justjoseph63

Awww.. thanks!

Chris is SPOT-ON, Drew. The kids are super excited to see you... for about the first 10 minutes. After all the parents have taken their photos, the kids will either ignore you completely or consider themselves youngling Jedi masters and make you the perfect practice target for their plastic light sabers, while the parents just stand there and say "Awwww, isn't that cute". Unless you have a handler, I personally would advise against it. What you do with your armor is up to you, but 99.9% of kid's birthday parties are not approvable for trooping unless they make a donation to charity.

OK, future Troopers, many of you have asked about how to set snaps for your armor connections, so I thought I'd whip up a little tutorial. Please note that the example that I am making is based on using the "double snap" connection system (see last photo). I highly recommend this method, especially on the back/kidney, kidney/butt, and ab/kidney connections, as it provides an extra layer of confidence. Yes, it costs a bit more to do due to the extra snaps involved, but you can be sure that no matter what happens, you will NEVER have a piece come loose or fall off on a troop. Some builders may have used others, but after countless troops I have experienced no problems. So here we go.... Materials needed: 1. Hammer 2. Soldering (woodburning) iron. (Available at home improvement and craft stores. WELL worth the $10-$12.00 investment). NOTE: The tip of this thing gets CRAZY hot, so be very careful where you set it. Many come with multiple tips, but I suggest the pointed one. 3. Snap setting kit. (Available at all craft stores). Please note that I am showing both sides of the base... more on that later. Convex side Concave side 4. For this purpose, I am using 2 inch (5cm) wide black nylon and 1 inch (2cm) black nylon. The 1 inch strips will be attached directly to your armor. I suggest using E-6000 glue and clamps for this. 5. Snaps, of course! Don't "cheap-out" when buying these. The cheap ones come undone very easily and are garbage. For this tutorial, I am labeling the 4 parts as such: STEP ONE Cut the 2 inch strapping to about 4 inches long** (or as needed) for the particular connection. Cut the 1 inch nylon into 2 inch lengths as seen below. **NOTE: The actual length will depend on there you are using them, i.e. the kidney to posterior plate connections will be shorter. Just be sure there are no gaps, and that the 1 inch wide base pieces are in the correct position before attaching them. Example: The ends will be a bit ragged and will fray. Use the soldering tool to seal them. Again, using the soldering gun, make 4 holes in the 2 inch wide nylon as seen below. Be careful not to make them too large (just larger than the shaft of the snap base) or the snap may eventually pull out. Take one of the 1 inch wide nylon pieces and slide it up under one end of the 2 inch wide piece, even with the end. Once it is lined up, use the soldering iron to make holes in the 1 inch wide piece. This will assure that the holes for the snaps line up correctly. (VERY important)! You should end up with this: Repeat for other side, but be sure not to get the sides mixed up, as one set of holes may be farther apart. Insert one of the male bases into one of the holes in the 2 inch wide piece. Flip it over and place one of the male snaps on the post. Place the base in the concave side of the snap setting kit base. Place the striking rod in the center (straight up and down) and strike it several times firmly with the hammer. The inside shaft should be sufficiently widened to keep the top from coming off. There... your snap is set! NOTE: Do not attempt to do this step on a regular table. You need a hard surface, and a heavy duty workbench or concrete surface works best. Repeat this step for the remaining 3 holes. Now onto the 1 inch wide strips.. Insert one of the female bases into one of the holes, then (as above) place one of the female snaps on top. Place the female snap base into the convex side of the snap setting base. Again, using the striking rod, give it a few good whacks. (Getting the hang of this now)? This is what you should have at this point (only one end shown) CONGRATULATIONS, you have one strap completed! Now that you realize how easy this is and have it down to a science, repeat as necessary. NOTES 1. For added security, the double snap system can be applied to other areas as well, including shoulder bridge attachments and bicep to shoulder bridge, (example below) This is especially good for those who wear packs (HWT, Sandie, Spacetrooper). 2. Snaps set in elastic (as seen above) can pull out over time with repeated use. For added strength I recommend doubling the elastic over before attaching the snaps. 3. Be sure to use the female base on all the straps that will be glued to your armor. The reason being is that the bottoms are flat, insuring a tight seal. 4. Some folks set the female snaps in ABS instead of nylon when gluing them to the armor. There is absolutely nothing wrong with this, it's just a different way of accomplishing the same goal. The reason I use nylon is that I find it conforms to the curved parts of the armor better, and gives a larger surface area for the glue to adhere to. 5. Some use CA (super) glue to attach the 1 inch nylon to their armor. I have found that it can get brittle and break off or even cause warping on ABS due to the heat it puts off while drying. E-6000 needs to be clamped and takes more time, but trust me, it's worth the wait. 6. When gluing the 1 inch nylon to your armor, do NOT keep the 2 inch wide nylon attached with the snaps. Some of the glue may seep through the hole in the snap and glue the whole connection together. Not a good thing. If you should have any questions, just ask here or PM me, and best of luck on your build! Photo 1 (Double snap system.. note clamps). SHOUT OUTS: Gary jr. ( @flashpoint0214 ) The guy who introduced me to the double snap system! Jeremy (Copper) who supplied the nice clean photo of the double snap system.

You could always join the ranks of the HWTs, (hint hint, wink wink, nudge nudge).

Really nice job on those fixes from your EI submission, Alessio! You will need to post a pic of your updated vocoder, though, and they may ask for a photo of your wrist openings. They are pretty visible in your hand guard shot (and look GREAT), but it couldn't hurt. The link you provided to your EIB application page was actually a link to your EI certificate, but I changed it to the correct one.

DLT-19s are not "normally" carried by TKs (except ANH Hero... think Luke and Han), but the CRLs state that they are an approved weapon for ANH Stunt, but.... it comes down to what makes ya' happy! I wouldn't suggest carrying anything larger like a T-21 or PTL missile launcher though unless you are a Heavy Weapons Trooper or a Sandie. That would look a little out of place, lol.

Paul is right, there. I think very few Troopers holster their weapons anyway. The fact is, it can be almost impossible to do as it is danged near impossible to see it because of the limitations in visibility when wearing a helmet.

My bad, brother. I forgot about the silk/silk-like at level 3.

GREAT to hear that you are aiming for Centurion, Kenny! AM modified their molds a few years back, and are definitely 100% approvable to Centurion (when built to specs, of course). When you mention gloves, I think you mean hand guards, and if I remember correctly AM supplies both types with their kits. You may want to check with them first, though: [email protected]. They are really good about getting back to you quickly as well. I own a set of their armor, and even after years of countless troops it has held up fantastic (and believe me, it's been put through the wringer) with no problems.

While there are a number of ways to attach the lenses inside your bucket, I found the easiest and fastest is to use a product called SUGRU. It is a kneadable glue, sort of like play-doh (plasticine) that is super easy to work with, and will hold forever. It does keep somewhat of a pliable consistency after drying, can be removed if you ever need to and does not emit heat during the curing process like CA or Epoxy glue. It is available online (like here on Amazon) and in many craft shops, usually in packets of 3. It comes in a variety of colors, but I suggest using the black. HINT: This can be done if you have already built your helmet, but it is easier if the face plate has not been attached. This whole process will take you less than 10 minutes to attach both lenses. Here is a photo of one of the individual packets, and the contents rolled into a ball. In this instance I am using 1 packet per lens. You will need a craft (popsicle) stick, sharpened at one end: Here is the trimmed eye opening from the inside: The next step is to roll the SUGRU into a small "snake" shape about 7 inches in length. (No longer). After that, you simply press it into the outside edges of the eye opening. Note that I left an open spot at the top. I recommend this for ventilation purposes. (Helps keep your lenses from fogging up). Place the lens evenly over the opening. Using a craft (popsicle) stick, push the glue firmly into place around the outside, making contact with both lens and helmet surface. Don't worry if it seeps through to the front. Hint: This glue is strong stuff. You don't need a crazy amount of contact surface. It will not come off unless you take it off. Turn the faceplate over, and any glue that has seeped through (see red circle) can be easily removed with the sharpened end of the craft stick. Allow 24 hours for it to dry, and you are DONE!

Glad to have you here, Jared, and Frank was spot-on in suggesting that you start your own build thread. That way, all of your questions can be answered in one place, and you can post lots of photos. (We LOVE photos)! I also suggest getting all of your build supplies in order before starting. Better to have it on on hand when you need it. Hopefully you will be aiming for EI and then Centurion level **... it's really not that much more work and much easier to do during your build rather than after. Even if you choose to just get basic approval, i highly recommend ditching the crappy canvas belt that comes with the Anovos kit and getting a quality one. There are a few folks that make them here, and the quality is far beyond what comes with the kit. You may also want to go with a snap system instead of the Velcro one they supply. Lastly, below is a link to my supply list thread which may help. Remember, we are always available for questions, no matter how small. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ ** https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

While no definitive explanation has ever been given, from what I have read this would be my best guess: Since the E-11s were constructed using Sterling sub-machine guns, the original long curved magazine clip is on the left, thus the holster had to be on the left. This created a nuisance for the right handed actors, as the magazine would constantly knock into the chest peice, so most of them went to a left handed grip to avoid this. The curved magazine was eventually replaced with a shorter version and modified for the film.

Looking really nice, Chris, but you may be able to take a little more of the return edge off in a few places, especially the corners. Here is a link that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/25-helmet-eyes-a-new-hope-stunt/ Here is a detail pic of a Centurion approved ATA bucket that you can also use for a reference: If you would like me to change the name of your topic, i.e. "Chris' First Time ATA build" just let me know via PM with the new title.

