I'm Batman

First tip. You don't need the snap pliers for the blaster... Lol!! Sorry, congrats on your decision. Plenty of good threads out there. Check out my hasbro conversion .http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26356-basic-hasbro-build-with-doopey-conversion/ . Just a basic one, but effective. Then you can go as far as gmrhodes did: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20496-hasbro-e-11-conversion/ Remember, measure twice, cut once and don't hesitate to ask before measuring or cutting.

Thanks Maxim. Was thinking of some extra 'pin' type reinforcing along with 2 part epoxy. However my leg is only 1.1mm thick, so not much for the pin to grab hold of. My second problem, is that I think Lou has made the inner bolt smaller to accommodate most people using thick wall PVC pipe, so I'll need to pack that out somehow so it doesn't wobble around in the pipe...

Have you had any progress Maxim? More specifically the fixing of resin parts onto the metal? I'm about to tackle this same project and am not sure whether to start drilling my IKEA leg or find a plastic pipe.

What sort of 'fails'? As most of us will attest to, there are no fails, just set backs, or a little bit of extra work here and there. I tell you, I've had my fair share...

That would be fine, because you're not going to see the join between the 2 blues. As long as the joins between the blue/black is seamless. As Mathias said, you should cut the ridges off so that seam is flush. (Hmm, pic didn't quote. Oh well...)

Awesome work Tino. Add this modification to my spreadsheet of 'Things to Do'. Aaron - If you looked at the sight/dovetail section from end on, if you could see it without the upper bended section on the receiver - would the dovetail section be visible at all? From your side on pic, only the top rectangular block sits above the line of the receiver, but does the dovetail protrude out left/right. Hope I could get that question down with a little bit of sense...

Definately agree. That's exactly what I said in my earlier post (#11), about the "good pick up going forward to Centurion". This post you've quoted was clarifying Evan's confusion about different sections referring to the same requirement, which they weren't.

Level 2 is talking about the number of bumps. Level 3 is talking about the number of painted bumps.

There's a guy selling some on the On-Going sales thread here.

We're only at level 2, but good pick up looking forward to Centurion.

Fantastic looking build Adam. Hopefully my MTK comes up half as good. Has that changed recently Mathias? CRL's currently suggest otherwise. For level two certification (if applicable): Ideally no shoulder bell straps across the biceps.If there is a shoulder bell strap, it shall not be visible across the biceps.

My MTK helmet came with the 'curve' in the mold lines. You can check my build thread to see. I'm pretty sure you could just estimate. Place the ear approximately where it needs to go. Mark the front and back, and cut somewhere in the middle. I think the idea of the curve is so the join stays hidden behind the ear. I'm guessing with a straight join that it will protrude front or rear somewhere along. If it doesn't protrude, I wouldn't worry about the curve cut at all.

Yeah, I raised it myself a few months ago and it does keep getting raised unfortunately. It would be nice if the powers to be could put a little "Mandatory for level 2 & 3" statement somewhere in the CRLs.

We probably don't need to go into it again. It's been discussed quite a few times. One thread below. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18412-blasters-optional/ Basically, they're optional for Basic approval, but mandatory for EIB or Centurion.

For level two certification (if applicable): Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the kidney plate.Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. The heads are rounded or domed.Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Rivets are painted white. Technically not for EIB either, but Steve will be the final judge for you. See what he says. You may as well wait before you go to the effort of moving them. Whats the old saying, "Measure twice, cut once"

That's just a link to his build thread. What is he actually offering for sale? The armor he bought and built? A new mold? A copy of someone else? Did he give you any information about the origins of the armor?

Coming along nicely Kyle. Your photos are very deceiving though. That looks way more than 10mm to me. How wide are those rivets too?

Link?

WOW! It's going to be a shame to paint them. Have you decided whether you'll be selling any?

Haha, no pressure eh...... Trip to Ikea next weekend - 300km up the road to Sydney to the closets store. We're buiding a new house, so have quite a list of furniuture to buy. Will pick up one of those table legs to consider using it as a steel pipe build.

One box. USA to Australia postal service looking after us! I know that name. Woo Hoo!! First of all - Tim, I probably won't keep this thread name going. First thing I thought of was how perfect the cardboard box was after travelling half way around the world! Second - It may take me a while to build, I still have an unfished TK spread out on the garage floor and a TS on it's way courtesy of Scootch and Gabe. Thirdly - which I'll ellaborate more on once I start building. This is no Doopy Doos! From my brief experience with a Doopy kit for a Hasbro blaster and watching everyone elses threads of late, the Doopys appear very well produced, not much clean up, etc. The DVH will definately take some modelling skills. I think a lot of the details may be better, it has few more features I think, BUT a lot more air bubbles, chips to fill and sand, removal of flashings and waste, etc. Will probably start a fresh build thread later down the track once I actually get to some building. Cheers!

Steaming ahead! No messing around here....

That's a great idea and looks really good. I probably would have sat there for days carving out little lines with a knife. In fact, no, I wouldn't have tried it at all

Oh, and welcome to the FISD,

Plenty of threads about undersuits over in the soft parts section http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/42-boots-soft-parts-and-other-accessories/ First link - stormtrooper undersuit is fine. I ordered one but it was too big, so I sold it again. Would have bought another but found another local option so I didn't have to pay for postage. Second link - isn't linking to a particular suit, so no idea what you're referring to.