Sly11

Hi Chris, I agree with Tim, looks pretty schmick, just that shoulder bell turning. If you reposition it and find it keeps turning, you could move the top strap from the bell to the shoulder bridge forward a little this may help to reduce it. Good luck, but should be fine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good on you brother, you are going to love the journey you're about to embark on, I promise . As I mentioned before, we are here to help, and remember this, measure twice, cut once. I am truly excited for you. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Greetings and welcome to the FISD Disciple, I can't really add any more than the others have already done so above,. Everything you have chosen is awesome, but I will reiterate the words of both Gazmosis and DarkCMF. Commissioned is nice, and an added cost of coarse, but please do consider the path we have mostly taken. The true path to the Empire, and the overwhelming feeling of accomplishment and pride you will feel, when on a troop someone asks you about your awesomeness, and you can answer with " I assembled it myself". It might seem daunting, and some may even make it seem even more so than it is, but trust in us. We are here to help every step of the way, as is your local garrison . WE LOVE TO HELP, and we love progress photos of cadets work. With your new skill set, In turn you will want to help others, and the circle is complete. You will transform from disciple to fully approved Badass, all at your own hand. Again welcome, research, and keep asking questions. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Fantastic review, thanks Tim, well done. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Can't wait to see this build in its entirety. You must do a YouTube vid so we can see and hear it in action when complete. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can attest to the use of mineral turpentine. I had bad paint bleed on the frown as I taped the surrounding area, the toothpick and turps worked perfectly and was easy enough, it just took a little time as I had quite a few bleeds. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Here is the Centurion application I mentioned http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28708-tk-11469-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-ap140/ Hope this helps a little. Build thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28366-slys-ap-anh-stunt-tk-build/ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bekka22, you are similar in size and weight to me. I went with AP, Mark was a pleasure to deal with, answered all my questions and gave great advice. The AM kits are quite large in size, and do require parts to be replaced to hit the centurion level . Took my AP to Centurion no problems at all. I will find my centurion application and post the link for you, also have a basic build thread I can post the link for that to if you like. I'm sure I have said a quick hello to you on the Redback forum, I have the paint info you are looking for, and more than happy to help. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congrats and welcome to the ranks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm with Steve on this one . Sskunky, also known as CFO or cast from original, is the only way to go for ROTJ armor. Please don't be tempted by a Rubies supremely inaccurate costume. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

All good work so far, keep it up.[emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great costume. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

G'day Ryan, welcome aboard. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Agree with Starfox, chest piece can sit lower, also the neck seal will alter how it sits. We have a similar problem with a tall trooper in our garrison, we have left as much length in the shoulder bridges as possible and are in the process of splitting the cod and adding a shim otherwise it looked like your earlier photo with a gap between the chest. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Mike has always been a good communicator , just give it a little time life gets in the way. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I love it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you tried to locate the top bell strap further forward where it attaches to the bridge ? This will bring them a little forward. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome to the ranks Trooper. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations Trooper, welcome to the ranks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Glad that you are moving towards the mods for Centurion Tim, as Art says, you won't have any problems achieving that milestone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking good Johny, trigger guard and trigger clearance look fine it sit pretty much how mine does and gives a good amount of trigger movement. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Ryan, don't worry about the offset yet as when you do the enclosure on the back it will line up better. Align the top and mark a trim line for the excess at the bottom of the longer part. Then draw a cut line following the shape of the bottom and trim it off. First I would be trimming the front of the halves to suit a 20 mm cover strip so from the ridge line leave 10 mm either side and cut off the excess.. It looks like you have a lot of excess to play with there.Then retape together and see what you need to leave or remove from the back if any. Always tape and try on with your compression tights and your boots on or you might take off too much.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations yet again Glen. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Ryan and Happy New Year mate. Wow, your armour is coming along great. To answer your AP hand plate question, I used Industrial Velcro on my Nomex gloves. White in the back of the hand plates (adhesive type, hence industrial, it is hard as hell to peel off) use the rough side, and black soft loop side on the gloves themselves. I sewed these on by hand. I bough 50mm wide and trimmed to suit. This way I can take the plates off to wash the gloves. Rotating shins. Here again I used industrial Velcro towards the bottom. Soft side on the inside front of the shin, and the other half on the front of the boot. This stops the shins from riding up and dramatically reduced the twisting. Lens material. I replaced mine with a thicker and darker material purchased from Trooperbay, kids can see your eyes through the AP supplied material. To curve the shoulder bridges, I used boiling water, and just simply tied a piece of string around the length of each bridge part, the shorter or tighter you tie the string the more the bridge curves, drop it in a bucket of boiling water for 5 minutes, take it out undo and check the curve, adjust as necessary, or just use a heat gun with great caution. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk