justjoseph63

If you guys purchased these using PayPal, I would definitely contact them and explain the situation. As long as you have plenty of photos of what you were expecting and what was delivered, you could very well get your money back.

Normally, if your particular designation doesn't call for a pauldron (check the CRLs) one is not worn. They are not permitted at canon troops if not listed in the CRL for your character, but what you do on your own is up to you. I personally don't recommend it, as you may be perceived as "that guy", but it is entirely up to you. You could always go HWT, though!

It's just a matter of taking your time and having the right equipment. For the butt stock, all that's really needed are a jigsaw, a few cheap files (see below), several different types of sandpaper (buy the "variety pack") and time. Here is a perfect set, which contains every type of file you would ever need: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-23-Piece-File-Set/4777065

If you are doing a scratch build, I can HIGHLY recommend one of these resin sets http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36566-spool68s-t21-resin-parts-kits/that my budduy Roger makes. The accuracy is fantastic, and great customer service to boot!

Looking GREAT, Dana, keep those pics coming!

Congrats on a textbook build, Robert! Now let's get you HWT approved, which should be easy with this pack! Do you have your MP40 ammo packs yet?

Just added a post to your submission thread sir! Here it is for anyone else who needs it, though: Making ABS paste is actually pretty simple, but there are some caveats. You will need Acetone, a small glass jar with a lid, some ABS pieces. a few popsicle sticks or the like, and some patience. This is how I have done it: I cut the ABS pieces into very small pieces/slivers, put them in the glass jar along with about half as much acetone, mix it up a bit, seal the jar and wait. Depending on how small you cut up the ABS, this can take a while. Stir occasionally. The end result should have the consistency of toothpaste, but a bit runnier. Make sure there are no lumps, (important). You may have to add more acetone or ABS as needed. Clean and lightly sand down the area about 1/8 inch on both sides of the seam. Apply this stuff sparingly, using only enough to fill the gap. The reason I mention sparingly is that there will be less to sand down later. Let it dry (I waited overnight) and then you can sand it down level with the rest of the armor. I used 220 grit to start and finished up with 320. You can hit it with Novus scratch remover after for a more polished look, (or just weather it). Hope this helps! NOTE: Although fingernail polish remover contains acetone, it is not nearly strong enough to melt ABS easily. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a can of the heavy duty stuff. Trust me.

Nice job on the rivet fix, Shawn! Making ABS paste is actually pretty simple, but there are some caveats. You will need Acetone, a small glass jar with a lid, some ABS pieces. a few popsicle sticks or the like, and some patience. This is how I have done it: I cut the ABS pieces into very small pieces/slivers, put them in the glass jar along with about half as much acetone, mix it up a bit, seal the jar and wait. Depending on how small you cut up the ABS, this can take a while. Stir occasionally. The end result should have the consistency of toothpaste, but a bit runnier. Make sure there are no lumps, (important). You may have to add more acetone or ABS as needed. Clean and lightly sand down the area about 1/8 inch on both sides of the seam. Apply this stuff sparingly, using only enough to fill the gap. The reason I mention sparingly is that there will be less to sand down later. Let it dry (I waited overnight) and then you can sand it down level with the rest of the armor. I used 220 grit to start and finished up with 320. You can hit it with Novus scratch remover after for a more polished look, (or just weather it). Hope this helps! NOTE: Although fingernail polish remover contains acetone, it is not nearly strong enough to melt ABS easily. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a can of the heavy duty stuff. Trust me. Don't give up! You are SO close, and I look forward to welcoming you to the rank of HWT Centurion!

Is the counter in the photo the one that you have now, or the one you are looking for?

I have an AM kit that I use exclusively for my HWT, and I must say that it is pretty heavy-duty and I have had no problems at all with cracking or splitting even after countless troops.

Looking GREAT, Rick. Outstanding job on those ABS plates. Makes me think I need to build a new pack!

I have never worked with PVC armor, but hopefully someone who has can chime in on that, Michael. Nice job on those snaps!

To bring in the shoulder bells, just shorten the straps that connect them to the shoulder bridge. The painted snaps, while not specifically mentioned in the CRL are not screen accurate. I have seen them ask people to remove it on several occasions, and since it's an easy fix I would recommend doing it. To widen the bells, you can use a hot (boiling) water bath. Just be VERY careful not to leave them in too long. Sometimes it only takes a matter of seconds. I don't suggest using a heat-gun unless you are very adept and experienced at it. Things can go south really quickly, and may cause irreparable damage.

Looking good, Michael! I would look into bringing the shoulder bells in a little closer to your shoulder straps, and it may be the photo, but it looks as if the 2 snaps on the bottom of the butt plate have been painted white, and should be unpainted. Both easy fixes!

WOW, Hideo! REALLY nice job on this build!!!! Looks as if you will pass EIB easily, as this is one of the very best level 2 submissions I have seen. Your shins are in perfect alignment with the thighs, and your ab/kidney connections are what every Trooper should strive for. The only thing (that I see) holding you back from level three are the screws on your TD. They should be flat-head "pan screws. If you have trouble sourcing these, I will send you a set free of charge. If I could make one small suggestion, (for Centurion) it would be to bring your shoulder bridges in a bit closer to the shoulder straps. 素晴らしい仕事、兄弟！

Can one ever have enough fire power? Looks as if I am going to be forced to purchase yet another Doopydoos E-11 kit and one of your finishing kits to fill up my future rack. You are a scoundrel for designing this, Tino, but hopefully just seeing it will keep the Rebels at bay.

Glen beat me to it... D'OH! LOL

If you look at the top of the main page, you will see a tab that says Costume Requirements, which is a link to the CRLs, (Costume Requirement Libraries) of all the TK related armors. Here is a quick link: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL

If you are going to do a scratch-build, I HIGHLY recommend getting in touch with Roger (spOOL68) for his resin T-21 parts. They are really well made, and his customer service is fantastic. Here is a sampling of his work: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36566-spool68s-t21-resin-parts-kits/

I'm so happy doin' the Centurion dance.. . OH YEAH! I would be interested in those screws as well. I think Marc is correct that if anyone has them available, it's Tino.

Thanks, I don't feel so old now, LOL.

Just throwing this out there, but maybe a "charging rack" for power cylinders on the bottom shelf with some blue LED lights in it? I totally plan on building one of these (much to my wife's chagrin).

You were VERY wise to glue the lenses in before mounting them, Aaron, and here is why: I hollowed out the entire center of the scope on my first DD resin build, and then glued the lenses in. Big mistake. Since it was an airtight seal, the fumes from the superglue had no place to ventilate and permanently fogged up both lenses. I may be dating myself here, but those who saw "Beverly Hills Cop" may remember detective Foley using CA glue fumes to collect fingerprints from a fishtank. Same principal.

Congrats, Kevin!! (I hope you will be using your doctorate in jurisprudence to defend the Empire, LOL).

Instead of felt, you can go to Michael's (or any major craft store) and buy something called craft foam in black. It comes in sheets, and is pretty inexpensive, crazy durable, and the color will not bleed off onto your armor.