BobbyFromBUF

Hi there, I am currently assembling a Tupperware TK NE kit that I bought few years ago. It's been a long process, but I'm finally making good progress with my build. I needed to finish my helmet for an event held annually in my city called "The World's Largest Disco". It's a great event that raises thousands of dollars every year for a local children's charity, and features amazing costumes, dancing, and music from the 70's. This year I wanted to wear my ANH Stunt TK Helmet with a vintage white tuxedo. It turned out great, and I had a blast! 12295480_10205276979387277_5092756337069340896_n by Robert Whalen, on Flickr 12313944_10208017072893221_8977884773043844093_n by Robert Whalen, on Flickr To get it to fit was a little challenging, but I just wanted to share the strategy that I ended up using in case someone else might find it helpful. I ended up drawing out patterns on EVA foam (an anti-fatigue floor mat). I tried a few things, but finally settled on this design... DSC_0479 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr In some cases I used 2 or 3 layers of foam to get the correct fit for my head shape... DSC_0480 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0490 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0491 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr The amount of foam needed for 1 layer thick of padding fits onto a square which is roughly 14"x14". The foam is relatively cheap (I purchased it at at a store called "Ollie's Bargain Outlet" for $17.99 for a 3'x6' roll.) Here is a list of the foam part dimensions if you would like to try the same technique... The two parts for the back left and right sides are roughly 3"x5" DSC_0485 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr Each of the top parts is roughly 1.5" inches wide at the widest point. The longest center piece being about 10.5". With the two side pieces being about 8.5" each. DSC_0487 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr The back center piece is roughly 3"x2". DSC_0488 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr The temple pieces have an odd shape, but ended up being roughly 2.5"x4" on one end with a curve down to about 3". DSC_0489 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr I neglected to take a photo, but the cheek pieces ended up being roughly 2.25"x1.25" with a curved pattern. All the pieces were laid inside the helmet and traced with a pencil to ensure proper placement, and then hot glued in place. I hope this can be helpful for someone out there who needs an interior helmet solution on a budget. (Edit: spelling and grammar.)

Well, after some hard thinking, I decided to use the original ears that came with my kit. I purchased from Tupperware TK, and shortly after receiving my kit I received an additional package with replacement ears. Since I have the new ears, I figured it couldn't hurt to try and shape the old ones with a heat sealing iron and heat gun. Here are the results.... DSC_0492 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0493 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0494 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0495 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0498 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr

The NE Ears come really thick to start off. I just can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong. DSC_0474 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0475 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr No matter how I push or pull, I just can't get this gap to shrink. I read a suggestion to attach the ears with the screws, use pencil marks, and then keep trimming. But, I'm obviously not understanding... DSC_0476 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0477 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr Please help! Thanks!

Hi All, Happy Thanksgiving to anyone out there celebrating... I am having a dilemma regarding my helmet. The shape of the helmet is making it extremely difficult to trim the ears. Would it be crazy of me to add an extra rivet to each side - under the ears - to snug up where the tube connects on the face to the back? I can't find any examples of anyone else doing this, but I feel like it might be my only way to get a good secure fit. Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Bobby DSC_0473 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0472 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr

I started trimming the helmet, and actually attached the cap and back together. I just noticed after staring at the Dave M Helmet that the "lines" of the eye and the front edge of the trap line up. So, I'm going to use this as a way to make sure I'm staying lined up properly.... Dave M side by side 2 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr Dave M side by side 1 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr That's not much progress, but at least its something. Well, I'm off to High School Alumni Lacrosse Game. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to do a bit more tonight. :-)

Thanks Mutter! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Now, I'm trying to figure out the positioning so I can trim. I actually bought TK4510's Basic Helmet Assembly Guide when I first ordered the armor - not realizing that the guide was for a 2 piece helmet. However, it's still extremely helpful. TK4510 mentions that the forward edge of the ear/com link should end up being between 1/2" and 3/4" from the tear. So, with this in mind, I cut the brow trim (leaving a bit extra to trim off later), and used some clamps to hold things in place. DSC_0338 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr Does the angle of the faceplate look "right". I was afraid that it looked a bit "shallow"... DSC_0339 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr So, I held the ears on, and traced the edges. I hope this is leaving the correct "S curve". DSC_0343 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0345 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr Does this seem correct? DSC_0346 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0347 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr Thanks everyone. I am really going to make a run at this thing this week. Any feedback I could get over the weekend would be very much appreciated.

Next I got out the blue tape and started taping the back n cap back together. I was trying to get some photos of the angles of the overlap. Does this look right? I'm just trying to be careful before I proceed with glue. DSC_0327 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0326 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0325 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0324 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr

So, here my helmet has sat. Taped together. Very poorly. Resting on a mannequin head for over 2 years. That is terrible, and should be a crime.... DSC_0316 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0315 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0317 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr I have had enough. I am off next week, and I am gonna put this sucker together. Part of the reason I stopped my build 2 years ago is that the NE Helmet is super "wonky". There's tons of "extra" material on every single part that needs to be trimmed before the parts can begin to resemble the shape I'd like. With that said, I yanked that blue tape off so I can better assess what I have going here. Here are a couple of shots of the faceplate separated from the cap and back... DSC_0329 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr DSC_0328 by Robert Whalen, on Flickr I noticed on some other threads that faceplates from 2 piece helmet assemblies don't generally have that thick brow bulge on the faceplate. Does this brow "bulge" serve a purpose as a guide or something? Should I just cut it off? Any direction would be super helpful. Thanks!

Can I ask if there is any trick to figuring out the "familiar s curve" and the screw hole placement? Sorry to go back to such an old topic, but I'm really stuck on this particular step.

Thank you!

Actually, now that I'm searching for it, I'm having trouble finding the Garrison Excelsior forums... Should I be looking under FISD or 501st.com or somewhere else? Thanks. Sorry for the dumb question.

I did years ago, but haven't logged on in ages. I'll make a point to do that! Thanks!

After way too long, I will be working hard on my tk during the next week. Punch list includes: assemble 3 piece helmet, trim and assemble thighs and calves, finish ab details, add shoulder straps, and connect cod/butt gap.

Thanks Sith Lord! Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk