gmrhodes13

Correct a few kits are just like this. I used JB weld to glue the pieces together, it's very strong and is able to be sanded. Rough up the areas before hand, apply the glue and once dry use automotive filler/bondo and sand.

It's always great when you see an already approved centurion make changes to fit in with new CRL's, looking forward to seeing the updates

There are a couple of pages on the main legion boards about Hyperfirm, apparently their replies to messages has been slow of late, some even have opened claims in paypal due to no response. Can't say personally if there are any issues there, I would suggest trying to contacting them in regards to your order and if you don't receive a response in an appropriate amount of time I would also consider getting a refund.

Looks like their scout armor is made out of fibreglass, be very heavy, most other makers use ABS plastic. I would highly recommend looking over at the pathfinders forum home of biker scouts. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/

Noting better than BBB's, looking forward to the progress, good luck

I contacted Anovos support as GML for some of our garrison members and asked exactly when these kits will be shipped, I didn't get an exact answer I just got a generic mail out which appears others had already received, incidentally they didn't attach any images. Looks like some will still be waiting until just before Celebration 2019: "Sorry if you did not get this update. this is only the words and dose nto inculded the cool photos Dear Valued Customer, As Summer draws to a close, we wanted to send you an informative update chock full of pictures of what we’ve done to bring you the ultimate replica set of armor. In the past, our updates have just grazed the surface of the amount of effort that’s gone into designing and coming to final creation of this armor. This update provides a broader picture of our manufacturing process and allows us to finally bring you into the last steps of our journey together. With that said, we would be remiss if we didn’t continually thank you and be 100% appreciative of the support you’ve given us over our time together. There are no words that can possibly match how we feel as a company towards you and we only hope that our final product not only matches but surpasses your expectations, as it has ours. We can say with confidence that our final product surpasses any prototype we’ve ever displayed publicly. The Summer Update We have wonderful news! The five-month process of “cutting steel” is finally over, which is typically the longest point of a manufacturing process of this nature. You may be asking yourself two things: What does that mean? Why steel? Some backstory here to give some reference: Before we made the decision to cut steel, ANOVOS manufacturing had a process of using conventional vacuum-form moulds consisted of fiberglass with steel elements. While this process takes about three months to create, the results were less than stellar when we received the first samples. Though many of the pieces were passable, it was a process that led to significant degradation over time and something we didn’t feel comfortable with due to inconsistencies throughout the run. The use of our conventional vacuum-form moulds would mean that Trooper #1 could potentially get a different product than Trooper #10,001. The biggest culprit for this was the uneven transfer of heat across complex surface curvatures particular to this armor, despite the metal elements to help conduct the heat throughout. Therefore, after careful deliberation — and much hesitation for yet another massive delay — we opted to cut moulds out of full metal and eliminate the fiberglass elements completely. That means that all the hard armor parts across the whole body. By doing so, we would get the best heat conductivity possible, thereby creating a smooth consistent surface from Trooper #1 to #10,001. The end results have been amazing and large surface warpage (particularly for larger pieces, such as the chest and abdomen) have all been eliminated. Additionally, we engineered all of the pieces of this armor to minimize final assembly time. The trade-off is, of course, the five-month delay (which is done) and another month to fine tune (where we are now). Once this fine-tuning is approved, the armor will begin manufacturing. We are delighted to share with you the pictures of our first set of ‘raw’ pulls from the molds. We are now dialing in the final critiques with the aim of even sharper armor than what you see here. As promised, we are still intending on saving you massive amounts of time by pre-trimming the excess plastic and, for those of you worried about sizing, you will still be able to appropriately size the armor to you within most standard body types. The cutting will be performed by a five-axis machine, which will ensure a clean, precision cut. (This is a feature that will be no charge to be only included in this run of the armor, as one of our many tokens of appreciation for your patience and understanding.) In addition to that, you will now have the ability to use the provided armor to tailor your build to either The Last Jedi or The Force Awakens style armor. Lastly, with this final adjustment in manufacturing, it means we will be pushing the first wave of delivery out one more season to get these final pieces out to you. We will then send out successive waves with aimed completion before Celebration 2019. We hope that by providing you with these pictures, and this more specific and detailed update, we can mitigate any concerns you have about the completion of this project. Very few of you have left this project and we cannot possibly be more indebted to you, who’ve stayed for your kindness and understanding. We hope the initial savings you had at the beginning (the final prices will be multifold higher) coupled with the time savings from the precision trim will begin to makeup for the time it took to perfect this product, and ultimately restore your excitement to when you finally receive these. Sincerest Regards, Joe Beaudoin Jr. Product Development Manager"

Just a couple of other things, your drop boxes should be in line with the ends of the belt. You have some extra velcro showing on the side of the belt which should be removed. TD clips are a little long and stick out under the belt. You have quite a large gap on your sides and I woukd suggest adding some shims to reduce this. You also are showing the top of your neck seal on the rear photo. WTF helmets have been approved in the past, perhaps the issue is the size in comparison to your armor? I would also suggest when you take your next photos to try have a blank backround without the sun shinning from behind, your GWL would welcome that A bit of tweaking and I'm sure you'll get there. Good luck

I believe there is a minimum post amount needed before posting in that section, from memory it is 15 but I could be wrong

Just a tip don't go too small, make sure the sizing of your forearms matches the sizing of the rest of the armor or they could look out of place. My ATA kit has ridges so a there is a minimum size and I have a lot of room in there for my tiny Trex hands, even had to add a little foam inside so they don't roll around

Great work, only one thing worse than waiting for glue to dry, it's waiting for BBB's to arrive

I use an Aker 1506 and an Icomm like many others, no issues with the Aker after 6 years but I did have to replace the back up battery in the Icomm. A really good system and if you add a speaker output to your blaster you can also run a cable to that into the Aker and really get some blaster sounds blaring (or a baton, laser ax )

You will find a lot gets sold on eBay which may be of a lesser standard that what is required for 501st approval, as already suggested head to the clone troopers forum and do a little research there, research is the key to this hobby and just because something is easy to find doesn't mean that it is any good

For the second time

It's very hard not to get some glue coming out from the sides of cover strips no matter how careful you are. I find using a soft cloth is good to get it off on flat pieces, on the edges I use pieces of scrap abs, gets in to the corners nicely. For any stubborn bits some polish normally will help to get it off

A few more bits done. TD painted and belt holes drilled and corners cut. Sniper plate and ammo strips attached, also glued in last of snap plates. Shoulder straps glued. Also started sanding the ABS paste on the kidney, a couple of areas needed a little more paste, back to sanding tomorrow.

Nice work, looks like you won't have any issues, good luck with approval

As Tony suggested always test glue before you apply, some can cause distortion with heat and for more quick setting glues they can crack when being flexed. Definitely feather/sand if there is a difference in thickness, do this wet with wet and dry sandpaper, you can add a little dishwashing liquid as it helps stop clogging the sandpaper and glides easier. Star with a courser grits then finer until you reach 1200 or ultrafine, you can then use an automotive cutting compound to bring back the shine.

Congratulations trooper

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Very nice, every piece adds up in the end

A little more achieved, Velcro and rear cover strips glued on. Jerry managed to find some 60mm OD pipe, very hard to find these days, cut to correct length and sanding the ends so the caps fit nicely. Last of the inner strips glued in. ABS paste mixed up and been sitting for a few hours and ready to apply, messy stuff but most will be sanded off.

Cheers

I like to use foam, I have a thin clover leaf piece in the top and a larger piece each side before my ears, keeps the helmet on snug and doesn't move when you shake your head. The foam is attached via Velcro so I can take out and wash when needed, the sweat does tend to build up For painting I use a combination of a fine tip and a square tip depending on what area I'm doing. Template can be found here

Cross fingers you receive approval but I don't think you'll need them, well done.

Looking smart, stay on target