justjoseph63

GREAT job on that ATA bucket, Jeff, and awesome to hear that you are aiming for HWT! One thing I would suggest is to open up (define) the teeth a little more, (below are some screen used examples, photo 1). I have found that the best way to achieve this is to use "needle files". You can pick up a set at Lowe's for about 4 bucks, and they are well worth the investment: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-6-Piece-Needle-File-Set/4777067 SUPER nice job on the ear gaps and eye openings! When you paint the hovi-mic tips, try not to paint the inside, and you can scuff up the outside of the rim so that white is showing as seen in the second photo, (also from a screen used bucket). Photo 1 Photo 2 Also, notice that the tops of the ridges on the vocoder are pretty defined. This can be easily achieved by picking up a "filbert" (flat with a rounded end) paint brush at Michael's or any art supply store.

Incredible attention to detail there, Kenny. A weapon anyone would be proud to troop with!

I would (pardon the pun) stick with the clear type, Mark. If it does happen to "bleed" out from under a cover strip after drying for instance, there is an easy way to remedy that. Simply take a razor knife, and carefully cut along the edge of the cover strip, and then use your thumb to remove the excess dried glue. NOTE: In order to keep from slicing your thumb, be sure to sand the edges of the cover strip before attaching it with a fine grit sandpaper. I also suggest sanding the underside of the cover strip (and then cleaning it) before applying glue. This will help with adhesion.

Been there, done that, brother, (my Hero armor is Anovos). One thing I would recommend when BBB (big brown box) day arrives is to start your own build thread here, and there are a few reasons behind that... 1. You can post all of your questions in one place. Believe me, you will get a better response to them if you do this. 2. You can post photos** of your build as you progress, as well as pics of any problems that may arise. A picture really is worth a thousand words, and here at the FISD we LOVE photos! 3. Your build thread can potentially help future Troopers that may have the same issues/questions. ** If you don't have one yet, I highly suggest getting an imgur (imgur.com) account to post pics with. It's free, easy to use, and you can edit them as needed. Here is a tutorial that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42381-howto-post-images-in-threads-using-imgur-easy/

Absolutely. Much easier to do during the build rather than after. The areas that I highlighted do not need major reinforcing, just a piece about half an inch wide and follow the curve. While you can certainly attach the reinforcing strips with ABS paste, I used E-6000 and have had no problems. I would set them back from the edge about 1/8 of an inch so they don't show, though. As for the interior cover strips, also easier to do during the build, and bear in mind that the interior ones are just for added strength. They are not overly necessary on most joins, but like I mentioned, the front of the calves get stretched a lot from opening and closing them when putting your armor on. I suggest making the interior strips for those first, and cut them about 1 1/2 inches wide. They don't have to be pretty, as no one sees them anyway, and will not affect any approval level.

Some spot-on info. from Jim there, Eric. There should be plenty enough ABS scrap to make all the reinforced areas, and I would also highly suggest making inside cover strips in the calves. Those get opened and closed a lot, and the wear and tear can eventually lead to the E-6000 failing on the front ones. Be aware that although Anovos is advertising replacement parts, they are out of stock on many if not all of them for the foreseeable future.

Here are 2 excellent threads that may help you out, Andrew: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41502-crickets-wtf-hero-build-even-more-tk-for-the-vertically-challenged/?tab=comments#comment-556128 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/?tab=comments#comment-574180

You can't go wrong following Tony's (ukswrath) build, Eric, especially if your are (hopefully) aiming for Centurion. I would highly recommend reinforcing the inside of some of the areas that are prone to cracking/splitting on the Anovos armor, especially in the areas seen in red below: A word of advice on strapping systems: The "strapping" kit that is included with the Anovos armor consists of Velcro. Using this to build the kit will work, but is really not all that practical for trooping in the long run. Pieces can fall off, and the Velcro will eventually wear out from repeated use. If you don't feel up to going with the "classic" (bracket) system that Tony used, I suggest using the nylon strapping method that most of us use. It costs a little more and takes more time to construct, but it is well worth it. I have a tutorial here that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/ If you haven't done so yet, you should sign up at the Florida Garrison boards, https://fl501st.com/. You are located in the Everglades Squad area, and there may be someone in that area that can help you out with your build on a local level, but always feel free to ask any questions here that you may have. Also, I recommend getting all of the items you will need for your build together before your kit arrives. It will make life easier not having to scramble around at the last minute, believe me. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/

Great find on those, Jeff! I am adding that seller to my magnet tutorial page: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/

I used a combination of coarse thread screws and epoxy to mount everything from the inside. I used a different (thicker) oil pan,(photo 1) and cut out the back for access, and afterward I epoxied black craft foam (from Michaels) over the hole, (photo 2). This prevents the oil pan from scratching your back plate. Note that on the left shoulder strap that I attached a 2 snap mount to hold my shoulder ammo pack (see third photo for detail).

Hang in there, Stefanie! When filling those holes in with the ABS paste, put some tape on the backside beforehand. Also, try not to overfill the hole too much. this will reduce the amount of sanding you have to do afterward.

Looking sharp, Craig! You can trim that back as seen below in red. I would (carefully) use a Dremel tool with the sanding drum attachment, but take off a bit at a time until you are comfortable with the shape. You should also consider changing out the bottom ear screws (in blue) to the flat head style used in the top part, especially if you are aiming for the higher levels. If you are missing these, let me know via PM and I will mail you a few no charge.

I sell the single cap rivets as well as the split rivets. If you need both sets (10 split and 4 single cap) the total cost with shipping (in the U.S.) would be $5.00.

Actually, it is I that should thank YOU, Dave! Your post prompted me to finally start a thread on magnets. We all use them, and the more we are informed we are the better. I swiped my avatar pic as well, lol. Seemed appropriate as I tend to over-indulge in (diet) Mountain Dew.

Always great to see a new build, Craig! Just take your time, ask as many questions as you need and keep the photos coming. One suggestion is to ditch the canvas belt that comes with the Anovos kit (they are really flimsy) and upgrade to something a lot thicker that is reinforced. I recommend getting one of Rob's (Tkittell), which are custom made to order for your size and super heavy duty: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ If you are aiming for higher screen accuracy, you should consider the EI and Centurion levels, which are much easier to do during your build rather than after. Here is a bit more info. on those: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/ I have a few quick tutorials located under my signature below that may help as well.

One step closer, Jared! As for your question about the differences between basic, (EI) and Centurion, they can be found in the CRL (Costume Reference Library) on the 501st site: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt The basic requirements are in black, the ones for EI (Expert Infantry) are in blue, and the ones for Centurion are in red. Great to hear that you are headed for levels 2 and 3, and here is link that may help answer some of your questions: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

Hi Ignacio! Unfortunately, your links are not working. You will need to post the images on a site like imgur (imgur.com) so they can be seen here. Here is a link to a tutorial on that, and I look forward to seeing them! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42381-howto-post-images-in-threads-using-imgur-easy/

To clarify what I meant in the post to Ben about "including something in the package", what it was (as he mentioned) was black ladies' eyeshadow. I was in a dollar store, saw it and thought.. "that could work". I bought that, and a "blush" brush there to apply it with, and it worked out great. It is not water soluble, so it stays on really well. I've only had to touch it up a few times, even after 30or so troops. To remove it, you can use any common household degreaser like 409. (Or just go HWT full time, ). The one thing I would warn about is that is can rub off to an extent. I wrap my bucket in a small trashbag to prevent it from getting on the fleece liner of my helmet bag. One suggestion, though.. less is more when it comes to weathering HWT armor. You really don't need to go overboard.

If you mean the cloth belt, Troy, that really depends on your GML. The canvas belt that is supplied with the Anovos kit is really flimsy, and may pass basic approval but certainly not anything higher. It's strange that their holster is very well built, but they cheaped out on the canvas. I highly suggest replacing it with a heavy-duty type, such as one from Rob (TKittell) located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ The quality is top-notch, as is the customer service. Plus, he custom makes them to fit you perfectly. If you are referring to the anovos ABS plastic belt, it is indeed approvable at all levels when constructed properly.

Really nice job on that armor, Justin! See you at Centurion soon, brother.

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill.

Excellent idea, Christine! Thanks for sharing that!

Good call on the Make-A-Wish scenario, Rebecca. In cases like that I would be more than willing to be human pinata.

So close! Fairly straightforward fixes there, Jessie. If you have any questions on how to get them where they need to be, just let us know. As Tony suggested, switching to the snap system would be a great idea. I have a thread here that can help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/

This is a mini tutorial about the use of Neodymium ("rare earth") magnets. As you may have read here in different build threads, these little devils are invaluable when constructing a set of TK armor. BUT.. there are a few things to consider before purchasing and then using them... For purposes of this tutorial, I will be referring to magnets that are 7/8 inches (23mm) in diameter and 1/8 inch (4mm) thick, (as seen below) with a strength of N40. First, know that these things are STRONG! (Imagine a regular magnet the same size, but 10 times more powerful). This is a good thing for our purposes, but you should know a few quick facts first: 1. I mentioned that these are strong already, but know that the strength is such that they can (and will) jump up to 8 inches to reconnect with each other or another metal object. If your finger is between the magnets and this happens, it can cause injury, from bruising to serious cuts. They also can (and will) shatter if allowed to connect from a distance, and flying chips can cause eye injuries. In a word, be careful. I highly suggest wearing eye protection. That is up to you, but please read this post from Glen located below. 2. Due to the strong magnetic field, those with pacemakers or the like should take extra caution when handling these. 3. Whatever you do, keep these away from children. Now that I've scared you a bit, on with the show! When considering what size to buy for your build, I cannot recommend the 7/8 x 1/8 size enough. The reason being is that you will only need one on each side of the connection you are gluing, and they have a large surface area. Anything smaller (or thinner) and you run the risk of having to "double up" (stack) them to get the proper adhesion, and the thinner ones shatter more easily. When you receive them, they will have little plastic separators between each one. To get them apart, the easiest (and safest) way is to slide them. As you separate them, again, be sure to keep them as far apart as possible to prevent shattering or injury. (Save the plastic inserts). After separating them, I strongly recommend doing one of 2 things... 1. Wrapping each one in masking or painter's tape, (this will prevent them from scratching your armor) or 2. Making mini "sachets" for each one. The tape method is quick and easy, but the sachets are really handy if you have the time. To make them: Cut 4" (10cm) squares from a piece of fairly thick cloth, (not t-shirt type material) for as many magnets as you have. Place one magnet in each one**, and secure it with a zip-tie. (I used a rubber band for the photo, which will not work in real life). This gives you a "handle". NOTES: **Be SURE that you do half facing one direction out and half facing the other (north/south poles). Otherwise they won't adhere. Using a sachet will not prevent them from shattering. Cricket added a great example photo and tips in a post below. After you have applied the E-6000** to the seam you are gluing, place one magnet on the top of the cover strip, and carefully add one to the opposite side (inside). To keep the cover strip tight to the join along the entire length, I suggest placing magnets every 3-4 inches apart. If you see any areas where the cover strips are not flush with the armor, add more magnets. For the ends, you can use clamps as seen above. Be sure they have rubber or plastic on the ends, though. After the E-6000 has cured (usually 12-24 hours) it's time to remove the magnets! IMPORTANT! I have found the best way to remove them is this: First, remove the clamps. Then, using one hand, grasp the magnet on the top closest to the end. Using the other hand, SLIDE the one on the inside out, keeping them well apart. Stack them using the plastic separators they came with. Now, it's time to look at that perfect seam and think "Hey, I'm one step closer to approval"! NOTES: ** As the vast majority of TKs will tell you, E-6000 is really the best adhesive out there for armor. Unless you are an experienced builder, if you choose to use CA (super) glue, know that if it drips, you run the risk of it running onto your armor or causing the magnets/sachets to adhere to your seam. You have been warned. 1. There is no such thing as having "too many magnets". I know they are not cheap, but the more you have the more pieces you can glue at one time. I recommend having no less than 12. 2. There are many sources to purchase this size magnet, and the prices can run up to $3.00 each. But, you can find them on eBay most of the time for a lot less. This seller for instance offers them for $9.99 for six, which includes postage. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pcs-Super-Strong-Neodymium-Rare-earth-Magnet-Disc-for-sale-7-8-dia-x-1-8-thick/281060567507?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Another good source is here: https://totalelement.com/products/3-4-x-1-8-inch-neodymium-rare-earth-disc-magnets-n52-8-pack Tim (PICTreed) found a great site that is a fantastic magnet source here: https://appliedmagnets.com/neodymium-disc-magnets-1-in-x-1-8-in-w-countersunk-hole-p-601.html 3. When you have completed your build, please consider "paying it forward" to someone in your Garrison/Squad who is starting their build by selling them your magnets at a reduced price. "Troopers helping Troopers"!