justjoseph63

Really nice job on this build, David.. you obviously spent a great deal of time on on it, and it shows! If I could make some suggestions, they would be to include a photo of the back of your belt and a close-up of the ab button details. Does your belt have snaps to hold it in place? The reason I as is that the ab/kidney pic shows it way below where it needs to be. Also, absolutely incredible job on that blaster! They may ask you to paint the central capacitors and red wire black, though. See you at Centurion soon!

Looking good, Cody! Although it is not on the required photo list, you should add close-up detail photos of your forearm openings, and they may also ask for a sharper image of your right side detail and a pic of your ab plate with button detail. See you at Centurion level, sir!

Perhaps you could contact the admins and have them move the entire thread and change the title.

Hi, Patrick! I am assuming that you are going ESB since you need a holster with loops. I can highly recommend one of Darman's. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16744-leather-e-11-holsters-35/?hl=%2Bdarman+%2Bholster, or one of Steve's (Gazmosis) holsters.. If it is within your budget, I highly recommend going with the 8 oz. option. The 4 oz. options are good, but the heavier ones stand up to even the heaviest blaster.

Will do, my friend! I will be offering the grappling hook/box, (which will have a working retractable wire) and comlink separately or as a set, as well as the "alternative" (Hero) latex hand guards.

Coolest... sweater... ever.

Those are the ones, sir. It will not only make it more comfortable, it will keep then from snagging on your undersuit.

Looking great, Oscar! If I could make a few suggestions, it would be to trim down the cover stips on the tops of the thighs in the back, and maybe a bit off the top of the backs on the forearms. Really nice job on the alignment of your ab/kidney and back/kidney connections... see you at Centurion soon!

I would use the bracket kit to attach all the pieces that it is meant for, and then use snaps to finish it off. Here is an excellent diagram that my friend Jeff (wingnut65) made that may help for the snaps:

Merry Christmas, Robert! If you are not in a hurry, you can order one of the Doopydoos finishing kits, which contains everything you will need except for the actual D-ring: http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e11-hasbro-blaster-conversion-skin-kit-mk2-2636-p.asp, (the one that comes with it is rubbish). Hopefully someone can give you some info. for one, (I would try Tino (T-Jay). You will also need to remove the charging handle, probably by grinding it off and placing it in the proper position (look at the second diagram here:. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ The DD kit upgrade kit does not come with one, but I can make you one from resin if you like. If interested, PM me. If you study that thread, it will give you some excellent ideas for weathering, just remember that the T-tracks do not get weathered.

Awesome job on reinforcing the photo box, Robert! Looking forward to the rest of this build! If I can be of any help, just ask.

Can I ask who made this kit, Zack?

Way to go, Hugh! Welcome to the ranks of the few, the proud, the Centurions!

Welcome, Clayton, and I am glad to see that Ben sent you a link to my supply list thread. I am VERY glad to hear that you have decided to "Take your time and not mess up..." . Some future Troopers try to rush things, and inevitably have problems, so you are doing the right thing by taking your time. Having all your supplies on hand will make your life much easier, I promise. There's nothing worse than having to stop in the middle and have to order something or hit Lowe's. As the Boy Scouts say, "Be prepared"! Even with all the many great build threads and info. available here, sometimes you need to ask questions, so always feel free to do so. We are here to help every step of the way.

Congratulations, and welcome to the ranks, brother!

Here is the status of the coin run: It is still on hold. In order to do a "run" of patches, coins, etc., someone has to pay for them up front, and then mail them out. I just spent almost $800.00 for the FISD patch run and $300.00 for the HWT patch run, so it will be a while before the coins, (which will have an upfront cost of around 3 to 5 hundred dollars including set-up costs) make it to production. Sorry for the wait...

I wouldn't worry too much about having to suit up without needing help, Josh. When getting ready during a troop, there is always someone nearby who will be more than happy to lend a hand!

Hi Ari! I am not familiar with any methods on repairing fiberglass, as 99.9% of the OT TK armor we use is made from ABS plastic. The only armor I know of that is made from fiberglass is the TFA builds made by a few makers. Hopefully your goal is to join the 501st, and if so you may want to check out this thread which lists those makers whose armor is fully approvable: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/. Unfortunately, there are many places online you can buy armor that is not accepted, including eBay, so stay well clear of these. Here a few: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/

. I will have these complete sets available in a few weeks, including the comlink, Pete. I will PM you when they are ready.

Hi Hideo! GREAT looking set of armor, sir! Unfortunately, you will need to apply for and receive your EIB badge before moving on to Centurion. Here is the link for that: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/

Way to go, Marc!!! Next up, Centurion!

I look forward to your level 3 pics, by the way, nice paint job!

Looking sharp, Marc, and I am well impressed with that blaster as well! Looks like you are (hopefully) aiming for level 3, and you are well on your way, brother. If I could offer a few suggestions, they would be to trim down the cover strips on your forearms.. (they should be flush with the edges) and you may need to trim down the small ab button plate cover a bit, (see photo). On a side note, (not that it matters for approval) I would attach a small length of Velcro (the fuzzy side) to the backs of your TD clips. This will keep them from scratching the crap out your butt plate. I see an EIB badge in your near future, and then on to Centurion! P.S. LOVING that double snap system... I swear by it.

There is a relatively easy way to fix those shoulder bridges, Kimberly. First, carefully remove those snaps. Then, you will need to make up a small batch (less than a teaspoon) of ABS paste to fill the holes, if you need help with this, just PM me or ask on this thread. Sand them down until they are level and then polish...(this is actually easier than it sounds). To re-connect them to the chest plate, use E-6000 and some clamps to hold them in place while they dry, usually 12 to 24 hours. Will it take some time? Short answer- Yes. Will it be worth it? Definitely!

A lot of it depends on whether it is a Hyperfirm or home/scratch built, BJ. With a Hyperfirm you could use a soft case, as it is basically indestructible. The same with a home-built as long as you don't bang it around too much. You might try a gun store to find out what size you will need. I personally have never used a case for my HF, and never run into a problem carrying it to or from a troop.