Looks like you have quite a bit of sanding in front of you, Simon! I have completed a few 3-D printed projects recently, including a DLT-19. After the initial sanding, I found a product that helped me out immensely with the very fine lines. It is a combination primer/filler from Rustoleum, (pic below). I hit it with a few coats of this before final wet sanding and it came out as smooth as glass. I know Rustoleum products are available in Europe, and if you can find this there I highly recommend it, as it will definitely save you time. ----------

When it comes to magnets, there is a minimum size I always recommend, and that would be the 7/8ths by 1/8th located here on the second site you posted: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DE2 Their prices are really high, though, and as a "test" I attempted to order 2. Shipping alone was almost $18.00. Ouch. You can get the same magnets here for a LOT less, though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pcs-Super-Strong-Neodymium-Rare-earth-Magnet-Disc-for-sale-7-8-dia-x-1-8-thick/281060567507?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The reason for that size is that they have a wide surface, and if you go any thinner you will have to double up on each to get the proper adhesion. Here are a few tips that may help, based on the size mentioned above: 1. Neodymium magnets are CRAZY strong. They can (and will) jump up to 5-6 inches to reconnect with each other. If this happens they usually shatter, rendering them useless. If you happen to be holding one at the time it can hurt like hell. (Trust me). They can also shatter if dropped. 2. They obviously stick together, but when trying to separate them always slide them apart. Never try to lift them apart, as you will probably break off part of your fingernail, and never get your fingers between them. Sliding them is also recommended when removing them from your armor after the E-6000 dries. 3. Always cover each one with tape (I suggest blue painter's tape) before using. This will prevent them scratching your armor. Some use the "sachet" method, where they put each one in a small square of cloth and secure it with a zip tie. This gives you a "handle" of sorts, which makes life easier. 4. You can never have too many magnets, but I suggest at least 10. 5. When you are done with your build, I suggest selling them (at a reduced price) to someone in your area that is beginning their build. You probably won't be needing magnets that strong for anything else, and it's a nice gesture. (You can/should also pass on the above info to them). Best of luck on your build, and feel free to ask any questions you may have. We are here to help! Side note: LOVE your avatar pic, lol!!

Not sure if it needs any ABS paste, but I would definitely glue a thin ABS shim behind that crack, Ron. It will get worse if you don't.

I gotta' say that being a Stormtrooper has given me experiences that will last a lifetime.... being on stage with "Weird" Al Yancovic, trooping at Disney on many occasions, meeting Brian Muir (the guy who designed the original OT armor) and meeting hundreds of Troopers at Celebration Orlando last year. I started this whole thing a bit late in life, but I'm definitely making up for lost time, lol. That's me standing behind the banner (center) along with a few friends.

Big Brown Box day!!! If you are like most of us, you tear into it like a kid with birthday present, and then think... oh crap... I have to put this thing together! Not to worry, Chris, we are here to help. Can you post a side pic of the each helmet piece? The reason I ask is that some armorers actually trim them pretty well, and you may not have to take much (if any) off. Looks like you have 2 sets of ears, probably one Hero and one Stunt.

You should figure out exactly what Garrison you will be joining and sign up on their boards for local help. You can also get in touch (via PM) with the following 2 Imperial Attaches, who can better assist you. Anthony (Redforce) Empire City Garrison (NY)- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/profile/17506-redforce/ Preston (Pretzel) Garrison Carrida (PA.)- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/profile/25864-pretzel/

If you could post some photos of the various parts of the helmet, Chris, we can help a bit better. We can then show you the areas that need to be trimmed using imgur. (Example below in red).

I have a feeling I know who you are speaking about. (CA.?) You didn't mention where you are located, but knowing that may help in finding someone. Many (if not most) Garrisons/Squads have a "go-to" person who does commission builds. What is the nearest large city to you?

Is there any way you could post some photos of the problem areas, Jon? Even if the pieces are just held together temporarily with tape it would give a better visual so that we can better assist you. If you don't have one already, I would highly suggest getting a imgur (imgur.com) account. You can edit and post photos really easily (and free)! If you have any trouble trying to post them here, just PM me.

Actually, Karin (Sonnenschein) had two (maybe more) sets of molds. You are correct about one set going to ISD, but I have the other one.

Outstanding job on that armor, Eric! Other than what has been mentioned, the only thing I can see is that your TD screws should be the "pan head" style. The ones you have should pass, but I am sending you a set of the correct ones (no charge). A build this nice deserves it! See you at the Centurion level soon, brother.

Can I ask where you got those, Jameson? There really is no glue that I am aware of which will adhere to pure silicone, which is why (as Ben mentioned) mine come with heavy duty duck cloth embedded in the back to give the glue something to adhere to, and to date I have had no-one report problems attaching them. Here is the latest person to use one of my sets: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44456-tk-77520-requesting-anh-hero-centurion-status-tm/