I'm Batman

Nothing wrong with 5'7"

What has that got to do with anything? "It may be used to obscure the face of the wearer". And that is for basic approval only.

Yeah, straight on, no primer. The cleaner is 100% Isopropanol, and my boots are rubber, not leather or other materials, so not sure if that will make a difference. I haven't had them rubbing up against the shin armor yet, but have bent them back and forth and so far so good.

Thanks Karin, Lou. Yes, here's hoping....

Just thought I'd better check in after a little more progress. Finished the boots, Check them out ^^^ Pretty much have the torso done. Just waiting on a mate to trim the sides (ab/kidney) to size. Will post some more pics when that's done. In the mean time, boots and hand guards done, in the above thread, and did some sewing!! (and drew more blood)

Found some more time (damn life getting in the way) to make some more progress here. A few more coats on the boots, then sourced some flexible fabric paint for the elastic sides: One coat Two coats Three Touch up paint around the sole where I had sme overspray, and done! I also used the same flexible paint on the hand guards. So far, so good. Nice and flexible.

Congrats on the purchase and welcome from another another MTK'er. 1. I tried 2 brands of snaps without success (total fail!) before I bought Tandy ones. They seem great now. I've heard good and bad about Dritz but can't comment first hand. 2. I think the look will be compromised if you do adjustable straps, however, is 15lb really that much. Even if all of that 15lb is on your waist, I'm not sure that your armor would be that tight that you wouldn't fit. I would build it to your preferred size. 3. I just used whatever black spray I had lying around. Seems great. Didn't smell. I would definately recommend painting before building and applying other paint/decals. I didn't. I thought I masked it up real good. Turned out the spray crept through the gap around the ears and helmet joins. I had a LOT of cleaning up to do with fine sandpaper and polish afterwards. Good luck and post up heaps!

Plenty of discussions of the new east bay gear. Pity they changed the stitching. I almost went to dye a set I had, until I stumbled across a set in Kmart. Only AUD$20 here, so probably some stupid price like $10 if you can get it hen mover there.

I went through 2 suppliers of snaps (and about $60-) before going to Tandy snaps. These work great now. I just picked the cheaper silver ones, but what're ever colour or design you want - they're not seen.

Looks good Zach. Did you know your Hengstler fell off? Got any close up of how you did the scope conversion. Looks good from a distance!

You'll be done by about 5pm tomorrow I reckon. Looks like it's all done for you! And even though you're known for your photo taking, I can't believe you paused long enough to take a photo of the actual truck!! Lol!!

No Steve. No pew pew from Kyle! I have no idea though. I plug batteries in. That's my electronics expertise.

16 posts long and we dont have any photos yet. WTF!

Bout time. You got so excited, you didn't post it in the build threads section though

Nice work so far Craig. You're right about the quality of Doopy Doos. Plenty of fine DD E-11's out there. One tip a few use is to wrap sandpaper around the receiver, then sand the curved items like the sights, grip, etc. This will make sure the two curves match and minimise some of those gaps - like on your front sight at the moment.

Looking good Russell. Top quality build there! I think Steve covered in his build thread how you need trim the magazine down a bit to fit in the Doopy's, but you obviously worked it out well.

First tip. You don't need the snap pliers for the blaster... Lol!! Sorry, congrats on your decision. Plenty of good threads out there. Check out my hasbro conversion .http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26356-basic-hasbro-build-with-doopey-conversion/ . Just a basic one, but effective. Then you can go as far as gmrhodes did: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20496-hasbro-e-11-conversion/ Remember, measure twice, cut once and don't hesitate to ask before measuring or cutting.

Thanks Maxim. Was thinking of some extra 'pin' type reinforcing along with 2 part epoxy. However my leg is only 1.1mm thick, so not much for the pin to grab hold of. My second problem, is that I think Lou has made the inner bolt smaller to accommodate most people using thick wall PVC pipe, so I'll need to pack that out somehow so it doesn't wobble around in the pipe...

Have you had any progress Maxim? More specifically the fixing of resin parts onto the metal? I'm about to tackle this same project and am not sure whether to start drilling my IKEA leg or find a plastic pipe.

What sort of 'fails'? As most of us will attest to, there are no fails, just set backs, or a little bit of extra work here and there. I tell you, I've had my fair share...

That would be fine, because you're not going to see the join between the 2 blues. As long as the joins between the blue/black is seamless. As Mathias said, you should cut the ridges off so that seam is flush. (Hmm, pic didn't quote. Oh well...)

Awesome work Tino. Add this modification to my spreadsheet of 'Things to Do'. Aaron - If you looked at the sight/dovetail section from end on, if you could see it without the upper bended section on the receiver - would the dovetail section be visible at all? From your side on pic, only the top rectangular block sits above the line of the receiver, but does the dovetail protrude out left/right. Hope I could get that question down with a little bit of sense...

Definately agree. That's exactly what I said in my earlier post (#11), about the "good pick up going forward to Centurion". This post you've quoted was clarifying Evan's confusion about different sections referring to the same requirement, which they weren't.

Level 2 is talking about the number of bumps. Level 3 is talking about the number of painted bumps.

There's a guy selling some on the On-Going sales thread here.