themaninthesuitcase

Is there a list somewhere? Or at least has one been started? I can see these ones thanks to a plugin so I can rescue them, then it's just a case of is there a specific place we want them or shall I just throw them into my flickr? edit: I just saved off all the images. There's actually only 31 as there's a couple duplicates.

For me roughly its this: Kids get high fives and fist bumps, adults get the full Imperial treatment. There's exceptions but that's the gist of it. I've also acted as an interface to Lord Vader a few times with shy kids. They won't go near him, but a TK can bridge that gap and help reduce the fear of standing next to him for a photo, just make sure you know when to stop pushing, upsetting children is not what this is about.

Well done Dan, welcome to the EIB ranks!

They also do a special clear that minimises the dulling you’d get from a normal clear.

I'm sure there will be a chance before that it's just a case of where and if you can/want to do it. That said outside of the cinema troops Dec-Feb will be very quiet.

Either is fine as I read them the same in the given context, so go with what ever if felt reads the clearest. It was more the by enforcing paint you rule out something that is actually closer to the film for something that's not even visible in general use.

Sean modeled and released a full Shoretrooper for 3D printing and used it to be cleared into the 501st. He made the files available for free to those who wanted them.

That's why I said "Should be black" not how they are black. Saying "painted black" mandates paint even if you have a screw that is black via some other process such as Japanning.

"should be black" rather than painted black. I am lead to believe the originals where japanned rather than painted, this shouldn't be prohibited by the wording. "Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, counter sync and painted white."

Dust pan, and if its really bad? a wet wipe. That's all I used and I built mine in the lounge! On a big drop sheet admittedly and I did need to dust the next day. In a garage you'll be fine. But you definitely want a proper respirator, that resin dust is nasty. Screwfix: I like the JPS Force 8 with the Press to Check P3 filters* but I used to use a 3M 4251. Both are great but the JSP one allows for replacement filters and is only £1 more. * I have a big head so need a Large JSP mask, the screwfix one is medium which fits most people. I used the standard 3M one.

You will need to use an external hosting service such as imgur or flickr. Then just post the image links they provide in here

Just to be sure, as it’s not clear, have you done both the UKG form and the 501st form? They both need to be done to be issued your TKID.

You use an external service like Flickr or imgur and then you use the links they give you. I’m sure there’s guides on both somewhere but I’m on my phone.

Still here? Get on with it lad! (As much as I joke doing it before branding is easier as there’s no decal to worry about) Congratulations on the clear.

For L3, yes. We should be aiming or as close to screen accurate as is practical.

Marks going to clear this no problem. Hope you have an Id picked out!

The bicep was clearly overlap, with the cover strip moulded into the outer side. For centurion I feel this should be the mandated construction. Forearm is overalap also. The bottom cover is moulded in the top one appears to be a separate piece added on later. Reference: Rear bicep: Rogue One Stormtrooper Reference CE 2016 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Front bicep, front forearm: Rogue One Stormtrooper Reference CE 2016 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr Rear forearm: Rogue One Stormtrooper Reference CE 2016 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr You'll probably want to click through to view at full resolution.

Ideally you don’t need adhesive as the trim would be a tiny bit too long and so pressure fits against its self and holds the trim in. However if that’s not the case I had success with UHU holding my brow trim.

It's air bubbles in the cheap resin they use. Better materials and or process would fix it but then it wouldn't be a cheap kit anymore. The fix here would be to filler primer, fill and sand them before the gloss coat. It's hard work but that's about all you can do.

For reference I used something like nearly 2 of the large cans of the Halfords matt but that was outside so I am sure a lot was wasted to the wind.

The trim would suggest ROTJ, but generally the shapes look FX like. Then there’s all the rivets everywhere and weathering. This might clear but you’ve got your work cut out to get it there. I strongly doubt you could clear this in our garrison for example even with heavy modification.

Sounds like the thing that does go missing during an update and easy enough to miss. Well done for spotting it!

Which one did you order? Seems theres 3 options 2 of which seem broken and a 110v one. The default is one of the "litteral" ones. Might grab on at pay day.

Ahh missed you were going for a hammered finish.

If it was me I'd not mask them at all, paint everything. Then finally I'd either hand paint them (which I did) or mask the blaster around them for spray. Rather than masking the complex shape of the track mask the simple cylinder like you have above, but last.