justjoseph63

Awesome job, brother. Thanks for sharing these!!

Those are blue milk storage tanks.

On the vast majority of troops, I keep everything in my armor bin.. cash, phone, the lot. Over countless troops I have only felt the need to lock it once, though, as it was in an area that was unsecured. I trust my fellow 501st brothers and sisters to look out for my bin, as I look out for theirs. If you feel the need to lock up your things, you can buy a padlock for your bin and attach the key to a piece of elastic to wear around your wrist (under your glove). You can also leave it with a trusted handler.

I added an extra strap onto the left shoulder strap, 2 (1 will not work) snaps, and have had no problems. I just CA (super) glued the extra strap on (shown in red in first photo), and glued another small piece of nylon around the base of the connection for added security (shown in blue in second photo). You can hook this through either the top or bottom strap on the back of the pouch itself (photo 3). Note that canvas packs are completely approvable for Sandies, but for HWT the packs must be made of "leather or leather-like material" for basic approval. If you need a source for these, let me know via PM.

Odd fact: I asked Brian (Muir) a few years ago what the deal was with the "thumbprints" on the bicep, and he said that he did not design them that way, it was just a fluke in the vacu-forming process.

Mine are silicone, and can't (or will ever need to) be painted. I used to make them in white latex, but it does tend to turn yellow when exposed to extended sunlight, which is why I changed materials. I can start doing the latex ones and paint them, if needed. I think many people prefer the silicone, as it has a shiny bright white finish which matches ABS.

Gotcha, and thanks!!

If I may offer an opinion, I would permit elastic straps to hold hand guards on for level 3. Here is my reasoning: If someone spends the extra money to order flexible hand guards and glues them onto the rubber gloves just to reach Centurion, that's great! But as we all know, most Troopers (myself included) end up going with Nomex gloves for comfort. Then, they feel forced to buy another set of guards for the Nomex ones, and relegate the rubber ones to the bottom of the armor bin. Yes, I sell the guards, but if I can save someone the cost of buying a second set that is fine and dandy with me. Also, the part about "painted white" no longer seems to be the case. Many Centurions have used my solid white silicone guards to reach level 3. (Silicone can not be painted). How about: Hand guards shall be of the flexible type, (latex or latex like), solid or painted white, and attached to the rubber gloves via glue or black elastic bands.

That photo is going in my library... THANKS!

I thought it was single cap rivets on the canon armor! I used to supply the double caps, but was informed in no uncertain terms that they were in fact singles, which is why I changed. I am SOOO confused! (But then again, I pretty much terminally bewildered), lol.

Up until now, the split rivets have been acceptable at level 3. The single cap rivets are screen accurate, but to be honest you really can't tell the difference unless you look inside, (and who does that)? I think the main reason the split rivets are acceptable is that in order to use the single caps you have to buy a whole bag, and what are you gonna' do with 48 extras? lol This is why I sell them in required quantities at my cost for those who want to go canon and save a few bucks. IMHO the split rivets should be acceptable at all levels. I mean, we allow nylon strapping instead of brackets, so why make it more difficult for someone to reach Centurion?

You should be fine with those, Thor. Nice job on the repairs!!

Have you trimed all the return edge from both ends?

Great to hear that you are aiming for Centurion, Jameson! Unfortunately, the forearm cover strips cannot be wider than 15mm. Are you having trouble getting your hand through the wrist opening?

For 501st approval at all levels, the pauldron must be orange, Joshua. If you decide to use another color after approval, that is completely your decision of course. The reason for using one color is simple continuity...

I am including something in your package, Ben. I will PM you this afternoon to explain how to use it.

I would go with ABS as well, Lewis. It is fairly easy to cut/trim with the right tools, and keeps it's shine really well.

There seems to be some speculation on whether or not AM is still producing kits. I know they were down for a while, but I also know that several people ordered from them after that. I emailed them recently asking whether or not they were in fact still in business, but have had no response. Has anyone had contact with them in the last 90 days? If so, what was the outcome? Thanks in advance for any and all information.

Just remember, they don't have to look pretty... (no-one sees them and it will not affect approval at any level. I would go at least 20-25 mm wide on the inside strips for the calves.

Welcome, Liam! If you are looking to join the 501st as a Clone Trooper, I would check out their site as well: https://www.501stclonetroopers.com/. There are suppliers of armor specific to that Detachment, and they could probably steer you in the right direction.

You can go to either the sewing area of Walmart or Joanne fabrics, Shawn. The item you need to look for is "chair foam". It's basically 2 inches thick by 18 inches (or so) square, and is used as a replacement for chair cushions. Use either a VERY sharp razor knife to cut it or better yet an electric carving knife if you have one.

I have never worked with leather, Ben, but you can probably do some research online to find out about how much materials would cost. As of now, the least expensive approvable HWT pouches you can find are on ebay (link below) but they are sold in sets, so you would have to order 2 (sets) to get the three required for HWT. (I was approved when canvas was still allowed, but upgraded when the CRL was changed). If you could make a set of 3 for less than $80.00 or so (including shipping) you could probably sell quite a few here and on the MEPD. You might also consider making them out of "pleather", since they can be made out of a "leather-like material". eBAY

Great job on the fixes! You will need a pic showing the inside connection and attachment method like this:

I did once as a favor to a friend, but that was it. Having a full time handler (don't count on the parent(s) to be there beside you full time) is a must. The first 10-15 minutes the kids are super excited and everyone wants a photo and to interact with you. Once they have their pics the excitement wears off (very) quickly, and you run the chance of becoming a white plastic pinata for lightsaber wielding younglings, or you end up standing there like a decoration. I would advise having fun while you are there, but when you feel things are getting dull have your handler (or the parent) announce that Darth Vader needs you back at your post. If it is a SW themed party, you could also ask the parents if they have any SW themed swag (party favors) that you could hand out.

Try this, Phil: