couple of drops of super glue had it back together. Back on the bucket and ready for Centurion approval, just waiting on the gloves really.

The battery is 3350 mA and the fans quote 0.14A on them. If my maths is right that's in the 10-12 hour region.

not yet, the longest I've gone so far is about 5 minutes lol.

It's meant be white I've checked a few place but it's a real not big deal, but in for a penny... The Tamiya paint was £1.44 a jar (plus £2 because I didn't want to drive out to the store again which means a full shopping trip and so is cheaper). I needed it anyway to touch up the mess of the glue so painting the insides is not really any more work. I might have something I can use but I'm so close to done I'd rather wait and get the right thing which is some 2mm craft foam.

I've just posted a couple of images of my set up to my build thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35424-themaninthesuitcase-anovos-ahn-stunt-build/?p=493944

Progress on 2 fronts: Front 1 - Fan brackets. I've not completed my basic bracket and fans which work quite well, there is one issue, well 2, though which I will come back to. The bracket is basically 2 1.5" wide strips with a kink at the end and a 5cm square to mount the fan to. They are joined in the middle by 2 M4 screws, and the fans are mounted with M3 screws. The fans are individually switchable via the switches which are just hot glued on. These are easily accessible from the back so a spotter could access these reasonably subtly to switch as needed. Who doesn't love lime green gaff tape? The wiring is all hidden along the back and secured with gaff tape because it's what I had. It's all hard soldered, no plugs to come loose. There's also lots of heat shrink to cover the joins and make things stronger. The power lead is a USB cable cut from one of those dual USB type A cables for high draw devices. I cut of the power only cable to use for this. The whole thing works really well and blows air up to the eyes and keeps the bucket from warming up. The battery fits nicely at the front of the bucket and doesn't really need any further securing there. Also being at the front means I can see it. Whilst Anker makes good stuff I'm still wary of having a battery so close to my head. I mentioned issues: 1 - The battery needs a button pushing to turn it on. This was not mentioned in the Amazon listing which is super annoying or I'd have got a different one. Whilst not a complete disaster it does mean if I turn off both fans after about 30s I can't turn them back on again with out taking off the bucket which means a trip back to the changing room. 2 - This is a bigger issue. The fans vibrate against the bucket and make a right racket. If I hold them to stop the vibration its FAR quieter. I'll need to add some craft foam or something to the back to stop the vibration transfer but that will gave to wait for now as the budget has been blown. So I have a nice fan set up I can't use yet, which makes me sad Front 2 - Hovi tips: I've discovered Tamiya paint is pretty decent, thin, but decent so I ordered their XF-2 matt white for the tips. As it's quite thin it's taking a few coats to get good coverage. Before paint After 1 coat After 2 coats. I'm hoping 3 coats should do the job which will be done this evening and mean I can get on with adding the mesh from a sieve. You can also see where I'm painting the insides of the "tube" white to better match the original items. Not needed but a nice touch.