justjoseph63

Latex will tend to yellow over time, Justin. Like you mentioned you can always paint them using latex paint, as was done in the films and how I did mine. Be sure to clean them thoroughly first. I sell the bright white silicone ones, which will never, ever yellow if you are interested. Here is the thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-fs-latex-and-silicone-hand-guards-for-level-3/

Where did you purchase your kit from, John?

The color of the ABS can vary between makers can be quite different, so like Brian mentioned, it's better to stick with one armorer for the whole kit.

Looking good, Tye! You might want to replace the photo of the ab-button detail in photo 8. It doesn't match the updated version in photo 7.

First, CONGRATS on a well deserved accomplishment Derrick, and welcome to the ranks! I am envious as hell of the job you did on that bucket interior, and that blaster is one of the best looking ones I have seen to date. Incredible attention to detail. Now you get to start all over on your journey to HWT, and I am looking forward to seeing you take that one all the way to Centurion as well!

They sometimes assist us getting suited up, take photos for the public, walk in front of us to warn us of obstacles, (curbs, steps), escort us to the restrooms/break areas, pick up fallen armor pieces, protect us from kids smacking us with toy lightsabers, keep us informed, and a myriad of other things. They are an invaluable part of the team, and an absolute must-have on most troops. Many times they are members who didn't suit up for some reason, but occasionally future troopers can volunteer for this duty.

I noticed that you live in the Orlando area. There is a member of the Makaze Squad (Central FL.) who has armor parties on a fairly regular basis, and you would be more than welcome to drop by (even before you get your armor), ask as many questions as you like and meet some of the members as well as the other new folks. While waiting for your kit to arrive, you can also volunteer to be a "handler" at one of our events, (over 260 last year in the Orlando area). This position is a very important part of any troop, and depending on how far you are willing to travel there are lots of opportunities. If you are interested, or if there is anything I can do to help, just PM me.

Looks like this is one busy guy! -------------- Who knows how many other peoples' work this dirtbag is recasting!

Looking SHARP, Hugh! Outstanding attention to detail overall great build, brother. I can see that EIB badge under your name soon.. then onto Centurion!

It's not just for larger framed Troopers, though! I am 5' 10, 155 and it trimmed up just dandy. A very sturdy set of armor. If I had a complaint, it would be that replacement parts are basically impossible to get.

I found the exact thing you are looking for, Shawn: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coast-53016-Toilet-Tank-Float-Ball-/252063867970?hash=item3ab02d6442:g:HOMAAOSwd0BV1jc5 I wonder if one of the game designers was also a plumber, LOL

Absolutely, Josh, just follow the directions in the first post and I can get those in the post the next day.

I forgot to add, Timothy, please don't be sorry about asking questions. We are here to help!

Looks sharp, Erik! I like the simple design, which doesn't detract attention away from the weapon

I think that may be your problem, Tye. On PB, you should choose the second box down under each photo that says Direct instead of the IMG option at the bottom. Give it a try and see if that works. If you need any further assistance just let me know, and best of luck on your EIB! You will also need to list the following information on the top of your submission thread: Mandatory Information Armor = Armor Maker Helmet= Helmet Maker Blaster= Blaster Type Optional Height = Your Height Weight = Your Weight Boots = Boot Maker Canvas belt = Belt Maker Hand Plates = Hand Plate Type Electronics= Voice Electronics Maker Neck Seal = Neckseal Type/Maker Holster = Holster Maker

Done!

Run away from this, Timothy, run away very fast (unless you are looking for an expensive Halloween costume). This person is listed on out "List of people to avoid" http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/ If, however, you are (hopefully) looking to join the 501st, here is a thread that will help you find a set of armor that is from a reputable maker that is 501st approvable: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

I am sooooo stealing that pauldron idea, Glen. AWESOME pics! Wow.. just noticed, is that a Christmas stocking over your holster?

The first time I ordered from them it took a little over 7 weeks for it to arrive. Numerous emails went unanswered, so after 6 weeks I finally got fed up and contacted PayPal to ask if they could intervene. Not cancel the payment, but find out what the problem was. Mysteriously, I got an email from DD the next day, and 5 days later my kit arrived safe and sound. I have ordered from them several times since then, and now know that it is simply a waiting game. Your item will arrive, but on their own sweet time.

Fantastic job on that armor, Jess, and I don't see any reason why you shouldn't have you TK ID number soon! Great to hear you are heading for level 2!

I would go with snaps, Matt. The Velcro system Anovos supplies is OK, but it can come undone on a troop (I have witnessed this several times) and will wear out eventually from opening and closing it frequently. Snaps are permanent, which is why they are the choice of folks on the vast majority of builds. I actually use 2 snaps on each side of my connections, which guarantees no seam separation or slipping.

That can be a tricky one, Cody. You can try heat bending that area by immersing it in a hot water bath for a few seconds (just until needed), bending it in a little and then running cold water over it to set it, but sometimes when you do that it causes the sides of the butt plate to flare out because of the curve. If that happens, you might try to trim (taper) that area down a bit first. It will also make a bit more "comfortable" in that area, if you know what I mean. (No chafing). Be careful when heating it though, and only submerge it for 5 to 10 seconds the first time to get the feel of how much time it will need. It may take you several tries to get the taper right, but hang in there. Worse case scenario you may have to change out the elastic in that area for nylon. Great job on that armor, by the way, and congrats on your approval, Trooper! So when are we going to see your EIB submission?

Wow, Glen, you certainly have been busy! I am envious as heck of you FOTKs... you guys get all the cool toys!

It actually stays on better than you would think, Kalani. It takes quite a bit of wiping with a de-greaser to get it off.

Should be an easy fix, Xiomer!