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justjoseph63

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Everything posted by justjoseph63

  1. The T-21's from Hyperfirm are awesome. I modded mine up quite a bit by adding the tubing, rear site, top and bottom greeblies, wire coil, strap, and replacing the entire deck with one made from resin. The only problem with the T-21's are that they do tend to get a bit heavy after 2-3 hours of trooping, but to me it's worth it.
  2. Along with the list of "who to buy from", there is also a list of who NOT to buy from" located here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/. Jedi Robe is the last one on the list.
  3. I have those rivets on the way, Randy. SO CLOSE!
  4. Congrats on your upcoming BBB day, John! As for the rare earth magnets, I recommend getting nothing smaller than 20 mm x 3 mm, like these: ------------------- Anythying smaller and you will have to double them up for strength. The smaller ones are also harder to work with as they stick together. And by stick together, I mean REALLY adhere to each other. You can actually break a fingernail trying to separate them if you are not careful. I also suggest wrapping each one individually in 2 layers of painters' tape. This way, they will not scratch your armor. When separating them or removing them from your armor after gluing, hold one in place an slide the other one off. It's probably best to wait until you have your kit to take measurements for the strapping. Something that will make this MUCH easier is a wood-burning tool like this one https://www.lowes.com/pd/Weller-Electric-15-Piece-Wood-Burning-Kit/3402984or a soldering iron. These allow you to make clean holes in nylon and it it seals the edges at the same time. (The fumes can get a bit intense, so do this in a well ventilated area).
  5. In my opinion, THAT is how a HWT pack should look, Robert... well done!! All it needs is some weathering, and you are well on your way to joining the ranks, brother.
  6. Looking great, Ricky! Since it looks as if you will be aiming for Centurion, you will need to remove the rest of the return edges from your forearms. You have it mostly done, but the area in the hump part (on the right side in the photos) needs to go as well. (Easy fix)! Also, it may be the lighting in the photo, but is the screen in your hovi-mic tips made of white plastic? If so, that may be an issue for level 3, but again, is a super easy fix. REALLY nice job on the painting, especially those ab-buttons. I have those EIB rockers set aside for you!
  7. Wow, Tino.... just WOW! Not sure if you have chosen a color, but I would go with a dark(ish) shade of gray to highlight the black color of the blasters. If you paint it black, they may "blend in" too much, and you want to showcase those babies! To fill in that area behind the blasters on the back board perhaps you could add an Imperial cog decal and BLAS TEC decal in aurebesch. Can't wait to see the finished product!
  8. A quick tip for when you paint those with the template, Chris.. After pressing them on firmly, hit them with a light coat of white paint first and let it dry for 5 to 10 minutes. This will seal the edges, so that when you paint the blue on it won't bleed underneath.
  9. Or this:-----------
  10. Excellent advice, Andrew! You should post and pin that reply.
  11. I understand your feelings exactly, Sarah. Do I have a few discreet greeblies my pack? Yes! Everyone likes to add their own little things to truly make it their own and make their pack stand out a bit, but I have seen things that are way beyond that. There has to be a certain amount of consistency, though, which is why we have the CRLs. Even there, it states that the pack should closely match the one seen in the series. A few unobtrusive greeblies are one thing, but I have noticed everything short of a lighted disco ball used. Imagine that you have 2 HWTs at a troop. One has a regular pack, and one has a pack with a flashing light display, a video monitor with "Star Wars" playing (replete with stereo sound) and tons of extra added pieces, making it look way different. It would look odd. Being a Heavy Weapons Trooper is great, and allows us a certain degree of individuality (which I am all for), but things can get carried too far, which is why we need to set some standards and continuity among us.
  12. Epoxy (polyepoxide) contains hazardous chemicals, and while drying (and up to two weeks after) it emits respirable fumes, which can cause problems with your nose, throat and lungs, sensitization and asthma. I wouldn't recommend using epoxy on any parts of an armor build. It's better to (pardon the pun) stick with E-6000. It has fumes of it's own, and should be used in a well ventilated area. When dry, however, (24 hours) it is harmless.
  13. Not sure on that one.. The helmets come unassembled, so all you would need are the ears. I would contact them and find out, and if they do, maybe they could send you those instead of the Stunt ears.
  14. Welcome to the FISD, Andy, and great to hear that you are doing your research! There is a ton of information here, but don't let it overwhelm you. There are some fantastic Troopers up in the "Great White North", and I am sure they will be a big help to you on your TK journey. After you choose your armorer, my advice is to check out some of the build threads of folks who have that particular kit, as each one has their own little nuances. Another thing that will help is to look over the Advanced Tactics section at the EIB and Centurion submissions. These will help to show you how to make your armor more screen accurate, and hopefully you will be aiming for that. Lastly, once you have ordered your kit I suggest getting all of your build supplies in place before it arrives. It will make your life much easier, believe me! I have a thread that will help, and a link is located under the large avatar below. Take your time, ask questions, and I look forward to your build thread!
