gmrhodes13

Great work, I'm sure it will give you more room to move

There are no issues with using chigao screws or rivets, I use snaps behind so I can remove the holster at windy troops where we don't use weapons. The straps do sit behind the belt so you could drop the straps down until the hole already punch stops before the edge of the belt, but how you have it now really shouldn't be an issue. the billgram image I updated recently to give the options in positioning, for a long time the image only gave a standard positioning which wasn't a majority of what is seen in ANH, there is a thread here if you are interested:

A good tip is to use nuts and bolts first as it gives you the ability to remove and re-drill holes if you need to move the pieces around, rivets are very hard to get out once set in. Tilting the faceplate or backplate forward or backwards can adjust brow height but also can affect the size of the neck opening. Each helmet make have their own quirks so don't be too hard on yourself, we can all make mistakes but hopefully you can still make this work.

A slow process but worth it in the end, coming along nicely

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34332-cjdesigns-doopy-doos-build/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31731-esb-e11greebies/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32086-my-resin-esb-blaster/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/5890-esb-blaster-greeblies/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22585-rs-propmasters-pugman-background-stuntpromotionalsnowtrooper-resin-blaster/, restored by gmrhodes13

Many thanks Craig, it's not too bad, unfortunately the editing side of things have to be staff as we have access to the threads but if you do find any threads which have watermarked images please post a link in this thread. We are trying to go through section by section so it doesn't get confusing to keep track, I would say we have taken a big piece out of the pie so all being well it won't be too much longer.

Very nice work. A block of foam either side before your ears is great for holding the helmet in place, so you don't get the "bobble head" wobble while moving your head.

It makes a lot of difference for viewing if you can get right into the inner inside corners of they eyes. Nice work in the teeth

Yes Mark I know but he posted a search link not his actual profile link

You have a larger gap between the bicep and forearms on one side, you could either bring the forearms up on the left or lower on the other side to match, have a look at the rear photo.

Looking good so far, a few references for you

I think for basic approval you should be fine but it may affect higher level clearance. You may need to replace but I'd wait until a DO chimes in, or you can send them a PM to check, @justjoseph63 @TKSpartan or @shashachu

Nice work, just a couple of things Your biceps are almost coming out from under your shoulder bells so I suggest bringing the biceps upwards, this will also give you a little more room at the elbows. TD boxes are being pushed forwards, you may need to lengthen the elastic so they sit straight. You have a gap under your thigh ammo strip which you could move upwards. There is also a step on your left thigh lower ridge, normally you fit the thighs together so the bottom ridges align Small gap between your left shin closure at the top You may need to add some shims on the sides of your ab/kidney Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wideAlso the tip "han" snap is a little far away from the corner Decals do not fully fill the trap areas, there is a gap around them, this would be more for EIB Looks like you still have some return edge on the sides of your TD panel as they are rounded on the ends A few teaks and I'm sure you will do fine. Good luck

Here's a few threads which may be of help With your thigh ammo strip you went a little large with the curve and rivets are a little close to the corner Good luck and hope you make it

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33798-legal-sterling-conversion-in-cali/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40066-thg-props-ripoff/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41577-my-e11-wip/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45091-cjdesigns-esb-pugman-promo-blaster-build-ddpp/, restored by gmrhodes13

Nice work, just make sure you even out your gaps, biceps to forearms are a little out on the rear image, you could tweak the gap a little more and reduce the gap at the forearm to gloves. Should straps are still sitting up so you may have to curve them a little flatter. I tried a chin strap on my first helmet and it was horrible, kept digging in to my neck so I did away with it, know I use two thick rectangles of foam, one either side of the head in front of the ears, it's thick enough to hold the helmet on the head tight and doesn't allow the "bobble effect".

All I could suggest is foam or pepkura builds, there are a few builds on the internet you may be able to follow, check Google https://www.google.com/search?q=pepakura+stormtrooper&sxsrf=ALeKk035jnn9BRd50Dyjm8V-Av2sxAryGw:1603318348095&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjX8OWk2sbsAhUj63MBHeLQCswQ_AUoAXoECA8QAw&biw=1255&bih=643 Here you will find pretty much all armor is at least 501st approved so you won't find any under $200, this is not a cheap hobby to get into but once you have spend the money you will have it for a long time, there is always the option of on-selling too

Nice work and well documented

I use automotive polish and compound very heavier scratches, no issues from their use and gives a nice shine.

Hello and welcome, lots of great build threads to follow here and plenty of knowledgable people reading and waiting to offer feedback and assistance. If you have ever put a plastic model kit together then this is just the same. It can be a very rewarding challenge building your own armor as you take pride in your achievement. Yes you can purchase a ready to wear but you may find you will still need to do a little work to get everything sitting just right. Either way there are many who have purchased RS armor either way and the majority have had little issue. Good luck which ever you decide.

The original armor seen in ANH had very little return edge, I prefer the look with some return. Chest plates trim lines sides and top look fine, bottom I made mine consistent width all the way along from the ends. Nice work on the forearms, if you have any overhang you can angle the cover strips at the elbows if needed Some references

Very nice looking kit

I just tried an image on your Centurion thread and I can save the images using the new way, I noticed you did your EIB. If you can't access let me know and I can save what you need

Could be your browser? I'm using Edge on laptop