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Moin moin Luca! Maybe I should explain my thinking here: I cut the edges to fit the white base material and not the overhanging strings, as that makes more sense to me. Correct me if I´m wrong there. I just realized how little sense that makes... Well now I need to find a solution. Position 1 | 2: The 45° meet the point of the outer edge of the white base material (not the overhanging strings) Well at least when everything lays straight it should Position 3: The inner edge (as explained above) was shorter because of that the 45° cut is bigger. Position 4: On this end there is non of the overhanging strings which makes the cut really short. I do hope that makes the slightest amount of sense. And of course I will try to change is accordingly with the CRL.

Opened up the vent. I was going to use a black sticker but decided to go for the more authentic look I used a new razor blade to make the cuts then used some force and heat to bend the flap in. I also sanded some of he edges off to make the gap a bit larger. Im glad I did this. I believe I just need to use gaffers tape behind this vent.

Thank you very much Joseph! I´m thankful for all the advice I can get, especially if it´s so detailed. The Belt should be finished: I´m still not sure if I trimmed enough on the left eye, the right seems fine however: Everytime I sand down more I feel like it´s enough, but after about 5 min. it looks off again...

Welcome to the FISD.

The center hole on the muzzle is 11mm inner diameter.

Before we go into painting, here the muzzle mod. Front of the muzzle was a recessed design by reasons I was unable to understand so it was filled with epoxy putty and sanded clean. Bolts were also replaced with ones from the hardware store. May not be the correct knurled bolt but who would know? I'm certainly happy !

Couldn't have said it better, Eric! I have trooped many times with the fine folks in the GA Garrison (as recently as a few weeks ago) and you won't find a nicer group of people.. (well, except for here at the FISD, of course).

Welcome to the FISD, Jonathan! Lots of great info. given so far, and know that we are here to assist you every step of the way so never be shy about asking us anything. I know what you mean about the OCD thing.. believe me. It took me 3 months to build my first set of armor, but as someone very wise reminded me way back when "It's a marathon, not a sprint". Purchasing a set of commissioned armor is fine and dandy for many, but often there are little nuances that need to be fixed/adjusted. We can help, of course. Building your own takes time and patience, but in the end you will have a custom tailored costume that fits you to a tee. Plus, if there are ever any issues you know how to fix/repair them! Best of luck on your white armor journey!

Looking good Steve, very sorry to hear about your family member.

Oh my goodness Steve, I am so sorry for your loss.

Sorry for your loss Steve ....

So sorry to hear of your loss

Sorry for your loss. No words are sufficient for that. However, that's a brilliant way of doing the elastic! Mine are just tied together...

Those six weeks are going to be the highlight of my year, with the finale appropriately also landing on my birthday! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the bolt made from the left over aluminum pipe. A cut of made and pipe squeezed so that it would fit snugly inside the newly made receiver. Holes were then made to allow the Blast-FX cables to go through the receiver and bolt to the grip and magazine well. Screw holes were also made which would fix the grip to the bolt and then the bolt to the receiver. Reason for this was that Asahi's grip is designed to be inserted into the opening in the receiver and fixed inside, not directly to the receiver bottom. Holes for the cables etc were actually enlarged further from these photos. This shows how the bolt is inserted and fixed within the receiver while allowing the Blast-FX cable to pass through. Switch for the trigger can be seen fixed to the bolt within the receiver. Here's the rail made from an aluminum flat bar from the local hardware store. I see that the connection to the rear sight is not ideal but will do for now. T-Tracks were made from 1.2mm styrene plastic. Made plastic strips and glued them as I saw fit. It was then heated with a lighter and bent to fit the receiver holes. Could have tried to get more accurate T-tracks but will do for now. Magazine well connected to the receiver. The magazine well is made of plastic. Since plastic and aluminum receiver would probably not glue together so well, I bolted a metal plate to the outer side of the receiver and glued the well to this metal plate to achieve a stronger connection. Hengstler counter was DIY'd from styrene plates. This would hold the lipo battery and the main counter LED for the Blast FX. Rear end of the counter was purposely kept open and attached with a small magnet so that the battery can be replaced for charging. Original Asahi's magazine was replaced with a DIY'd one made from styrene plates. And here are all the parts ready for painting. Almost there !