gmrhodes13

Nice work trooper, congratulations and welcome to the Centurion ranks

Top looks ok but you can see there is some paint on the bottoms of the gum middle couple of teeth Some nice screen used references can be found here http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm

Especially for those of us with skinny arms and legs, if you can fill the armor then do away with the return edges

Great work will be a good guide for others to follow, if their kits every turn up. It's a shame Anovos changed some details for better screen accuracy like the longer front yoke and the bottom ab tabs (which can't really be seen) but then let obviously things slip by. You are well on top of this though

Nice work trooper, if I could advise a couple of tweaks: Try to have the same gaps on your elbows/wrists, also rotate shins to centre Belt appears loose and on a bit of an angle, you also have some excess material, most stop at the ends of the TD DO's may also request close up of your sides with arms raised. Good luck with the application

Don't panic there's a few outstanding applications at the moment I'm sure one of the DO's will be here soon, hang tight trooper

You can add a little dish washing liquid to the water as it will help the sandpaper glide and reduce clogging.

Congrats on approval, I also have pouch attached to strap, gives you a lot more room under the helmet

Nice work, look like you have an issue with the butt plate pushing backwards, may need tighter strapping or I came up with a v tab to glue behind to stop the plate shifting backwards May need a little heat on your left calf to help close the gap at the rear. You could also remove the extra material from the belt closure the normally stop at the end of the TD. Knee sniper plate could come up a little you have a lot of lower ridge showing, you may also want to try bring your thighs up a little more, everything appears to be touching at your knees and they will catch, perhaps some foam behind the front of the sniper plate to bring it away form the thigh. Also rotate your left thigh so the cover strip is central.Forearms could come down a little also to give you a little more room at the elbows. Ideally tube stripes are a pencil width from the cheek but not a big issue for basic. Once again nice work and good luck with approval

Nothing better than BBB's, good luck with the build

Nice work trooper, just a couple of things you could adjust before the DO's get here: Drop boxes don't align with the end of the plastic belt in a few photos, a dab of E6000 behind on the straps can hold them in place. You can also notice in the above image that your ab rivets are not quite aligned, you may need to adjust for centurion. Belt closure is on an angle also TD could rotate back a little to show circle detail Good luck with approval.

Something to remember is many armor makers do this in their spare time and real life comes first and although unfortunate not to receive a reply people do get busy, ill or even go on holidays it's not uncommon not to hear from a maker for weeks so hang tight if you can I'm sure you'll get a response in time.

Getting started section, The various types of armor and where to find them

Off to a good start, looking forward to the progress

Thanks again for all your work.

https://www.metalearth.com/starwars/first-order-treadspeeder

Sorry to hear the loss of Joseph but real life comes first and foremost, thanks for your service to the shiny white community it has been a pleasure working with you.

No that's why you rough up the surface so it sticks to it, lots of other videos out there that was just one that came up in the search.

Because of the curve I would rough up the inside area with coarse sandpaper then apply resin and fibreglass matting, it will conform to the shape better than adding strips of ABS and glue behind. You could then fill the outside cracks with abs paste https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

That image of TD is what I edited for the TKC CRL. Trooping this weekend but will look for boots and others suitable for the CRL at a later stage.

I use a heat gun as it does give a lot more heat but I practiced quite a lot with scraps first, it's very easy to go from slightly pliable to molten mess in the blink of an eye. It was the only way I could give enough bend to the back of the calves to get them to sit flat. Best of luck.

Actually just out of interest and looking through one of the CRL threads about ROTJ in 2018 and kidney/posterior armor section was posted but didn't have the side rivets then? must have been added at a later time. Kidney & Posterior Armor For 501st approval: A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. A separate kidney/posterior armor is not allowed - the kidney and posterior are combined/fused to a single plate/one piece. The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps. For level two certification (if applicable): The edges of the hip area should be rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB butt plate). For level three certification (if applicable): There are no visible side rivets on the kidney plate, unlike ANH/ESB suits. There are no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the Posterior Armor tab. Here's a couple of references I posted in that thread. And ROTJ TD image for CRL Also holster image should really be updated too as it's showing ANH version. I'll have a look around and see if there are some other clean images for the CRL.

Be nice to see some images updated too which have been talked about many a time but seem to get missed, correct ROTJ TD and white sole boots, that image in particular catches a few people out, I'm sure there would be a few others too.