Jump to content

I'm Batman

501st Member[501st]
  • Posts

    1,614
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by I'm Batman

  1. Have a look at Mike's videos on trooperbay.com. He explains the left/right shins really well. Basically look at your own calves and see how the leg muscles look on the inner and outer. The armor shins are the same.
  2. Just look at all the build threads and you'll see the countless builds of Resin Doopy kits, DVH, pipe builds, scratch built, real conversions, THG, pre built RS, etc. As you say, you must have a better E-11 for Centurion, but most of it is the joy of building, the thrill of completing a project, seeing it come together and seeing the final result. Me - I did a slap together Hasbro, for basic approval and trooping and now, I've nearly get everything together for a better, more rewarding build.
  3. If I was a betting man, I'd say you'll be right and won't have to move it, but if you do, then yes chicago screws, rivets, snaps are all fine to affix with. I can't/won't quote the thread right now, but my earlier research indicated any are fine. I've gone for half a snap with a washer on the inner part on mine.
  4. At least you can see the lighter side of it all. Great blaster, but start fresh with your armor purchase. And welcome to this wonderful world of the FISD!
  5. That first one may be one of the many anomolies in the movie, similar to pics of the RC suite in our costume photo references. This one clearly shows the belt fixed in the centre of the belt which is also not as per recommendations.
  6. If you do work on the TD, I you may as well swap out the screws for some black slotted screws. Other that that, a fantastic looking build! Well done.
  7. You're a funny man Tim. You should consider a change of career. On second thoughts...... LOL! I did that too on my last build. It was terrible! I'm doing all my sewing by hand this time around. An no sticky velcro. I'm also struggling with Photobucket at the moment. Is yours working ok Tim? Not sure if it's the software or my computer.....
  8. Haha! It is weird to have an assembly section AND a build threads. Assembly is probably for one off questions, build threads for a complete start to finish. I saw your question a week or two back about your helmet. Was waiting or this thread and will be watching keenly. Join the club with the ABS paste discoloration. Luckily mine is in a less obvious area. Great job with the tooths. Good luck and try to enjoy this white plastic jigsaw.
  9. Thanks for the input. I think that's just the well published weird shape of the MTK armor. Will consider Toybiz's re shaping trick at some point. I think it will look better once I pad them out too so they sit right. The length and spacing was more what I was checking on.
  10. Practice and patience. Grab some spare ABS, or paper for that matter and just practice painting straight lines. Other will probably chime in with types of brushes that may be best. I just used whatever old modelling brush I had in my paint kit.
  11. I had a buddy come around last night. He used a heat gun to bend his belt the other day. He made up a template similar to the link mentioned in Tim's thread (I think). He got a bit close and deformed one of the boxes and the overall shape of the belt. I think I'll leave mine as is! Anyway, feedback time if I can ask nicely I've got the shoulder bells snapped onto the shoulder straps. The biceps and forearms are just taped there at the moment. Personally, I think it's ok. I'm a little concerned that the ends of my forearms will rub against my painted hand guards. Thoughts welcomed..... And the left
  12. Looking fantastic Aaron. Did I see a debate about which one is more screen accurate, or don't we want to go there again? So you want the holes fully covered do you?
  13. My stars aligned today aswell. Some Doopy parts took 11 days from England to Australia! Andy's cylinders only took 9 days though, so probably comes down to the amount of time it takes them to get to the post office.
  14. And he gets to dremel/grind metal indoors at the kitchen table
  15. CRL says "minimal". I take that to means as small as possible, therefore I've just glued mine on to about where Kyle's are. I would think 1/2" (12.5mm) would be way too big??
  16. Perspex 'forks' or U shaped holders coming up from the bottom. Then you can swap it around when you feel like it, or display both sides if it's on a low table or something. I remember as a kid my dad telling me he was a cowboy when he was younger, fighting the indians. Of course I believed him, so the Battle of Endor story would be cool!
  17. I originally did mostly plates, some nylon. Nylon ones where it was curved. Nylon ones can also be handy if height makes a difference.
  18. What about some clear glass or Perspex ones coming off from the back somehow, like shelf supports, so they're basically invisible.
  19. hehe. I'm just looking at the top shelf of my bookcase. Something like that might fit there.... Hmmmm
  20. I'd keep your shoulder straps at 90deg corners. I assume you mean the ammo belt is cm away, not mm. LOL! Wait until you have the thigh glued together first. It needs to line up with the rear of the thigh, so wait to see what that size is before you trim/
  21. You want about 15mm cover strips on the forearms. I'd mark about 7/8mm on each half, then tape it together (overlapped for now) at that mark. If it looks and feels right, fits, start trimming.
  22. Looks great Chris! And when you're out trooping, you can put some fish in there!
  23. Nice painting Ron
  24. Tip from the pros Tim. Sew your shoulder snaps the right way around. Apparently it's a pain in the you know what to have to unpick the stitching, re-sew them the right way and jab yourself with a needle an extra 2 times. That's what a friend told me anyway
×
×
  • Create New...