justjoseph63

Nylon is the most widely used method of strapping, but some areas will require elastic. I have a thread here that will help with the various kinds needed: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ Here is a diagram that may help as well:

Great minds, as they say.. lol.

Have you signed up at the Great Lakes Garrison site? http://www.greatlakesgarrison.com/ I would definitely try there first and see if anyone lives in the Royal Oak/Warren (maybe even Sterling hts.) area that can help. You should also get in touch with Kyle, (Zarlon) https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/profile/20903-zarlon/ who is the Imperial Attache for the GLG. He lives in SE MI. and may be able to steer you in the right direction. (Tell him Joseph sent you). Hang in there, and don't give up!

I have seen blasters that look so real it's almost unbelievable, as well as real decommissioned Sterlings made into E-11s, both used at events where literally dozens of police and law enforcement were present. All we got from them were smiles and requests for photos. When you are dressed head to toe in shiny white armor along with others from the SW universe, the chances of someone thinking it is actually real weapon are miniscule. They realize that we are characters, much as the TKs that work at Disney who brandish replica weapons and therefore pose no danger. Something to think about is how you actually hold and pose with your weapon. I always HIGHLY discourage anyone from ever pointing their weapon at anyone for any reason, especially children. This is just in really bad taste. I also never let anyone hold any of my weapons. When you hand it over to someone not in a costume you never know what they may do with it, i. e. pointing it at someone not aware of what is happening who could very well "freak out", especially in this day and age. Then you have a bigger problem on your hands, not only with your "host" but with your Garrison and the 501st. To say this would be "bad press" for us is an understatement. Some troops (like children's hospitals) understandably forbid weapons of any sort, as some kids may not be familiar with us or our mission. A Stormtrooper without a weapon, you say? That's crazy! But, the first time you get an ear to ear smile and a high five from one of those kids will make you forget you ever carried one.

Crap.. I'm sorry, Steve.. I meant to do a "Quote" but must have hit Edit. My apologies, brother, please re-post.

Can't believe I missed that! (I may be a little biased, though, lol). If you are indeed going for HWT, just PM me if you have any questions.

Looking good so far, Bradley! Hopefully you have checked out Tony's legendary Anovos build thread (link below if you need it). He used the "classic" (bracket) system for strapping, but you can also use the nylon/elastic method and still reach Centurion. Keep up the great work, and be sure to ask questions if you have them! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/

No apologies necessary, Dan.. I'm glad this came up again! Paul has given it the official "thumbs up", so we can move forward. I will post this subject in the Staff section and see how he wants to proceed and keep this thread updated with the results.

This exact subject was brought up back in June by Vern in the Attache HQ section. There were varying opinions, including the fact that due to importation restrictions some Troopers in certain countries would not have access to particular parts, either replica or real. There was also the matter of the additional cost being prohibitive. We all realize that it costs more to reach EI and Centurion, but this is not a necessary step to get out and (pardon the pun) have a blast trooping. Many of us "detail freaks" go the extra mile for authenticity when we build a prop or set of armor, and those who do should be proud of those accomplishments. I am definitely in favor of this program, but it would require a small group of E-11 "experts" to be appointed, set the standards and approve the applications. (FWIW I would nominate Tino (T-Jay). Tim (Dark CMF) had some great thoughts on this subject: "I think that depriving a lot of members who may want to be a part of this program from the opportunity to do so, simply to avoid hurting a few feelings is a bit extreme in many regards. There are a lot of really, really skilled blaster builders within our ranks, why not let them shine the same way that our skilled armor builders do? If we really do want to put the best product on the streets as widely as we can, we need to provide the right types and amount of incentive and motivation for people to do so. This is the type of program (because we all know that if there is a program within any part of the Legion, that there will eventually be SWAG produced for it) that can help to do just that".

Tolle Idee, Christian! Denken Sie daran, wenn Sie mit E-6000 etwas an Nomex kleben, dass Sie ein Stück Wachspapier in den Handschuh legen. Sonst kleben Sie es zu.

Unfortunately, Stuart, most photos were posted on here using Photobucket. It seems they got sort of greedy and held everyone's accounts "hostage" unless they paid for them, sad to say. Many of us have changed to imgur (https://imgur.com/). It is REALLY easy to use (even for someone as tech challenged as myself) and costs nothing.

Some photos would be great, Sean. If there are any issues you have a lot of folks here that can help. Not only that, but those issues can help out others who may be in the same situation. Best of luck on your 501st submission!

Tom pretty much covered the Anovos question, Arif. Although their armor is completely 501st approvable when built correctly, their customer service leaves a LOT to be desired. Your best bet is to check out the "vetted" sellers on this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ They are tried and true armorers, and can help you out.

Daniel Branton TK42911 EIB A4 Andrew http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/42911-eib.png

Trooperbay's hand guards are made from latex, and are best attached with E-6000. When gluing to Nomex gloves, don't forget to place a piece of wax paper inside, otherwise the glue will seep through and seal them closed. It also helps to add weight on them while curing for a better bond.

You can pick them up on eBay for as little as $14.00, (example link below). I would go for the ones that have longer wrists, that way they don't slide out from under your forearm piece and expose any skin. Nomex gloves

Great to hear that you are aiming for level 3! It's not really that much more work to reach EI and Centurion, just more attention to detail. The old saying "measure twice, cut once" applies, and when in doubt, ask questions. It would also really help to go over some of the approved Centurion threads in the link below, especially the ones with (RS) in the title. Lots of tips and ideas there. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/

My pleasure, sir, and best of luck on your build! Glad to see that you are going the "do it yourself" route, and hopefully you will taking your RS kit to EI and then on to Centurion. Reaching these levels is easier to do during your build rather than after, and if we can be of any help in your white armor journey just ask! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

Congrats on joining the tanks of the HWT's Ryan! If you want to give your armor a "battle worn" look, I have something that I will mail you (no charge) that you can use. It is pretty easily removed for when you want to go shiny TK when you need to. PM me for more info. if interested.

Welcome to the ranks, brother, and I expect to see that Centurion badge under your name soon. (Nice blaster photos, but where are the Gummi bears)?

True, but "Should be black" implies that there may be an alternative. I would vote for "Shall (or Must) be black", or white in the case of ear screws. I think the better we define this the easier for those who may have questions about it.

Agreed. Everyone has access to paint, but not anodized screws. It may be going overboard, but including a small detailed photo or diagram of the screw heads may help. Not everyone may be familiar with what a "Pan head" or "V shaped" screw head actually looks like, or the term "slotted".

Glad to see that this has been clarified for those who may have questions or concerns....

To connect the front to the back/top (inside).

Looks like you are in good shape with your supplies, Greg! You mentioned pop rivets, which I assume are for your bucket. Did AP send you the correct rivets (bifurcated "split") for your ab/kidney connection? These will need to be 5/16th (8mm) head diameter. In case I miss it, please send me a PM when you get to the point of fitting your thighs and forearms. (I have a few pointers for you). Keep up the great work, and don't be shy about asking questions!