Sly11

Bekka22, you are similar in size and weight to me. I went with AP, Mark was a pleasure to deal with, answered all my questions and gave great advice. The AM kits are quite large in size, and do require parts to be replaced to hit the centurion level . Took my AP to Centurion no problems at all. I will find my centurion application and post the link for you, also have a basic build thread I can post the link for that to if you like. I'm sure I have said a quick hello to you on the Redback forum, I have the paint info you are looking for, and more than happy to help. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congrats and welcome to the ranks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm with Steve on this one . Sskunky, also known as CFO or cast from original, is the only way to go for ROTJ armor. Please don't be tempted by a Rubies supremely inaccurate costume. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

All good work so far, keep it up.[emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great costume. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

G'day Ryan, welcome aboard. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Agree with Starfox, chest piece can sit lower, also the neck seal will alter how it sits. We have a similar problem with a tall trooper in our garrison, we have left as much length in the shoulder bridges as possible and are in the process of splitting the cod and adding a shim otherwise it looked like your earlier photo with a gap between the chest. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mike has always been a good communicator , just give it a little time life gets in the way. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I love it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you tried to locate the top bell strap further forward where it attaches to the bridge ? This will bring them a little forward. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome to the ranks Trooper. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations Trooper, welcome to the ranks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Glad that you are moving towards the mods for Centurion Tim, as Art says, you won't have any problems achieving that milestone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking good Johny, trigger guard and trigger clearance look fine it sit pretty much how mine does and gives a good amount of trigger movement. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Now that is an awesome photo. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Ryan, don't worry about the offset yet as when you do the enclosure on the back it will line up better. Align the top and mark a trim line for the excess at the bottom of the longer part. Then draw a cut line following the shape of the bottom and trim it off. First I would be trimming the front of the halves to suit a 20 mm cover strip so from the ridge line leave 10 mm either side and cut off the excess.. It looks like you have a lot of excess to play with there.Then retape together and see what you need to leave or remove from the back if any. Always tape and try on with your compression tights and your boots on or you might take off too much.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations yet again Glen. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Ryan and Happy New Year mate. Wow, your armour is coming along great. To answer your AP hand plate question, I used Industrial Velcro on my Nomex gloves. White in the back of the hand plates (adhesive type, hence industrial, it is hard as hell to peel off) use the rough side, and black soft loop side on the gloves themselves. I sewed these on by hand. I bough 50mm wide and trimmed to suit. This way I can take the plates off to wash the gloves. Rotating shins. Here again I used industrial Velcro towards the bottom. Soft side on the inside front of the shin, and the other half on the front of the boot. This stops the shins from riding up and dramatically reduced the twisting. Lens material. I replaced mine with a thicker and darker material purchased from Trooperbay, kids can see your eyes through the AP supplied material. To curve the shoulder bridges, I used boiling water, and just simply tied a piece of string around the length of each bridge part, the shorter or tighter you tie the string the more the bridge curves, drop it in a bucket of boiling water for 5 minutes, take it out undo and check the curve, adjust as necessary, or just use a heat gun with great caution. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations Glen on another awesome costume, another EIB and no doubt in the next day or so another Centurion. You are a credit to our hobby and to your garrison . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just saw a dude wearing a TK helmet painted in the Seahawks colours cheering in the crowd while watching the game. Is he one of ours? The bucket looked very cool.

Looks great, was your butt strap not done up in the third last image? If it was, I would consider shortening it up to curve that bit under a little more., or even applying some heat the that area and creating more of a curve . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Beautiful build Glen, well done. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Fantastic job so far Hans, hopefully I will be in a position to get one of these by mid year. Keep up the good work. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I don't know how you managed to leave your kit in the box for a year. I certainly don't have your level of patience, it would have driven me insane. Looking forward to seeing your build thread. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk