justjoseph63

Awesome job on reinforcing the photo box, Robert! Looking forward to the rest of this build! If I can be of any help, just ask.

Can I ask who made this kit, Zack?

Way to go, Hugh! Welcome to the ranks of the few, the proud, the Centurions!

Welcome, Clayton, and I am glad to see that Ben sent you a link to my supply list thread. I am VERY glad to hear that you have decided to "Take your time and not mess up..." . Some future Troopers try to rush things, and inevitably have problems, so you are doing the right thing by taking your time. Having all your supplies on hand will make your life much easier, I promise. There's nothing worse than having to stop in the middle and have to order something or hit Lowe's. As the Boy Scouts say, "Be prepared"! Even with all the many great build threads and info. available here, sometimes you need to ask questions, so always feel free to do so. We are here to help every step of the way.

Congratulations, and welcome to the ranks, brother!

Here is the status of the coin run: It is still on hold. In order to do a "run" of patches, coins, etc., someone has to pay for them up front, and then mail them out. I just spent almost $800.00 for the FISD patch run and $300.00 for the HWT patch run, so it will be a while before the coins, (which will have an upfront cost of around 3 to 5 hundred dollars including set-up costs) make it to production. Sorry for the wait...

I wouldn't worry too much about having to suit up without needing help, Josh. When getting ready during a troop, there is always someone nearby who will be more than happy to lend a hand!

Hi Ari! I am not familiar with any methods on repairing fiberglass, as 99.9% of the OT TK armor we use is made from ABS plastic. The only armor I know of that is made from fiberglass is the TFA builds made by a few makers. Hopefully your goal is to join the 501st, and if so you may want to check out this thread which lists those makers whose armor is fully approvable: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/. Unfortunately, there are many places online you can buy armor that is not accepted, including eBay, so stay well clear of these. Here a few: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/

. I will have these complete sets available in a few weeks, including the comlink, Pete. I will PM you when they are ready.

Hi Hideo! GREAT looking set of armor, sir! Unfortunately, you will need to apply for and receive your EIB badge before moving on to Centurion. Here is the link for that: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantryman-status/

Way to go, Marc!!! Next up, Centurion!

I look forward to your level 3 pics, by the way, nice paint job!

Looking sharp, Marc, and I am well impressed with that blaster as well! Looks like you are (hopefully) aiming for level 3, and you are well on your way, brother. If I could offer a few suggestions, they would be to trim down the cover strips on your forearms.. (they should be flush with the edges) and you may need to trim down the small ab button plate cover a bit, (see photo). On a side note, (not that it matters for approval) I would attach a small length of Velcro (the fuzzy side) to the backs of your TD clips. This will keep them from scratching the crap out your butt plate. I see an EIB badge in your near future, and then on to Centurion! P.S. LOVING that double snap system... I swear by it.

There is a relatively easy way to fix those shoulder bridges, Kimberly. First, carefully remove those snaps. Then, you will need to make up a small batch (less than a teaspoon) of ABS paste to fill the holes, if you need help with this, just PM me or ask on this thread. Sand them down until they are level and then polish...(this is actually easier than it sounds). To re-connect them to the chest plate, use E-6000 and some clamps to hold them in place while they dry, usually 12 to 24 hours. Will it take some time? Short answer- Yes. Will it be worth it? Definitely!

A lot of it depends on whether it is a Hyperfirm or home/scratch built, BJ. With a Hyperfirm you could use a soft case, as it is basically indestructible. The same with a home-built as long as you don't bang it around too much. You might try a gun store to find out what size you will need. I personally have never used a case for my HF, and never run into a problem carrying it to or from a troop.

First, CONGRATS, Hugh! You should be very proud of this outstanding job, Trooper. Now, I have some more good news for you... Paul (BritBulldog) TK 22610, has been kind enough to pay for an FISD patch and EIB rocker for you! He ordered some for himself and an extra of each and asked me to send them to the next person to make level 2. Now THAT is truly Troopers helping Troopers! Please PM me your full name and shipping address and I will get those in the mail for you.

Brian is absolutely spot-on about using the nylon webbing to attach the snaps to the armor as shown in Paul's photo. I used the plastic backed snap plates on my first build, but found that a few came off. The nylon conforms to the shape of the armor better, especially on the curved parts.

We wish you a merry Christmas. (static burst).. and a happy (static burst) new year!

I'm digging that Christmas kilt!

I hope there is an upcoming photo to go with this statement, Scott. My advice is not to worry... whatever it is we can help you work it out. I promise you that however bad it may seem, there are dozens if not hundreds of folks who have the same issue.

Looks great, Jon! If you haven't glued the aluminum plate over the ejection port in yet, and would like to add a serial number as seen in the reference thread, you can send it to me and I will imprint it for you with whatever numbers/letters you would like. No charge, just mail it in a small padded envelope (postage is less than $1.00) and I can get it back in the mail for you the next day. If interested, just PM me.

The bayonet lug is on backward, Jon. The divot (indentation) faces the rear. If you go to the E-11 blaster reference guide and look at the photos under Bayonet Lug it shows this: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/#entry414340

Just a couple of quick notes, Kim.. First, are those magnets holding the shoulder straps on? If you are going for ROTJ, those need to be rivets. And if you could post a photo of the cod without the belt. It may be the angle, but it looks as if you might have trimmed it a bit too much. I would also bring the shoulder bells in until the tops touch (or almost touch) the shoulder bridge connection. Keep up the great work!