gmrhodes13

Many still are happy to wait and nobody is suggesting everyone pulls out, it would just be nice if for once Anovos could get their act together and actually tell the truth on when they will deliver this long awaited product, many have already missed trooping at one movie and don't want to miss the last one in this trilogy

Nice work trooper, just watch the closing of your calves, your left is overlapped a little high on the back photo.

I wouldn't hold you up for basic approval. but you'll need to move it for the higher levels

They do look a little low, have you tried the belt on while wearing the armor? it can change how it hangs, you'll find the belt tilts down towards the front when wearing. You can see in this image that the plastic section of the belt just sits on the ab plate bottom. And you are correct, there should be a small gap between the belt and drop boxes, just allows for some movement

I would suggest heading to Spec Opps, they may have more information. First search there revealed: Google images is a good search option too: https://www.google.com/search?q=rogue+one+dlt19&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiWgfO049zdAhXFy7wKHQMfCdkQ_AUIDigB&biw=1234&bih=640

Pick one Could be a bit hard to make out since it was repainted "This helmet is stripped of its original paint and was re-sprayed white; the re-sprayed finish has been partially sanded in preparation for a more comprehensive restoration that was never completed"

You can loop a piece of elastic through the top loop on the boot, then add a snap to it and another on a snap plate to the inside of the shin. Just helps when you bend your knees to keep the shin down on your boot, also stops rotation

If you want to have the ends on the TD removable you can wrap some tape around the end of the pipe and then place the heated caps on, once it's cooled down you can remove the caps, then the tape and the caps will slip on easily. Some add a dab of E6000 to secure them, I added a couple of angled ABS brackets to the insides of the end caps then ran elastic with Velcro on the ends to the brackets, can be a place to store some things, I normally carry my Working With Children Card in there in case I need to present it at an event (it's local law when you are with children that you hold a WWCC).

Lots of great info on different armor makers in the Getting Started section, specifically here Research is the key to this hobby so you have some reading ahead. Yes you can find kits on eBay and Facebook but unless it's on the vetted sellers list you may find you won't reach 501st approval. The 501st has a base for costume approval, for Stormtroopers go here and pick which version you are interested.

A trick is to line them up and hold them together with some painters tape, then run the tape inside the back the full length, this will hold them together and you can then remove the tape on the outside and glue the cover strip on then hold again with either clamps, magnets, painters tape or a combination of all three

Yer and what did you expect them to say I know A LOT of people who have pulled out. How many cancelled runs of helmets and armor have they done now, anyone remember the Death Trooper, they don't make anything unless there is money in the bank and looks like that money is quickly running away.

The Alpha Beta kits join on the top edge of the back plate, there is a strengthening piece under neath with glued to both. Because of the join it must then be filled and painted, something I asked Anovos about multiple times when they said the new kits wouldn’t need painting, could never get a straight answer on how they achieved that and what they changed the only reply was “they won’t need paint”. If it is indeed the hinge system on the shoulders then it would need gluing and filling so paint would need applying. You can only vacform on pieces that have an outwards tapper, you can’t pull down and onwards or you will never get the pulled piece off the mold. Hence they came up with the join hinge (if in fact it is a hinge). You would think with ex 501st members involved in their business that they would know about the CRL’s and how costumes need to replicate those on screen. You would also think with all the issues will late delivery on the beta kits that they would of learned but no, their customer service is even worse. im not sure why they won’t come clean and inform everyone exactly what the hold up is and when they will actually be delivered. You can’t keep stringing people along, they will only take so much. i can see Anovos having a sale on these kits once they finally become available, by the sounds of all the cancellations they’ll be stuck with a lot of them.

I would check with your GML, in the CRL it does say flat soles so he may not allow them due to the ridges on the soles.

Great work, the tube stripes should be a full decal with a white background! You can just make out the white background in these screen used helmet images. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall be decals (with the correct ESB details), no hand-painting or decals that replicate hand painted. Good luck

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

Game references only in the following: Also there is the longer belt with squares closer to the end, it is a game references so if we wanted to change the knee ammo strip to game accurate perhaps the belt should too?, I would suggest to have the option for both, belt and knee. I'm with Randy and Arthur on the knee it would be nice to not stick out from other OTTK's even though it would be more accurate to use the game version. Holster- Green Thigh- Purple Belt- Purple

What I did was use clear red acrylic 3mm thick, on one end grind a slot big enough so the led will fit in then hot glue in place. On one of the flat sides I glued chrome decal sheet I had from another project, (I presume tinfoil would also work), this helps to reflect the light outwards and illuminates the red acrylic, you can’t see the led as it’s hidden on the end. You can can see the diffusion in my first F-11D video:

Thanks for your feedback guys, it’s appreciated.

It’s been pointed out that those images are from a MOD so I have disregarded those as references, that’s why the ESB/ ROTJ handguards have been removed, also the 4 ab buttons and the ROTJ belt rivets/ no square covers options. Going on just game reference the belt boxes are either white or they don’t have them at all, once I’m back at the computer I’ll upload the references I have of those.

Did a test fitting and arms and legs are fine and can all be trimmed to standard minimum size, ab/kidney will need some side shims attaching. First to make the shims and rear panels to attach them to the kidney section. Making sure there is as little gap as possible. Using JB Weld, worked great on my FOTK so shims should hold just nicely. Glued in place and once dry will grind a V down the centre of the gap and fill with some ABS paste. Rest of the pieces trimmed and cover strips attached, also managed to glue on Velcro to the shins and cover strip. Now to wait for everything to dry once again.

Looking good, just try to get the ridge sections as close as you can as some of these aren't covered. You can also add a little scrap ABS behind the ridges if there is a gap Glue away

Looks good to me

Should be Humbrol 14 French Blue Gloss

Nice work trooper, just a couple of things, it looks like the corners on your belt have been rounded off, it's not a requirement for L2 but it would look much better if they are cut off at an angle and it's a quick fix Also what blue did you use for your ab buttons, looks very dark?

Perhaps you could save as a PDF and upload to the forums server