justjoseph63

Way to go, Matthew! PM me your address, and I will send you an official 501st Legion car decal. Next up, Centurion!

From what I can see, it looks as if the bottom of your face plate is too close to the back, and could probably be extended out at least an inch or so.

Agreed, Brien. We have the best and most accurate information out there.

Welcome to the home of shiny white armor, Louis! Glen is spot on with his advice about checking out the other FOTK build threads here. In addition to doing that, this is what I would recommend: When you get your kit, start your own build thread. I say this for several reasons... The first is that you can ask all the questions you need to as well as post photos (the more the better) all in one place, and have them answered by those who have been through that build. This will also help those in the future who are going through the same type of scenario. Don't worry, there are a ton of FOTKs here who will help you figure out how to get it to basic (and higher if you wish) approval. When checking out those build threads, I would also suggest taking stock of what tools/supplies you will need for the build and getting them in place for when your kit arrives. This way, you will not be scrambling for anything during construction. Taking on a FOTK build is daunting, and remember that this will be a marathon, not a sprint. Take your time, ask questions, and remember the old saying "measure twice, (or 3-4 times), cut once".

Did you attach the faceplate to the back before attaching the ears? If so, (and it sounds like a pain to do) if you could post some detailed pics of one of the sides with the ears removed as well as the bottom and inside it would really help. My AM bucket did not (and still doesn't) line up perfectly, but I made some adjustments and it turned out nice. The S-trim can hide more than you think.

Congrats on your BBB! If I could make a suggestion, Jason, it would be to tighten up the paint at the top of the vocoder a bit. An easy way to get those curves at the top is to use a "filbert" style artist's brush, which has a rounded tip. Looking forward to the rest of your build!

SuhWEET! Looks as if your stalking persistence paid off! Do they let you keep your plates permanently? The state of Florida requires you to change them out every so often.

I think the second Trooper in the pic really says it all.. "Don't forget to check the tire pressure... it's a long trip to the other side of Scarif".

Some excellent suggestions for you there, Gil. I would personally stay with the nylon for attaching the snaps to the armor itself, as it can conform to the shapes with no problem, especially as Brien mentioned it is flexible (but strong). Q mentioned the double snaps, and I swear by it. On my first build I went with single snaps in some areas and some would pop off at inopportune times, (especially the shoulder). Below is the system I use now. It requires a bit more work and materials, but you can be assured that nothing will ever come off while you are on a troop!

Are you coming to Gary's AP this Saturday? If so, I will bring it and show/explain what I did.

I just completed an ABS printed DLT-19, and it turned out pretty well. Please note that there will be a LOT of sanding and filling though to get rid of all the print lines. (I think I had about 16+ hours on this). I also had to drill out the center and run a half inch aluminum rod inside the length for stability, but if you are doing an E-11 that shouldn't be needed. One thing that will help a lot is Rustoleum's 2 in 1 "Filler and Sandable" primer, available at Lowe's or most auto supply stores. It will indeed fill small imperfections, especially with a few coats. You will still need to sand down the ridges pretty well beforehand, though. Another thing I would highly recommend is Tino's (T-Jay) E-11 completion kits. One of these will take you leaps and bounds closer to screen accuracy. -----------

Exactly. Just like the one Q shows in the photo. I used the one inch wide (below) for certain areas like the arm connections, but the 2 inch in others. I went with the double snap system in the areas around the torso (second photo) for added security.

That's quite a collection, Gilbert, and great to see that there is an alternative to having to pay customs and shipping. I finished building my first attempt at a 3D printed DLT-19 recently, and I gotta say it was a lot of work, but also a lot of fun. DANG it was a lot of sanding and filling, though!

They are usually tailored and built very well (to Centurion standards, actually) but on the occasions that there have been problems they react very fast with replacements.

I have used nylon and E-6000 to make all connections on my armor, including AM (thicker ABS ) and Anovos (thinner ABS) and never had any sort of bulge issues. When gluing them on I never add any to the center under the snaps themselves, only the outer edges. I have seen some bulge issues on Troopers where the snaps were attached to ABS plates and CA glue was used to attach directly to the armor. As everyone knows, CA will get pretty hot while curing, especially when using an accelerant.

There is indeed a shape similar to the one you suggested, but not quite as severe of an angle. I just rounded mine out a tiny bit to get rid of the sharp angle, but it's not a necessity.

Here is an example (RS) of how it should look, Shay:

The fact that they are not leather alone is a good reason I would avoid them. Faux leather (plastic) does not breathe, and Trooping for here in mid Florida in the summer I would definitely recommend leather. Plus, I know you are aiming for Centurion! I can give you some more information in person this Saturday at the AP. I know Imperial Boots are on hold until March, but have you tried contacting RS propmasters? They don't sell boots per se, but do include them with full build commissions, so it's worth a shot asking them. http://www.rspropmasters.com/contact-us/

Like Glen, I used snaps for all connections. After a few years of Trooping and sitting in hot armor bins, elastic can (and will) stretch and wear out. (I have had this happen). When gluing the bottom (flat) part of your snap to the armor, use nylon and E-6000. That way, you can replace the top part of the snap that is attached to the elastic if needed. BUT... be SURE to use the exact same brand of snaps that you did originally, as the size can vary slightly among mfrs.

A future Trooper in my Squad just received his new AM armor, so I guess that means they are back in the saddle.

Way to go Daniel!! Congrats on your second Centurion, brother!

Rebecca is 100% correct about the "armor bite", and you can also trim out the backs of the upper part of the calf pieces if you find that they pinch. Here is a shot of a screen used calf to show what I mean: ----------

I did leave a small (1/16th) gap between the lens and opening, but just at the top. I found that this allows a small amount of air circulation which helps keep my lenses from fogging up. Speaking of which, if you should have that problem, just dab a small bit of foam style shaving cream on the inside. Rub it around, let it dry, and wipe it off with a soft dry cloth. No more fogged lenses.

Really nice job on that armor, and great to hear that you are aiming for Centurion! As mentioned, for that level you will need to bring the front of the belt up to at least touch the bottom of the ab button plate (photo 1). It can even overlap it a bit. This will help in evening it out. For the TD, a simple fix is to add some strips of 1 inch wide white Velcro to the inside (see second photo) which will keep it from sliding. Be sure to use the "fuzzy" side, though. When you get ready to shim the sides let us know.. there are a few tutorials on this that will help. Good luck on your approval, Michael, and let us know when you get your official TK ID number!

Explanations of each screw are described in my "Supply List..." thread, as well as detailed photos if anyone needs to reference them.