  15. It is also possible to transform 4 bump ears into 3. I did this on my Anovos bucket, but it takes some time and patience. I sanded down the inside of the bump, removed the paint from the outside of it, filled in the inside and outside areas with ABS paste and then (using needle files) re-carved the notches. After that I repainted them.
  16. In the mail today. Tracking # sent to you via PM.
  17. Since you are doing all the mods, Robert, I would think about repainting. It looks as if you have the entire blaster done in a semi-gloss finish. In theory, it should be done in a flat finish, but the grip can stay shiny. There is a fantastic thread that will help you immensely located here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ Pretty much everything you always wanted to know about an E-11, and more!
  18. There are a few options for the DLT-19s... Some prefer a scratch-built, and there are resin and 3-D printed varieties but a lot of HWTs go for the Hyperfirm. They are pretty much indestructable and great for trooping.
  19. Great to hear that we have another HWT on the way! Congrats on your AM purchase, that armor is what I use for my HWT, and it has served me well. There are some fantastic pack builds you can choose from in the HWT section. I used a combination (mash-up) of Tony's (ukswrath) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30034-hwt-backpack-build-part-1/ and Charles' (Templar726) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30222-templars-hwt-pack-build/, and it came out great. I have a thread there that may help as well http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40081-tip-note-on-hwt-pack-specs/ If I can be of any help with where to find supplies (ammo packs, etc.) just PM me.
  20. Then again, you are rebellious rascal, Glen.
  21. It's about time, Shawn! LOL Looking great, sir. I noticed that the rivet(s) on your thigh ammo pack have an indentation of some sort. They should be solid head fasteners, though. If you should need to replace them it's really easy, and I can shoot you a few of either the double cap or split rivets that will work (no charge). Nice pack!
  22. The helmet should (in theory) be purchased from the same maker of the armor you have so that the color of the ABS matches. Most come in kit form, but a few makers can supply you a finished product. Are the canvas/ABS belts missing? If not they should fit you if you are roughly the same size , but if so there are several canvas belt makers like Rob http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/?hl=%2Bcanvas+%2Bbelt+%2Bfor+%2Bsale. I own a few of his belts and they are great! The ABS belt can be purchased directly from the armorer, depending on who made it. The list is here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ I have the hand guards available in both latex and silicone http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-latex-hand-guards-for-centurion-level-anh/and boots can be purchased from TKboots http://tkboots.com/ or Imperial boots http://www.imperialboots.com/ There is also a sales section here which will help: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/16-ongoing-sales-project-orders/ Just remember that you will need to have the armor approved again at basic level to get your official TK number, as well as EIB and Centurion if you (hopefully) are aiming for those levels. Since it was already approved once, this shouldn't bee too difficult. If we can help out, just let us know!
  23. That is correct, Jake. The rivets are the 5/16ths head bifurcated (split) type. For exact measurements, I would refer to Tony's Anovos build, located here on page 20 : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/page-20?hl=%2Brivet+%2Bplacement#entry466149 Scroll down about 5 posts for photos. If you need a set of them, just let me know via PM and I will hook you up, no charge.
  24. "The year of the HWT".. With all the Heavy Weapons Troopers joining the ranks, you may be right on that! Now, if we could only infiltrate the MEPD and convince those wannabe Sandies to forego all that orange and red dirt in favor of black weathering (and a MUCH less expensive pack) we would be in business, LOL! (I may be a little bit biased, though)
  25. Anovos pretty much ships on their own schedule. In the meantime, I would concentrate on the various build threads available here, especially Tony's (ukswrath) which has become the "go-to" site for Anovos builds. Hopefully you will be aiming for EIB and Centurion level, (not that hard to do). Here are a few tips: 1. While Anovos has a fantastic holster, the canvas belt that comes with it is,... uhhh.. garbage. Check out the "For sale" section and get a quality one. 2. Don't be tempted to use the Velcro strapping system that comes with it. Velcro wears out over time with use, so I would go with the snap system. If you need details on this, just PM me. 3. While waiting for Big Brown Box day, get all of your build supplies in order. I have a thread that can help: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ 4. When your kit arrives, start a build thread with photos. Most of us (including myself) had a lot of questions, and if you should have any, a picture really is worth a thousand words. 5. Know that we are here to help.
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