I'm Batman

Thanks Andrew. Rediculous last week! Lucky I have some snowy armor coming too Cheers Steve. Getting there....

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14283-how-to-make-thermal-detonator-belt-clips/?hl=%2Bthermal+%2Bdetonator All of about $2.00 for the srtrip of aluminium. Cheap enough?

The slow and steady pace continues...... Right hand snap installed, and hole for the belt snap Other side Using the visible snap, I also added another snap to do the clamshell closure. I considered velcro, but had heard that it may make that velcro tearing sound as you move around, so continued with the snap idea. And webbing with double snap will look like this. Has since been E6000'd and clamped for overnight curing. And the belt in progress It was miles too big. Rather than cut and sew, I simply folded it over twice and glued it together. These folds sit perfectly under the ammo sections of the ammo belt. And I have a belt and holster. I'll wait to put the rivet covers on until the very end, just in case....

I had the exact same thoughts, Aaron, when I put together my shopping list. However, the replica strapping info http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26477-what-we-know-about-strapping-snaps-rivets-etc/page-1 seems to suggest it was just regular elastic. It would be interesting to hear from long term troopers to see how theirs are holding up. Nothing worse than it giving way whilst on a troop, but at least it's only a small piece of elastic and a couple of snaps to replace when it does go.

I held the back and torso together with tape, going across where the shoulder straps will be. Released, re-taped, released, re-taped until I was happy where they were sitting (without being held by hand), then measured the gap between the 2 pieces of armor. That measurement plus the distance to the centre of the pre-installed snap on the armor and presto. Haven't seen mayny builds where thay have described what they've done, so not sure if there is an easier way.

Looks good! Don't forget to paint the screws white and most people paint one rank bar on the ears.

Thanks for sharing. Hope it works out as planned!

Appreciate the comments Matt. Glad I could help. And yes, a basic hasbro conversion is fine for basic approval. You can get more accurate with drilling extra holes and more T-tracks but I didn't go that way. Anyway, a hasbro will never be ACCURATE. Good luck on your upcoming build.

Coming along nicely Tim. I should have used the reinforcing ABS on the side rivets too. Oh well.... Can you elaborate on the wire bracket discussions you had with Paul and Steve. I understand you want screen accuracy, but it's not screen accurate to have them coming through the face, is it? Do you think it will detract from the look of the armor having those visible heads, or maybe once painted it won't be that visible? What implications for EIB/Centurion do you speak of above?

Check out this thread for some good detail on strapping and elastics. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26477-what-we-know-about-strapping-snaps-rivets-etc/#entry334341 Yes! Follow Toybiz's lead if you can. I didn't think about when I did mine. Wish I did!

I used the 1mm thick stuff from Bunnings Andrew. Once it's bent into shape the longest bit is only 50-70mm long, so it's quite sturdy. There's a bit of give in it, but I doubt it will move out of shape.

Awesome work Takashi. Congrats!

I haven't done the math. I'm sure it will end up way more expensive in the long run, but you could always email/pm the manufacturers and see what the say. AP offer parts from time to time. See recent thread below http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25759-ap-trooper-armor-authentic-replacement-parts/

Shoot "MTK" a pm. MTK the trooper formerly known as TK-4510. He may still have it if he created it.

Looking good Hans! I like the naturally weathered look. Seen some good battle action! Exactly how many shiny troopers were there in ANH? You might get pulled up on the wires on the DLT. Just like a E-11 with no charging handle. It may not be in the CRL's but it's an obvious part of the weapon. See what Steve chimes in with. Not sure about the screws - As Jason said, it is definitely more screen accurate, but the requirement was removed a short time ago for some reason. Well done and good luck!

I bent my shins using the boiling water method with GREAT success. Would be easier to remove from the armor though, as you said.

A third option would be to get that scrap piece, as Steve said, and dip it in hot/boiling water. Then you can curve it gradually without directing heat onto a small concentrated spot, pull out, let cool.

Thanks Tim. Looks like yours is perfectly lined up already! My wife isn't quite so approving, so help is harder to come by in my house.

Handy work with that iron Tim. Might have to wrap a tea towell around my household iron to do a bit of work Didn't realise the RT comes with a split cod/ab.

This bunch of white plastic is starting to resemble some armor. First major test fit with the snaps and elastic holding everything together. Tape on the sides there to confirm where I cut the sides were good. Butts hanging down a bit. Just not snapped to the cod at the moment. And drilled my rivet holes on the side - 10mm from the edge, evenly spaced

Looking great there Takashi! - Edit - missed someone had already mentioned this bit Well done!

Yes, I am Adam. Got all that sorted last night. Tell you what, they'll be a technique to get the crotch strap done up while getting kitted up. Got a mate coming around this morning to help me trim the sides to fit....

Ahhh, PLOL, (P stands for pretend)

I picked up my compression gear from Kmart. It's great. Haven't trooped in it yet, but it feels comfy. Different stores may or may not stock them, so I'd ring ahead if you have to travel that far. (Australia is obviously totally different to you though)

Ummm, I must be missing something here..??